


A TOUR 



THROUGH SOME PARTS OF 



FRANCE, SWITZERLAND, 



SAVOY, 
GERMANY AND BELGIUM, 



DURING THE SUMMER AND AUTUMN OF 



1814 






BY THE 

HON. RICHARD BOYLE BERNARD, F. M. 



Majora minorane famx ? hor. 

Say are they less or greater than report ? 



PHILADELPHIA : 
PUBLISHED BY EDWARD EARLE, 

No. 145, CHESNUT-S TREET. 



Joseph M. San4ersQ]V.Pr| 



i^»i 




}0 






TO HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS 
THE PRINCE REGENT. 

Sir, 

Permit me to offer my most respectful thanks 
to Your Royal Highness, for the honor you have con- 
ferred upon me, by permitting the following pages 
to be inscribed to Your Royal Highness. 

I beg at the same time to express my congratula- 
tions to Your Royal Highness on the late glorious 
events, which have distinguished Your Royal High- 
ness's Government, which have restored to England 
the blessings of universal Peace, and will render the 

present sera ever memorable in History. 
I have the honor to be, 
With the highest Respect, 
Sir, 
Your Royal Highness's 

Obliged and most obedient Servant, 
R. R. BERNARD. 



ffj 



Had the following Pages required the exertion 
either of superior judgment, or of abstruse research, 
the Author is not sufficiently vain to have submitted 
them to the notice of the Public. 

They are therefore not recommended to the peru- 
sal of the critical reader ; as in fact, they contain mere- 
ly the hasty observations suggested by the scenes he 
visited in the course of his Tour, together with a few 
occasional remarks, which he thought might be ac- 
ceptable to the generality of readers: since notwith- 
standing the late increase of travellers, the numbers 
are still very great, who, being prevented by business, 
or deterred by the inconveniences of travelling, from 
visiting the Continent, might be disposed to pardon 
some inaccuracies, should they meet with a small 
portion either of amusement or information, 



CONTENTS, 



CHAP. I. 

PACEn 

Introduction — On the opening of the Continent — Depart- 
ure from London — Arrival in France — Different ap- 
pearance of things — Large bonnets — Custom-house and 
passports — Of travelling in France — French dinners— 
Abbeville — Beauvais — Vines — Chantilly ; its ruined 
appearance — St. Denis and its Abbey ...... 1 

CHAP. II. 

Of the approach to Paris — General appearance of that 
city — Its bridges — Is inferior in comfort to London — 
Settled at an hotel — Population of Paris — Its markets 
— Badly supplied with water — Of its various divisions 
and their inhabitants — Palais Royal — Gamblers — Po- 
lice — English papers — Rule to find one's way through 
Paris — The Tuilleries — The Louvre — Plans of im- 
provement 14 

CHAP. Ill* 

Visit to the Gallery of the Louvre and Museum — To the 
Luxemburg— To theRoyal Library— To the Palais des 
Beaux Arts — To the church of Notre Dame— To the 
Pantheon— Protestant Church and Congregation— Cf 



Vlll CONTENTS. 

PAGE. 

the number of English in Paris — Column in the Place 
Vendome — Gobelin Manufactory — Post Office — Bo- 
tanic Garden — Lady and her Dog — Story of Dr. Moore 
— Of the Character of the Parisians — Their Loquacity 
— Of the Legislative Body — Heat of the Weather — 
Champs Elysees — Quarter of St. Antoine — Of the Re- 
volution — Of the Boulevards — Of the Restaurateurs^ — 
Of Ladies frequenting Coffee-Houses, &c 28 

CHAP. IV. 

The Invalids — Elevation of different Buildings — Buona- 
parte desirous of Eclat — Champ de Mars — Place de 
Grenelle — Of the Plan of General Mallet and his Exe- 
cution — Visit to the Museum of French Monuments — 
Infidelity of its Promoters — Of Colbert — Gardens of 
Tivoli — Great Numbers of Military Officers in Public 
Places — Of the Capture of Paris by the Allies — View 
of Paris from Montmartre — Vanity of the French — 
Their Love of Novelty — The Emperor Alexander's 
Entry into Paris — Of the Establishment of M. Dela- 
croix — At the Tuilleries — Of the King — His regard for 
England — France still unsettled — Advice of Galba to 
Pis — Curious Glass Stair Case — Of the French The- 
atres, and their Italian Opera — Number of Bureau 
d'Ecrivains 43 

CHAP. V. 

Visit to the Royal Palaces— St. Cloud— St. Cyr— Malmai- 
son — Versailles — Its Formality — Accuracy of Pope's 
Description of the Old Style of Decoration — Compari- 
son of Windsor and Versailles— City of Versailles 



CONTENTS. -IX 

PAGE. 

greatly reduced — Trianon — Sevres — Porcelain Manu- 
facture — Barrier of Passy — Of the Harvest — Castle of 
Vincennes — Few private Carriages at Paris — Great 
Numbers of Fiacres and Cabriolets — Attend at the 
Foreign Office for Passports to leave Paris — Arrive at 
Fontainbleau — Memorable for the Abdication of Buo- 
naparte — Reflections on the Captivity and Character of 
the Pope — Reflections on Buonaparte — At Montereau; 
Battle near the Town — Sens — Auxerre — Description 
of the French Diligence — Dinners, &c 56 

CHAP. VI. 

At Avalon — Public Promenades — Number of Beggars — 
Villages and Country Houses more numerous in Vine 
than in Corn Countries — Farming in this District — 
Land Tax and Customs of Descent — Dijon — A large 
and handsome City — Its Public Buildings — Company 
in the Diligence increased by the arrival of two French 
officers — Their political opinions — Advantage of the 
Diligence — Arrival at Dole — Battle near Auxonne — 
Genlis — Poligny — Vin d'Arbois — Woods, but without 
Birds — Moray — English breakfast — Resemblance to 
North Wales— Magnificent view of the lake of Geneva 
— Excellent roads made by Buonaparte — Visit to Fer- 
ney — Description of Geneva — View from its Cathedral 
— Its manufactures— Population — Territory— Determi- 
nation to visit the Alps; and not to go into Italy . . 71 

CHAP. VII. 

Departure for Charaouny — Bonneville — Valley of Cluse 

Cascade d'Arpennas— St. Martin— Extravagant bill 

Proceed on mules— Their astonishing safety— River 



CONTENTS. 

PAGE, 

Arve — Pont de Chevres— Cascade of Chede — Extrava- 
gance of English travellers very prejudicial — Lake of 
Chede — Servoy and its mines — Visited by the empress 
Maria Louisa — Glaciers des Bossons — Definition of 
Glacier — Of the valley and village of Chamouny — 
Guides — Politics of the Savoyards — State of taxation 
— Ascent of Montanvert — Magnificent and awful spec- 
tacle of the Mer de Glace — Height of various moun- 
tains, compared with Mont Blanc — Simile from Pope 
— Return to Chamouny — Larch and fir mixed on these 
vast mountains — Their productions.- — The valley con- 
tinually threatened with avalanches ....... 84 

CHAP. VIII. 

Leave Chamouny — Delightful situation of Valorsine— - 
Festival there — Of the Savoyard peasants — Anecdote 
from M. de Saussure — Country difficult to travel 
through — Trient — Magnificent view from the Fourcle 
— The French not so much disliked in the Valais as 
their cruelty deserved — Castle of la Rathia— Martigny 
— Unsuccessful attempt of two English gentlemen to 
ascend Mom Blanc — Less adventurous, we did not 
ascend Mount St. Bernard — Cascade of the Pisse 
Vache — Number of idiots and goitrous persons in the 
Valais — Opinion of Mr Coxe on the subject — Opinion 
of M. de Saussure — St. Maurice — Its strong position — 
Roman bridge and antiquities — Passports demanded 
here—Different colour of the Rhone here and at 
Geneva 98^ 

CHAP. IX. 

Bex — Industry of the inhabitants of this country — Their 



eONTENTS. Xi 

PAGE. 

cottages and wandering lives — Salt springs — Aigle — 
Growth of corn — Villeneuve — Agitated state of the 
lake — Labours of the inhabitants often destroyed by 
the fall of rocks — Chillon — Clarens — Vevay — Magnifi- 
cent view of its church — Of general Ludlow — Lausanne 
— Its singular situation — Its antiquity — Its cathedral 
— View from the church yard — Population &. manufac- 
tures — French manners prevail here — Gibbon — Pope 
Felix V. a singular character — Reformation — Morges 
— Festivity there — Rolle — Its Spay — Country seats — 
Delightful scene from the garden of its castle in the 
evening — Nyon — Chateau de Pranqui — Joseph Buona- 
parte — Vines — Swiss artillery — Copet — Anecdote of 
Mde. de Stael — Versoi — Return to Geneva .... 110 

CHAP. X. 

On the introduction of history into tours — Early govern- 
ment of Geneva — Reformation — Alliance with Berne 
and Zurich — A few laws peculiar to Geneva — Theatre 
— Town hall — Permission obtained to reside at Geneva 
— Lodging procured in consequence — Fortifications of 
Geneva not devoid of utility — Views from the ram- 
parts — Maintenance of the allied troops very expen- 
sive to Geneva — Regret of the Geneveseat the destruc- 
tion of some ancient avenues by them — Meet a person 
who gives a melancholy account of the state of Geneva 
under the French — State of society — Fete de naviga- 
tion — Dress, &c. — Epigrame by a prince of Hesse — 
Rousseau — Voltaire — Raynal — Remarks of a Savoyard 
peasant — The college of Geneva — The Library — Of 
Calvin — Water works — Society of arts — Corn magazine 
— Churches, service, &c. at Geneva 123 



XU CONTENTS. 

PAGE- 

CHAP. XI. 

Excursion to the Perte du Rhone — Magnificent specta- 
cle which it affords — Rise of the Rhone — Hope gardens 
Malt liquor badly made — Climute of Geneva — Of Swit- 
zerland in general — Opinion of Haller — Soil, grain and 
population of Switzerland — Quantities of cattle — Va- 
rious plants— Visit to a watch-maker's warehouse — 
Its elevated situation — Great ingenuity, but want of 
what in England would be thought good taste — Circles 
of Genevese — Introduction to a French gentleman who 
had twice escaped the guillotine — Walks and rides — 
Junction of the Rhone and Arve — Coligny — Carrouge 
—St. Julian — Battle there — Inferiority of the Austrian 
troops to the French — French politics — Empress Ma- 
ria Louisa — Lord Castlereagh at Geneva .... 136 

CHAP. XII. 

Regret at leaving Geneva — Lake of Joux — Coponex — 
Robbers— Lassera— Curious separation of a rivulet — 
Orbe — Face of the country — Price of land — Yverdun — 
Sea view — Spa — Anecdote of a conductor — Game — 
Bridge of Serrier — Neufchatel, said to resemble Na- 
ples — Description of its territory — Anecdote respect- 
ing the religion of Landeron — David Riri — Sketch of 
the history of Neufchatel—- Competitors for its sove- 
reignty—Lake of Bienne— Island of St. Pierre— Singu- 
lar government of Bienne — Great change on passing 
the Pont de Thiel— Charge of rapacity against the 

» Swiss— Pleasant travelling — Extensive view from Jule- 
mont — Agriculture — Arberg . 144 



C0KTEX1S. X11I 

TAGE. 

CHAP. XIII. 

Morat, famous forKirschwasser — monument commemo- 
rating" the defeat of the Burgundians removed by the 
French — Its inscription — Seedorf — View of the Island 
of St. Pierre— Beauty of the distant view of Berne — 
Its interior also handsome — Its fortifications — Stags 
and Bears kept in the trenches — Public Library — Bo- 
tanic garden — Chemists' and Bakers' shops — Convicts 
chained in the streets — Beautiful public walks — Go- 
vernment of Berne — Opinion of Pope — Excursions to 
Hofwyl and Hyndlebanck — Extent of the Canton of 
Berne — Its population, productions, See. &c. — State of 
the Clergy — Departure from Berne — Village of Worb 
— Saw mill — Bleach greens — Care which the Swiss 
take of their horses — Sumiswald — Little wooden Inn 
— Zell— Castle of Haptalla-— Irrigation-- -Beautiful situ- 
ation of Lucerne- --Its melancholy interior-- -General 
Pfiffer's model— Beautiful lake— Mount Pilate and Ri- 
gi — Visit two classic spots, and the small Canton--- 
Gersau— Intolerance — Lake and Canton of Zug— Swiss 
honey— Magnificent view of Zurich, described by Zim- 
merman—Considerations on the difference between the 
Swiss Cantons, &c. 156 

CHAP. XIV. 

Zurich — Its interior not answerable to its distant appea- 
rance — Population, buildings, &c Dinner at the Table 
d'Hote — Excursion on the Lake— Country and Villages, 
near Zurich — Winter there — Cascade of Lauffen— Its 
magnificent effect— Cyder — Bad vintage-- Schaff hau- 
sen — Its bridge — Population — Laws — Manufactures* 
&.C.— View of Mount Bunken— Chapsigve cheese— 
Swiss tea— Set out in the Diligence with a Doctor <ai 

c 



xiv 00xVt£nts. 

PACE 

Leipzig 1 — His uncommon love of smoking 1 — Civility, 
dress, &c. of the Germans— Deutlingen — Pass the Da- 
nube — Taste of the Germans for music, preferable to 
the political arguments of the French — Passports — 
Subdivisions of Germany — Trade — Posts well conduct- 
ed — Accident at Bahlingen — House of Hohenzollern. 170 

CHAP. XV. 

Tubing-en — Its University — Different from ours — Agree 
to post to Frankfort — Of German posting, and dinners 
— Feather-beds — Stoves — Stutgard — A handsome city. 
Palace, its decorations — Industry of the Queen — Coun- 
cil chamber — Royal stables — Garrison composed of 
handsome troops — Palace at Ludwigsburg — Waggons 
and traffic on the road — Heilbron — Escape from being 
overturned — Sinzheim— Cossack arrives there — Heidle- 
berg — Its castle — Venerable in ruins — The Inn — Rich 
country — Quantity of potatoes — Manheim — Regularly 
built, but much deserted — Th^ Palace in decay — 
W alks— Darmstadt — Unfurnished and ill situated — Pa= 
lace — Handsome gardens — Frankfort a magnificent 
city — Inns — Opulence of its merchants— Population — 
Jews — Gates and fortifications — Cassino — Villas — Or- 
chards — Hochst — Inscription — Hochheim — <Rhingau 
Wines— Mayence — Its strength — Handsome only at a 
distance — Its bridge— Cathedral — Population — Expor- 
tation of corn — Large cabba ge 181 

CHAP. XVI. 

Embark on the Rhine — Political rhapsodies ef two 
Frenchmen — Be aitiful scenery— Guiph of Bingerlock— 
Blighted state of the vines — Most distressing to the 
ihhabftants-~Boppart 'God save the kihg'— Bonfires-— 



OONTENTS. XV 

PAGE. 

Size of Paris and London — St. Goar — Coblentz — Royal 
Saxon guards — Ruins oi Ehrenbreitstein — Ai.derrach 
— The Devil's House — Lowdersdorf — Linz — Bonn — 11- 
hlmthations, balls, &c — -End oi' picturesque scenery- 
Boat driven on shore — Walk to Cologne — A vast and 
gloomy city — Simile of Dr. Johnson's — Few country 
houses on the Rhine — Rubens — His excellence as a 
painter and his great modesty — Juliers — Aix la Cha- 
pelle — Its antiquity — Waters — Pleasant Situation- 
Population not equal to its extent — Burscheid — Manu- 
factures of cloth, &c. — Cathedral — Sunday ill observed 
— Liege— A large and extremely dirty city — Book- 
sellers — Cutlery — Distress of the manufacturers — 
Thieves — B A money — Expeditious public carriage- 
Axiom of Rousseau— St. Tron — Chimes — Tirlemont, 
its much reduced manufactures 195 

CHAP. XVII. 

Population of the Netherlands — Louvain — Its public 
buildings — University — Character of the Belgians — 
By some represented as the worst in Europe — 1 hat 
statement probably overcharged — Extortion — John 
Bull at Paris — French kitchens, &c. — Breweries — 
Roads — Taste in gardening — Canals not an agreeable 
mode of travelling— Heavy taxes — Unsettled political 
state — Vast numbers of English at Brussels — Its ex- 
tent, population and appearance — The park — Anecdote 
of Peter the Great— Town house— Churches— Collec- 
tions of paintings— Anecdote of Bassano— Hotels — 
Table d'Hotc, like the tables at Cheltenham— Expense 
of living— Houses— Jurourin— Forest of Sogne— House 
of correction compared with ours — Walk round the 
city — Fortified towns— Sieges of Ostend, Y.".lencicnncs, 



*tl CONTENTS. 

PAGE. 

Troy and Azotus— Malines— Considerations on its- de- 
cline—Its siik— Population — Buildings — Manner of 
cutting- the trees near the roads— Antwerp, its impor- 
tance— Docks— River— Riches of Belgium— Buildings 
at Antwerp— Accuracy of the Flemish painters— Ap- 
pearance of the country — The inns not equally deco- 
rated with those in Germany — Wooden shoes . . 2Q~ 

CHAP. XVIII. 

Ghent — Its great size — Decreased in population and con- 
sequence— Charles V —D'Arteville— Canals— Trade — 
Buildings — Prison — Land and water travelling — Os- 
tein! and Bruges — Derivation of Bourse — Noisy and 
silent travellers — Proficiency of foieigners m English 
— Taste in bonnets — Sportsmen without game — Cour- 
tray — Dogs drawing — Boundary stone of Prance — Cus- 
tom house — Passports, danger of being without — Lille 
—Fortified by Vauban — Population — Buildings — The- 
atre — Society — Economical residence — Remarkable 
view from Cassel — Berg — Fens — Canals — Dunkirk — 
First impressions — The origin of its name — Buildings 
and population — Flemish language— Of the union of 
Belgium with France — Political consideration — Dun- 
kirk sold by Charles 11. — Lord Clarendon's house so 
called — Its fortifications demolished — Graveliue. — Its 
strong situation — Liberty and equality 1 — Cheap travel- 
ling — Calais the last English possession in France — 
Contrary winds — French officers displeased at the 
theatre — General jealousy of England — Embark on 
board a French packet — Loquacity of the French — 
Arrival in England — Its superiority to other countries 221 



A TOUR 



THROUGH SOME PARTS 0* 



FRANCE, SWITZERLAND, &c. 



CHAP. I. 

I had long been desirous of visiting the Continent, 
bat the long continuance of the war, and the little 
prospect which lately appeared of its termination, 
seemed to afford no chance for the accomplishment 
of my wish. At a period, however, when that arbi- 
trary power, which had so long held in subjection the. 
other nations of the Continent, sought to overthrow 
the only monarch who dared to oppose it, and to 
claim for his subjects the natural rights from which 
they had been excluded by the " Continental System" 
it pleased Divine Providence to destroy the fetters 
which enslaved the nations of Europe, as if to try, 
whether in the school of adversity, they had learned 
to merit the blessings of independence. These great 

B 



unci glorious changes, the reality of which it was at 
first difficult to beiicve, having opened to the subjects 
and commerce of Britain, countries from which they 
had been for so many successive years proscribed, it 
was not long before numbers of British repaired to 
the continent to indulge that love of roving for which 
they had been always distinguished (and which a 
long war had suppressed but not eradicated) and to 
clairr; from ail true patriots, in the countries they visi- 
ted, that friendly reception to which the long perse- 
verance and vast sacrifices of England, during a 
■struggle unexampled in history, had so justly entitled 
the lowest of her subjects. 

The unsettled state in which most part of the Con- 
tmenl necessarily remained for a little time after the 
entrance of the Allies into Paris, did not afford the 
most favourable moment for the journey of one who 
was not a military traveller ; and I did not regret 
that business prevented my leaving England for a few 
months after the opening of the Continent, as I had 
{ho gratification of being a witness, in the British 
metropolis, to the exultation of all ranks of men ; first, 
at seeing the legitimate monarch of France arrive 
there in company with our illustrious Regent who 
having long contributed to lessen the afflictions of the 
exiled Count ds Lille^ had first the satisfaction (to 
which he, amongst all the sovereigns of Europe, was 
best entitled, by the great part, which under his go- 
vernment, England had performed for the cause of 
European liberty) of saluting him as King of France* 



amidst tho cheers of applauding thousands; and,* 
secondly, of witnessing- the arrival of the magnanimous 
Alexander, of that too long unfortunate monarch, 
Frederick William, of those chiefs, PiatofT and BIu- 
cher, whose exploits have ranked them amongst the 
first of heroes, and, at last, of seeing, in the person of 
a Vfdlington, a British marshal who had successively 
foiled the most renowned of the generals of Buonaparte, 
and who, like Turenne, was accustomed" to fight with- 
out anger, to conquer without ambition, and to triuvz^h 
without vanity." 

About the middle of July I left London and proceed- 
ed to Dover, a journey which, in the improved state 
of our roads and of our conveyances, is easily perform- 
ed in one day; and often as I had before travelled 
the Kent road, yet I could not see without surprise, 
the astonishing number of public and private carriages 
with which it abounds, and which must have doubtless 
much increased within the last few T months. I became 
acquainted on the road with a French Abbe, who, 
accompanied by his sister, was returning home after 
an absence of twenty-two years, which he had spent 
mostly in England, but he could by no means express 
himself intelligibly in English. I therefore addressed 
him in his own language, which pleased him extreme- 
ly, and I found him an amusing companion, as well as 
very grateful for some little services I rendered him 
in' arranging with the coachman respecting his bag- 
gage and that of his sister, as they took the whole of 
their property to France with them, including mam- 



household articles which I should not fcave thought 
worth the expense of carriage. We supped in the 
same appartment at Dover, but they had brought 
their provisions with them, which as I afterwards found 
was sometimes the practice in France, either from 
motives of comfort or economy. Such travellers, 
however, would not be much wished for at an English 
inn. 

Next morning my first business was to attend at 
the custom-house ; and the officers, after a diligent 
search, finding nothing illegal amongst my baggage, 
permitted me to purchase a sufferance for it to be 
embarked for France. The rest of the passengers 
having likewise arranged their affairs and obtained 
sufferances, we proceeded on board the packet, and 
found that it was extremely full without this last re- 
inforcement; but I doubt whether the captain was 
of that opinion. I found the charge ior the passage 
amounted to one guinea, which is the sum paid for 
the passage between Dublin and Holyhead, although 
that is nearly three times the extent of the channel 
between Dover and Calais. I was informed that the 
seeming disproportion in those prices was to be attri- 
buted to the heavy post dues at Calais, which for so 
small a vessel as the packet, amounted to 14 or 15/, 
although in the year 1793 they did not exceed 
eighteen shillings. 

Amongst the passengers was a Swiss gentleman, 
who I found passed for a man of great importance 
amongst the sailors. His carriage perhaps contribu,- 



red not a little to this, as it had once been tlae proper- 
ty of the duke of Northumberland; and although the 
arms were defaced, yet the coronet, the garter, and 
the gilding with which it was still decorated, no doubt 
contributed to increase the expenses of a journey 
which, from its length, is a heavy tax on the pockets 
of the generality of travellers, however plain knay be 
their equipage. 

We were above two hours on board before it wj s 
possible to extricate our vessel from the great number 
of transports (I believe not less than thirty- two) Which 
crowded the harbour, being engaged for some time 
in bringing home a large portion of our cavalry, who 
added to the military glory they had acquired in 
Spain and Portugal; by their forbearance in tolerating 
insults to which they were but too often exposed in 
their passage through France, by a people whose 
vanity forbids them to admire valour, except in 
Frenchmen, but whose conduct on those occasions 
served only to increase the obligations which they 
had in so many instances experienced from the hu- 
manity which always attends on British valour. 

If we had to regret the delay we experienced 
in getting out to sea, that sentiment soon vanish- 
ed before the favourable breeze which, in about four 
hours, brought us to the French coast. As the day- 
was hazy, we had not long to admire the venerable 
castle of Dover, and the cliff which Shakspeare has 
celebrated j and some time elapsed before we could, 
distinguish the shores of France, which differ entirely 

b2 



from those of England, rising gradually from the 
pater's edge, with the single exception of Scale* 
Cliff, which seems to correspond with some of those 
bulwarks which characterize our coast from Dover to 
Portland, where, I think, chalk cliffs are succeeded by 
masses of Rock and grey stone. 

The tide being out on ouv arrival before Calais, we 
could not get into the harbour, and with that impa- 
tience to leave a ship, which is natural to landsmen, 
we were glad to accept the offers of some boats which 
hastened around the p?.cket, to offer their services in 
landing us; this, however, they did not' exactly per- 
form, being too large to get very near the shore, to 
which we Mere each of us carried by three French- 
men, one to each leg, and a third behind. This ser- 
vice I had often had performed by one of my fellow- 
subjects, and it seemed to verify the old saying, that 
ii one Englishman is equal to three French?nen." 

Each Monsieur however insisted on a shilling fop 
his services, and the boatmen five shillings from every 
oassenger. But I had travelled enough to know, that 
extortion on such occasions is so general, as not to be 
peculiarly the characteristic of the inhabitants of any 
country, and if ever there is pleasure in being cheated, it 
is surely on such an occasion as that of exchanging the 
misery of a ship for the comforts oi the most indiffer- 
ent inn. 

The arrival for the first time in a foreign coun- 
try, of a person who has never before quitted his 
©wn, is an epoch of considerable moment in his life 



7 . 

Most things are different from those he has been ac T 
customed to, and the force of first impressions is then 
stronger than, perhaps, at almost any other period. 
We are, in general, not much disposed to like any 
custom, or mode of dress, which is greatly at variance 
with what we have been long used to, and the enor- 
mous height of the bonnets in France produces, in my 
opinion, an effect far from pleasing ; the ladies, by 
their strange costume, out-top many of the military. 

I found the town of Calais in a state of equal bus- 
tle with Dover, and from the same cause. It is regu- 
larly fortified, and contains many very good houses^ 
The population is estimated at between seven and 
eight thousand. The market-place forms a spacious 
square. The town-house and church are handsome 
buildings, and altogether it must be allowed much to 
surpass Dover as to appearance. 

The search which my portmanteau had undergone 
the day before in England, was here renewed by the 
officers of the French Douane, but with no better suc- 
cess on the part of the officers in being able to seize 
any thing. They were, however, very polite, and their 
fees only amounted to half a crown. My next care 
was, to attend at the town-hall, and present my passport 
to the inspection of the mayor, who endorsed it with 
his licence for me to proceed to Paris. 

I accordingly determined on setting out without 
further delay, and joined an acquaintance in hiring a 
cabriolet for the journey, to obviate the trouble of 
changing our luggage at every post, and to avoid any 



delay that might arise from not iinding a carriage at 
every station, which is by no means certain, as in Eng- 
land. We found the Cabriolet a very pleasant con- 
veyance, it is nearly as light as a curricle, and has a 
head and windows, which exclude rain. It is drawn 
by two or three horses, and proceeds at a tolerably 
good pace. The postilions are provided with boots of 
a very inconvenient size, and with whips which they 
are perpetually cracking, not much to the comfort of 
the ears of their passengers. 

Those who have never seen any thing but an Eng- 
lish stage-coach, cannot but feel some surprise at the 
different appearance which a French Diligence pre- 
sents. Most of them carry nine inside passengers, and 
three in the cabriolet, and as much luggage behind, 
and in the Imperial, as would load a tolerably large 
waggon. They are generally drawn by four horses, 
which present a very different appearance from those 
under the English carriages, and they are driven by 
one postilion, who rides the wheel-horse. Occasion- 
ally, a second postilion and two more leaders are ne- 
cessary from the weight of the carriage, or the heavi- 
ness of the roads. Carriages in France, in passing 
each other, take exactly different sides of the road 
from what they are obliged to do by our laws of tra- 
velling. 

The country, for many leagues round Calais, re- 
minded me very strongly of Cambridgeshire in its gen- 
eral appearance, being flat, well cultivated, unenclosed} 
and abounding in wind-mills. About the villages 



there are some trees and enclosures ; but a few more 
church spires are wanting to complete the resem- 
blance. The distance from Calais to Paris is about 
180 English miles, and may generally be considered as 
a flat country, occasionally diversified by a few hills of 
no great magnitude. Enclosures are rarely seen, but 
the quantity of corn is quite astonishing. Agriculture 
appeared to me to be in a highly improved state : there 
are artificial grasses and meliorating crops. The ap- 
pearance of the villages in general on this road is but 
little inferior to those in many parts of England. But 
the peasants, although not for the most part badly off, 
have no idea of that neatness, and of those domestic 
comforti which form the great characteristic of the 
same class of people in England. 

An English farmer would laugh at the great cocked 
hat which is usually worn by the French husbandman* 
and would not be disposed to change his white frock for 
the blue one used on the Continent. Some wood is oc- 
casionally to be seen ; but Picardy is not famous either 
for the quantity or quality of its timber. The general 
fuel of the lower orders is turf, which, however, is not 
in any great quantity ; and in appearance it is inferior 
to that used by the Irish peasants. The roads are in 
general kept in good repair, and near Paris and some 
other great towns they are paved in the centre. They 
are flanked in many places by avenues of trees, which 
are for the most part cut with great formality ; but 
even where left to themselves, they do not add much 



10 

to the ornament of the country or to the comfort of 
the traveller, affording but a scanty shade. 

The whole of this road is without turnpikes ; they 
were, as I understood, abolished about three years ago, 
and the roads are now managed by the government. 
The French praise Buonaparte extremely for his at- 
tention to the state of their roads, and it must be own- 
ed that in this particular he merits the praise bestowed 
on him, which cannot be said with truth of many other 
parts of his conduct which seem to have been also ap- 
proved of by the French. Buonaparte, it is true, made 
excellent roads, but he made them only for his sol- 
diers, either to awe those who had submitted to his yoke, 
or to afford a facility of extending still further his con- 
quests. 

The drivers in France do not tax themselves at every 
public-house as with us, for porter or spirits, which 
they do not want ; they seldom stop, unless the stage 
is unusually long, and their horses require a little 
rest. 

Before we were admitted within the gates of Bou- 
logne our passports were demanded, and underwent a 
strict examination, probably the remains of the eti- 
quette established by Buonaparte, this place being 
chiefly remarkable as the port, from whence he pro- 
posed making his threatened descent into England. 
We observed a vast unfinished fort, which he had or- 
dered to be constructed ; it will probably never be 
completed, but crumble to pieces like the vast and ill- 
acquired authority of its founder. The town of J3ou.- 



11 

lo^ne is large and well fortified, but the bustle in the 
port was chiefiy occasioned by the embarkation of the 
Engiisn cavalry. 

We dined at Samers, and there had the first speci- 
men of a French dinner (as at Calais we had iodeed at 
an hotel, which is kept by an Englishman, and where 
every tiling was a /' Anglais e). The general hour for 
dining is twelve o'clock ; many public carriages stop 
to dine before that hour, however, from tweive to one 
o'clock, the traveller is sure at every tolerable inn of 
finding a very abundant and cheap repast. We found 
the bread excellent, as aiso a profusion of fruit ; the 
wine of Picarcly is bad, but good wine may be had from 
the soutnern provinces, at a reasonable price. 

Their meats are so much stewed, that their real 
flavour can hardly be distmguisned, but were they 
dressed by a mode of cookery tnat did them more jus- 
tice, I do not apprenend the epicure wouid have to 
find fault with their quality. 

Tne next piace which presented any thing worthy of 
remark, was Abbeville, a large fortified city which nae 
manufactures of cloth and damask. The church 
which has suffered much during the anarchy of the re- 
volution, is still a large and handsome edifice. We 
proceeded to breakfast at Boix, where the coffee was 
excellent, and the milk was served up boiled, as is ge- 
nerally the custom throughout France. 

We also found good accommodation at Beauvais, a 
large and ancient city, where the architecture of the 
houses reminded me much of Shrewsbury. The 



22 

streets are narrow and winding. The cathedral is well 
worthy the attention of the antiquarian, although it has, 
like many others in France, suffered greatly during the 
revolution. In the neighbourhood of Beauvais are a 
vast number of vineyards, and the effect produced 
by them is very striking to those who have never seen 
a vine but in a stove. But the novelty soon ceases, 
and a vineyard is then seen with as little astonishment 
ss a field of corn. 

We were easily persuaded to make a short devia- 
tion from the direct road, in order to visit Chantilly? 
the once splendid residence of the Princes of Conde, 
but which now affords a melancholy contrast to the 
scene which it exhibited in more tranquil times. The 
Great Chateau has disappeared ; but a small building 
remains at a distance, which is to be fitted up for the 
reception of its venerable owner, who is expected in 
the course of the summer to pay a visit to the inheri- 
tance which the late happy revolution has restored to 
him, after having undergone a sad change in its ap- 
pearance. The great stables are standing, but only 
serve to add to the desolation of the scene by their va- 
cancy, and the contrast which they form to the small 
house which now only remains to the possessor of this 
great domain. — St. Denis, where we soon arrived, is a 
small town not far distant from Paris ; it was anciently 
remarkable for its abbey, which contained the magnifi- 
cent tombs of the Kings of France. These were 
mostly destroyed early in the revolution (but a few still 
remain, in the museum of monuments at Paris, as I 



afterwards found) when the promoters endeavoured to 
obliterate all traces of royalty : but when after a long- 
series of convulsions, Buonaparte thought his dynasty 
had been firmly established on the throne of the Bour- 
bons, he decreed that this abbey should be restored as 
the burying place of the monarchs of France ; and it 
is probable that decree will be carried into effect, al- 
though not in the sense which its promulgator in- 
tended. 



14 



CHAP. II. 

The approach to Paris is certainly very striking, 
but considering the vast extent of the city, its environs 
do not present an appearance of any thing like that 
bustle and activity which marks the vicinity of the 
British metropolis: nor do the villas which are to the 
north of Paris display that aspect of opulence which 
distinguishes those streets of villas by which London 
is encompassed. The gate of St. Denis, under which 
we passed, is a fine piece of architecture ; it stands at 
the end of a long and narrow street, which is but ill 
calculated to impress a stranger with those ideas of 
the magnificence of Paris of which the French are 
perpetually boasting, although it conducts him nearly 
to the centre of the city. I afterwards found that this 
is the most crowded quarter of the city ; the houses 
are from six to eight stories in height, and are almost 
universally built of stone. — But although it must be 
admitted that this entrance to Paris is one of the 
least distinguished, yet at the same time it must be 
observed, that there are but very few streets in that 
city which have much to boast of in point of appear- 
ance ; they are mostly narrow, and the height of the 
houses necessarily makes them gloomy. They are 
(except in one or two new streets at the extremity of 
the town) extremely incommodious for pedestrians, 
there being here no place set apart for them as in 



15 

London ; hence they traverse the streets in perpetual 
dread of being run over by some of those numerous 
carriages which are continually passing along with an 
im/ietus which raises just apprehensions in the mind 
of the foot passenger, that he may share the fate of 
Doctor Slop, if nothing more serious should befall 
him ; as in avoiding the carriages it is no easy task to 
keep clear of the kennel, which is in the centre of the 
street ; the descent to it is rapid, and it is rarely dry 
even in the warmest weather. 

It is when seen from one of the bridges, that Paris 
appears to most advantage, as many of the quays are 
unquestionably very handsome, and decorated with 
many elegant edifices. The Seine is in no part so 
much as half the width of the Thames, in some pla- 
ces not a fourth part, as it forms two islands, on one of 
which stands the original city of Paris. Its waters 
are united at the Pont Neuf, on which stands the 
statue of Henry IV. looking towards the Louvre, 
which he founded. The view from this bridge is 
without comparison the most striking in Paris, and is 
perhaps unequalled in any city, for the great number 
of royal and public edifices which are seen from it ; 
and inconsiderable as is the Seine compared with ma- 
ny other rivers, yet nothing has been neglected to 
render its banks striking to the passenger.— Many of 
the bridges (of which I think there are altogether 16) 
are handsome, particularly those of Austerlitz and of 
Jena, constructed by order of Buonaparte. There is 
one bridge, the arches of which are iron, oposite the 



16 

gallery of the Louvre, which is open only to foot passen- 
gers, each person paying two sous for the privilege of 
being admitted on this promenade, which is often 
much crowded with company. Very soon after my 
arrival at Paris I came to this conclusion, that although 
Paris far exceeds London, Dublin, or Edinburgh, in 
the splendour of its public buildings, and often in the 
handsome appearance of many of its houses, yet those 
cities are far preferable in point of all essential com- 
forts. And after spending a considerable time in 
Paris, I saw no reason to change the opinion which I 
had first formed; that opinion however cannot, I 
should apprehend, be questioned by a Frenchman, as 
it admits fully the magnificence of many parts of his 
favourite city, and this is sufficient for his vanity. With 
us cleanliness and comfort are preferred to shew, we 
find them in most of our own cities, but those who 
know most of Paris will not deny that they are rarely 
to be met with there. 

I had been recommended to the Hotel de Pondi- 
cherry, by a gentleman who had for some time lodged 
there ; but I found there were no vacant apartments. 
After making application in vain at many of the hotels 
in the Rue de Richelieu, I at last suceeded in meeting 
with o;ood accommodation in the Hotel des Prouvaires, 
which was in a convenient situation, and had the ad- 
vantage of having been lately painted. I found the 
people of the house very civil and attentive, and pro- 
duced my passport from the Secretary of States' Of- 
fice, signed by Lord Castlereagh, to satisfy them that 



vt 

I was no aventurier, a very numerous class here. 
The expense I found differed but little from that of 
most of the hotels in London; but the French hotel? 
are in fact more what We should call lodging-houses, as 
they do not supply dinners, Sec. which must be procured 
from a restaurateur's of which there are a vast num- 
ber; and I have heard it stated, that there are no less 
than 2500 coffee-houses in Paris. 

The population of Paris is stated by Marchant, in 
the last edition of his Guide to Paris at 580,000; the 
number of houses is estimated to be 29,400 ; this 
would give an average of nearly twenty persons to 
each house. This I do not consider as too great a 
proportion to allow, if we consider the vast number 
of hotels that can contain at least double that number 
of persons ; and that in many parts of the town each 
story is occupied (as in Edinburgh) by a separate 
family. 

The population of Paris has undoubtedly decreased 
since the revolution ; Dutens, who published his Itin- 
erary about thirty years ago, tells us, at that period 
the inhabitants of Paris amounted to 650,000: but 
even supposing him to have over-rated them, still 
there remains a great disparity in the two calculations, 
and is reasonable to conclude, that the present state- 
ment by Marchant is accurate, from the facilities 
which the system of police affords in forming a just 
calculation on the subject. 

Paris, including all its suburbs, is said to be about 

eight leagues in circumference, and, except London 

62 



13 

and Constantinople, exceeds all the other cities in Eu- 
rope in extent. 

The markets of Paris are remarkably well suppli- 
ed with provisions of every description, and at a price 
which appears moderate to an Englishman. 1 have 
been told, that fuel is sometimes at a very high price 
in the winter ; but not being there at that season, I 
cannot speak from my own experience. What I had 
most reason to complain of during my stay, was scar- 
city of that great essential to health and cleanliness, 
good water. The city is for the most part supplied 
with the first of necessaries from the river Seine, 
Adjoining to one of the bridges is a vast machine, 
which raises its waters, which are conducted to all 
parts of the town, and also supply several public foun- 
ains. They have, however, an extremely bad taste 
from the numerous establishments for washing for all 
Paris, which are established in boats on all parts of 
the river, which is thus strongly impregnated with 
soap-suds, and its cathartic qualities have been expe- 
rienced by many strangers on their first arrival in 
Paris. 

The French never drink this water without mixing 
in it a proportion sugar, and then call it eau sucre, 
which is often called for at the coffee-houses. Most 
houses have reservoirs of sand for filtering the water 
before it is used for drinking; but those who have been 
accustomed to the luxury of good water, cannot be 
soon reconciled to that of the Seine. The water of 
the Ville d'drblay is sold in jars in the streets for 



19 

making tea, and some of the fountains are supplied 
by springs. I believe the iate government had a 
scheme for the construction of an aqueduct, to sup- 
ply purer water for the Parisians than what they now 
use. 

Many fountains have been established within the 
last few years, and the site of that once formidable 
building the Eastile is now occupied by one None 
of these modern fountains (although many of them 
display much taste) are, however, by any means to be 
compared, in point of elegance, to that which stands 
in the market of Innocents, and which was erected in 
the year 1550. Its situation is too confined for so 
handsome a structure, and I had some difficulty in 
finding my way to it. It has the following inscription 
from the pen of M. Santeuil (who has furnished many 
others, particularly that on the fountain near the 
Luxemburg Palace :) 

FONTIUM NYMPHIS. 

Quos duro cernis si.mulatos mamore fructus, 
Hujus Nympha loci credidit esse suos. 

Which may be thus translated, 

The fruits you see on this cold marble hewn, 
This Fountain's Nymph believes to be her own. 

The guide to Paris informs us, that the city is divi- 
ded into several quarters; that the vicinity of the 
Palais Royal, of the Thiiilleries, and of the Chaussee 
tVAntiri) are the most fashionable, and of course the 



2(5 

most expensive; but that lodgings are t® be met witla 
on reasonable terms in parts of the city, which are 
fuliy as desirable, particularly in the suburb of St. 
Germain. There are furnished hotels to be met with 
on a large scale in that quarter, it having been mostly 
inhabited by foreign princes and ambassadors; and 
it was also much frequented by English families, as 
they considered it the most healthy and quiet part of 
Paris. 

The Quarter du Marais was principally occupied 
by lawyers, financiers, annuitants, and in short all the 
the jews of the nation lodged there. 

The quarter of the Palais Royal is chiefly inhabited 
by sharpers, cheats, loungers, and idle people of all 
descriptions. Who could think that a space of ground 
not exceeding 150 acres, contains more heterogeneous 
materials bi ended together than are to be found in the 
9910 acres (the French acre is one and a quarter, 
English measure) on which the city of Paris stands ? 
It is the great mart of pleasure, of curiosity, and of 
corruption ; and if the police wish to apprehend an 
offender, it is in the Palais Royal that they are sure to 
find him. Before the period of the revolution there 
were here but two public gaming houses; but at pre- 
sent the number is really astonishing. The police under 
Buonaparte did not discourage their increase ; they ar- 
gued that these houses were the rendezvous of all shar- 
pers, villains, and conspirators; and that they often saved 
an ineffectual search for them in other quarters. A go- 
vernment like that of Buonaparte did not reflect, that 



31 

these houses, which thus abounded with desperate 
characters, did not fail to perpetuate their number by 
the corruption which they caused in the principles of 
the rising generation ; and many of the best informed 
Frenchmen are well aware that it will be the work of 
time, to recover their country from the demoralized 
state in which it was left after the government of 
Buonaparte. 

On the subject of gaming a French writer has justly 
observed : " Quand il serait vrai que la passion du jeu 
ne finit pas toujours par le crime, toujours est il con- 
stant qu'elle finit par l'infortune et le dishonneur." 
u Granting it to be true, that the love of earning does 
not always terminate in crime, yet still it invariably 
ends in misfortune and dishonour." But is it not ra- 
ther improbable that those who haVe so far transgress- 
ed as to apprehend the, vigilance of the police, should 
venture into the very places where they must be aware 
of immediate detection ? 

Perhaps the same argument holds in Paris as in 
London, against totally suppressing the haunts of these 
depredators on society, That if there were no thieves 
there would be no thief- takers ; and the police are 
content to keep within moderate bounds, a set of men 
who often contribute to their emolument, and whom 
they fear to exterminate. It must, however, be allow- 
ed, that in all large towns, however great may be the 
vigilance of the police, there still must be abundance 
of the followers of Mac heath. Perhaps Paris most 
abounds in sharpers who cheat with f.nessc^ and Lon- 



%2 

don in the number of pick-pockets and robbers. The 
nightly police of Paris is admirably conducted; and 
during my stay there I never experienced the smallest 
molestation in the streets. 

The Palais Royal consists of six squares, the chief 
of which is large and handsomely built on piazzas. 
There are rows of trees in the centre, but they by no 
means contribute to its beauty. 

The shops under these arcades are many of them 
the most shewy in Paris; and, as the owners pay 
a heavy rent for them, they take care to enhanse the 
price of their goods, so as not to carry on a loosing 
concern. The number of coffee-houses and restaura- 
teurs for dining, in this square are very numerous, 
and most of them are by no means moderate in their 
prices, at least when we compare them with others in 
a different part of Paris, or even near the Palais Roy- 
al ; but it is not under these piazzas that economy is 
to be practised. The c:ujp- ae ^ut is one uf the moat 
celebrated for newspapers and politicians ; but one is 
considered as having seen nothing of the manners of 
the place if the CaffS des Aveugles is not visited. This 
is situated under the Italian Coffee-house, and has its 
name from the large orchestra which performs here 
continually, being composed wholly of blind persons. 
I visited this pterce with a friend for a few moments 
after its opening, which is never till five o'clock in 
the afternoon, as its frequenters tolerate only the light 
of candles. 



23 

The subterranean situation of this apartment ren- 
ders it difficult of ventilation ; and the noise of the 
musicians and their audience contending for the su- 
premacy, added to the extraordinary heat of the place 
and the density of the air, occasioned us to make 
a speedy retreat to what, after leaving such a place, 
might be considered as a pure atmosphere. 

Often as the Palais :Royal has been described, and 
forcibly as the scenes which it exhibits have been de- 
picted, yet I confess I do not think the descriptions I 
have read of it by any means overcharged ; and it 
may be safely affirmed that there is no place in the 
world where the scene varies so often in the twenty- 
four hours as it does here. I was attracted by a no- 
tice, that the English newspapers were taken in at the 
Cabinet Litteraire of M. Rosa; and, -having paid my 
subscription, was conducted into a spacious reading 
room, exclusively for the English papers. The love 
of news is at all times natural ; but at a distance from 
home the mind is doubly anxious for the details of 
what is going on there, and attached an interest to 
particulars which, under other circumstances, it 
would consider as too trivial to be worthy of attention. 
During my stay on the Continent, I felt very forcibly 
the truth of Dr. Johnson's observation, H that it is diffi- 
cult to conceive how man can exist without a netvs/ia* 
per.'* I was, however, for a considerable time, forced 
to be satisfied with the French papers, the expense of 
the English being so great, as to cause them to be 
seldom taken in abroad ; and after my departure from 



24 

Paris, I saw no English paper until my arrival at 
Frankfort, an interval of above two months. 

If the pedestrian is exposed to many inconveniences 
and dangers in the streets of Paris, yet intricate as 
they often are, he is seldom in danger of going far out 
of his way, if he attends to the manner in which the 
names of the streets are coloured, those leading to the 
river being lettered in black, and those parallel to, or 
not leading directly to it, in red. The quays form the 
most prominent feature in Paris, and when arrived 
there, he can experience little difficulty in finding the 
road he desires. The mode of numbering the houses 
in Paris differs from that used with us, all the odd 
numbers being on one side the street, and the even 
on the other. 

After having seen the Palais Royal, my attention 
was next attracted by the Palace of the Tuilleries (so 
called from the circumstance of tiles having been for- 
merly made on the spot where it stands). This is a vast 
and magnificent building, extending in front next 
the gardens 168 toises (about 1050 feet English mea- 
sure). The gardens were laid out by Le Notre, and 
exhibit a specimen of the taste of that time, abounding 
in statues, avenues, and water-works; but it must at 
the same time be admitted, that the general effect 
produced is not devoid of magnificence, w r hich heigh- 
tened by the communication between these gardens 
and the Champs Elysees, which forms a vista of great 
length, and when illuminated, the coup d'xil must be 
really superb. On the side of the gardens next the 



river is a terrace considerably elevated, which com- 
mands a view well deserving the praise which has been 
bestowed on it. This was the usual promenade of 
Buonaparte, who caused a subterranean communica- 
tion to be formed between it and the Palace, to avoid 
passing through those parts of the garden which were 
open to the public, who, during his promenade, were 
excluded from the terrace. The Parisians did not 
like this exclusion, and used to say, on seeing his 
Majesty, " See, the lion is come out of his den.'* This 
terrace was also the constant walk of the ex-Empress 
and her son. I was told, that shortly after Buonaparte's 
installation as Emperor, the people, to mark their dis- 
approbation of the dignity which he had assumed, en- 
tirely deserted the gardens of this palace, which had 
always been their favourite walk in the evenings ; and 
that, being hurt at this, the Emperor ordered one of 
his military bands to play here every evening. The 
scheme succeeded; the attraction being too great for 
the Parisians to resist, and the gardens were more 
frequented than ever. 

The other front of the Tuilleries looks towards the 
Place du Carousel, from which it is separated by a 
lofty iron balustrade, the top of which is gilt. Oppo- 
site the centre entrance of the Palace stands a magni- 
ficent triumphal arch, erected by Buonaparte, on the 
top of which he has placed the four celebrated bronze 
horses, which were removed to Paris on the seizure 
of Venice by his army, as they had been formerly 
transported by conquest from Corinth to Constantinople, 

D 



26 

and thence to Venice, where they adorned for several 
centuries the Place of St. Mark. These horses are 
conducted by two figures of Victory and Peace, exe- 
cuted by M. Sencot, which many admire extremely. 

Buonaparte has been no bad locumtencns of this 
palace for the Bourbons, as it bears abundant testimo- 
ny to the taste with which he caused it to be decorated. 
He had the entire of the Louvre scratched, so as to 
give it quite a new appearance, and his crown and 
initials are every where to be seen. On the grand 
facade was an inscription, signifying, " that Napoleon 
the Great had comfileated what Henry the Fourth had 
begun ; but this inscription has disappeared, since the 
retnrn of the descendants of Henry IV. to the palace 
%vhich that great king had built, and which an usurper 
endeavoured to persuade posterity he had a share in 
constructing. It is worthy of remark, that this chef 
d'oeuvre of architecture, as it has always been consi- 
dered, was not the work of a professed architect, but 
of M. Perrault, a physician. The word Louvre is, 
by some, derived from the Saxon Louvar, signifying 
a castle. 

Buonaparte's plans for the further improvement of 
this palace were on the most extensive scale imagina- 
ble, as he intended to remove all the buildings situated 
between the Louvre and the Tuilleries ; and some idea 
of the extent of the proposed area may be formed, 
when it is considered that, in its present state, the 
place du Carousal is sufficiently capacious to admit 
of 15,000 men being drawn up there in battle array. 



27 

Whilst I remained at Paris, a considerable number 
of workmen were engaged in carrying on these im- 
provements, but it is probable, from the exhausted 
state in which the projector of these undertakings has 
left the finances of France, that it will be many years 
before it will be possibly to complete them. 



23 



CHAP. III. 



If the stranger at Paris is struck by the magnificent 
appearance which the exterior of the Louvre pre- 
sents, he cannot fail of being delighted with an inspec- 
tion of the contents of its invaluable Museum. This, 
like nearly all the museums and libraries in Paris, is 

9pen to cvcr'if */t-i*n/*i*i*i*», wj».v,v/l»c v»n txic uays P.ppro- 
priated for study, when only artists are admitted; but 
even then, a stranger, whose stay is limited, may 
be admitted on producing his fiassfiort, a regulation 
which is highly commendable for its liberality ; and at 
none of these repositories are the attendants permit- 
ted to lay any contributions on the visitants. The gal- 
lery of the Louvre was built by Henry IV. to join that 
palace with the Tuiileries, from which it was formerly 
separated, by the walls which surrounded Paris. This 
vast gallery is two hundred toises in length (not a 
great deal short of a quarter of an English mile) ; the 
collection of works of art here is without any parallel, 
as in this place are assembled most of the finest paint- 
ings and statues in the world, which the most indiffer- 
ent must survey with admiration. But at the same 
time, it is impossible not to feel a portion of regret at the 
causes which have robbed Italy of those monuments, 
which its inhabitants- so well knew how to appreciate. 



29 

and for many of which they entertained a religious ve- 
neration, as the ornaments of their churches. 

The French as far as I am able to judge, do not (in 
general) possess any such feelings of sensibility, and 
merely value these chtfs <T<zu~vre because their merit 
is allowed to be incontestable, and because their vanity 
is flattered, in seeing them thus collected by their 
victories as an additional attraction for strangers to 
visit their capital. 

But Italy, although thus despoiled of so many of her 
ornaments, will still have many and great attractions 
for the man of taste ; her buildings exhibit the finest 
specimens of art that are any where remaining ; and 
those possessed of a classic genius will always behold 
with deiight the scenes celebrated by a Horace or a 
Virgil. The paintings in this gallery exceed 1200 
in number; they are divided into three classes, the 
first contains the French school, the second the Ger- 
man, and the third the Italian. Catalogues and de- 
scriptions of the paintings may be had at the doors. 
I often visited this gallery, and always with increased 
admiration. I shall not attempt to enter into any 
details as to the respective excellence of the different 
paintings. Volumes have been written on the subject, 
and my testimony could add nothing to excellence 
which is acknowledged by all — by those who have not 
seen, on the reports of those who have visited this 
splendid assemblage, who, having seen, have not 
failed to admire, and to give currency to their admi- 
ration. 

»2 



30 

The following lines on Raphael, will be readily ad- 
mitted as just by those who have seen some of his sub- 
lime pictures: 

Hie ille est Raphael, timuit quo sospite vinci, 
Rerum magna parens, et moriente mori. 

Here Raphael lies, who could with nature vie, 
To him she feared to yield, with him to die. 

Although I thought my admiration had been so 
largely called forth by the pictures I had just visited, 
as to have been almost exhausted, yet the distinguish- 
ed excellence of the statues did not fail to rekindle it; 
and indeed it is impossible it should have been other- 
wise, when surrounded by such admirable specimens 
of art.-— The number bears its due proportion to that 
of the pictures, and the same reasons which induced 
me to say little of them, will prevent my dilating on 
the excellence af the statues — 

Et la meilleure chose, on la gate souvent, 
Pour la vouloir outrer, et pousser trop avant. 

I must, however, observe, that here are assembled 
the three finest statues in the world, the Laocoon, the 
Venus de Clomene, from the collection of the Medici 
family, and the Apollo Belvidere, which was found 
amongst the ruins of Antrum, about the end of the 
15th century; and even in imagining the most perfect 
nature, it is difficult to form an idea of such perfection 
as is here exhibited; but much as I admired the 
Apollo, I was yet more^ delighted by contemplating 



31 

the excellence displayed in the graceful figure of the 
Venus. 

The gallery of paintings at the palace of the Lux- 
emburg (which is now called the palace of the Peers 
of France, as they sit at present in the hall, formerly 
occupied by Buonaparte's Conservative Senate) al- 
though vastly inferior to that at the Louvre, both as 
to the number, and value of the collection it contains; 
yet it is well worthy the attention of the stranger, 
and the circumstance of its not being too crowded is 
favourable to the visitant, whose attention is not so 
much divided here as by the attractions of the greater 
collection, where he is often at a loss which way he 
shall turn. Here are statues of Bacchus and Ariadne. 
The gallery of Rubens contnins twenty-one pictures 
by that great master, representing the history of Mary 
of Medicis ; it also contains his Judgment of Paris. 
The gallery of Vernet contains a series of views of 
the principal sea-ports of France, by that painter, and 
also Poussin's picture of the Adoration of the Magi. 
Here are also two celebrated pictures by that great mo- 
dern painter, David — Brutus after having condemned 
his Son, and the Oath of the Horatii, which appeared 
to me worthy of the favourable report I had before 
heard of them. 

This palace has a spacious and handsome garden; 
the front of Queen's College, Oxford, is an imitation 
on a reduced scale of its facade to the street. 

After the paintings, I next inquired after the Libra- 
ries which Paris contains ; these are yery numerous, 



but as I had so much to see, I contented myself with 
visiting the two principal ones, first, the royal library. 
Rue Richelieu. This contains the library of Petrarch, 
which alone would render it an object of curiosity. 
Here are also the globes of the Jesuit Corontlli^ which 
are upwards of thirty-four feet in circumference.-— 
The Cabinet of Antiquities contains the collection of 
Count Caylus. The number of printed volumes is 
stated to amount to 350,000. The manuscripts are 
not less than 72,000. Here is also a vast and very 
valuable collection of medals, and about 5000 engra- 
vings. All persons are permitted to read here from 
ten until two o'clock. 

The second Library which I visited, was one which 
formerly belonged to that celebrated Minister, Cardinal 
Mazarin, and is now in the Palais des Beax Arts, on 
the opposite side of the river from the Louvre. This 
collection consists of 60,000 volumes, amongst which 
are many works of great value. 

If the traveller sees much to interest him, and much 
to admire during the course of his tour, it is natural 
that he should occasionally meet with disappointment ; 
and I must confess that in the Metropolitan church of 
Notre Dame, I saw little worthy of that praise which is 
lavished on it by the French ; it is only venerable from 
its antiquity, being one of the most ancient Christian 
churches in Europe. — In point of architecture, and 
the general appearance of the exterior, it yields to any 
of the cathedrals, and to very many of the parish 
churches in England. The interior is mean in the ex- 



33 

treme (the High Altar only excepted ;) the body of the 
church being entirely filled up with the commonest 
rush bottomed chairs, and not kept in any tolerable 
order. But the most splendid church in Paris is un- 
questionably that of St. Sulpice^ which is algo one of 
the most striking buildings in the metropolis, notwith- 
standing the dissimilitude of the two towers of its 
grand western front. 

The Pantheon is not very different as to its general 
appearance from the last mentioned church. This 
edifice has cost already vast sums, but is not consider- 
ed as completed. I saw during my stay at Paris most 
of the churches which it contains, and was in general 
disappointed with their appearance. The church of 
St. Roque is the handsomest after that of St. Sulpice. 
There is a Protestant church in the Rue St. Honore, 
called L'Oratoire. Bossuet said of this congregation, 
* It is a body where all obey, and where no one com- 
mands." — Adjoining to this church is a very small 
chapel, where since the peace the service has been 
performed according to the form of the church of 
England. I attended here the Sunday after my arrival 
in Paris, and found the congregation consisted of about 
40 persons, and at. first sight one could not have sup- 
posed they were all British subjects, so completely had 
the Indies adopted the great nat, and the other pecu- 
liarities of the French ton. 

Still one sees in the streets and public places seve- 
ral who do not desire to be thought French subjects. 



3nd who persist in wearing the much-abused habits of 
their own country. 

There have been many disputes respecting the num- 
ber of English actually in Paris ; I have no doubt it 
has beeHaextremely exaggerated. I saw, at my bank- 
ers, Messrs. Perregeaux & Co. a list of all those who 
had credit with them, which was less considerable by 
half at least than report had stated. 

In the place Vendome stands a truly magnificent 
column (copied from that of Trajan at Rome) to com- 
memorate the victories of Buonaparte and his army in 
Germany. The execution of the das reliefs reflects 
credit on the state of sculpture in France, and cannot 
fail to claim the approbation of the beholder. 

On the top of the column stood a colossal statue of 
Buonaparte ; this, like the other statues of that no- 
dern Sejanus, has disappeared since the downfall of 
his empire, and the return of the ancient dynasty has 
caused to be placed on its summit the white flag, for- 
merly so much venerated by the French. 

I set out at an early hour to go over the celebrated 
Gobelin manufactory in the Rue Mouffetard, the pro- 
prietor of which is extremely civil to strangers, and 
permits them to see his premises from ten till one. 
o'clock, and they are well worthy of attention. The 
name of this manufactory is derived from its founder 
Giile Gobelin, originally from Rheims, who settled 
here in 1450. — I was also the same day much pleased 
with surveying the Stereotype press of that famous 



35 

printer Didot, whose editions of various authors are 
in such esteem among judges of the art. 

In the Place des Victoires, I observed an enormous 
statue of General Dessaix, on the site formerly occu- 
pied by one of Lewis XIV. (I have been informed, 
that about two months after my departure from Paris, 
this statue has been removed to a foundery, where by 
fusion, it may perhaps assume the appearance of a 
Bourbon.) The Great Bureau of the Post, where only 
foreign letters can be franked, that is post-paid by 
those who send them (without which they are not for- 
warded) is in the Rue J. J. Rousseau, whose name was 
given to this street, from his having for some time oc- 
cupied an attic story in it. 

The Botanic Garden (Jardin des Plantes) being open 
to the public only on Tuesdays and Wednesdays, and 
its situation being at the farthest extremity of Paris 
from my hotel, I set out as early as possible to view it 
with the attention it deserved. It is on a very great 
scale, and contains about 7^00 plants, arranged accor- 
ding to the scientific method of M. Jussieu. The 
Library I did not see, but the Museum and the Mena- 
gerie are on the most extensive scale, and accounts 
have been published of their curiosities. — Being fa- 
tigued with seeing the Lions, I sat down to rest for a 
short time on a vacant seat in the garden ; but present- 
ly two elderly iadies came to the same place, and la- 
mented in the most expressive terms the loss of a fa- 
vourite dog ; the lady who had lost it, said it was the 
only consolation she had, that it was absolutely necessc* 



\jt) 



ry to love something, and that she felt most miserable 
at her loss. 

This concern for the loss of a dog appeared to me 
much more natural, than the delight with which some 
virtuosos, whom I observed in the Museum, contem- 
plated many of the specimens preserved there. The 
French have a great latitude of expression, being na- 
turally an extremely lively people ; but certainly not 
so much so as formerly. I recollect some years ago 
being much amused by an anecdote, related by the 
late Dr. Moore, in his " View of the State of Society 
and Manners in France, Italy, and Germany." The 
Doctor was informed by a French gentleman of his 
acquaintance, with that vivacity w r hich distinguishes 
his nation, that he had just then received a final dismis- 
sal from a lady, who had for some time appeared to 
favour his addresses, and that he was absolutely in 
des/iair. Dr. Moore, who, from the vivacity of his 
friend's manners, had no idea that any thing had hap- 
pened that seriously distressed him, answered, that he 
thought him the merriest person he had ever seen in 
such a situation. The other immediately replied, " but 
you English have such an idea of despair !" 

The various revolutions of the last twenty-five years 
have doubtless contributed, in no small degree, to di- 
minish much of that gaiety, whicii formerly distin- 
guished the French from most other nations, and 
which formed one of their chief characteristics. 

Under the late government reserve was positively 
necessary, so numerous were the emissaries of the 



37 

police, and so anxious were they to report the most 
trifling circumstances to their employer, that they 
might convince him how very necessary they were to 
the furtherance of his government. In those unhappy 
times every man mistrusted his neighbour, fearing he 
might be concerned in one of the eighteen police esta- 
blishments supported by the mistrust of the emperor in 
the affections of his subjects. The Conscription Laws, 
and the right which Buonaparte assumed of disposing 
in marriage all ladies possessed of a certain income, as 
a measure of rewarding the services of his officers, 
and which violated the closest connexions and best in- 
terests of society ; together with his system of forced 
loans, which entirely destroyed the rights of private 
property , did not leave his subjects many incitements 
to mirth — although it was dangerous to appear dejec- 
ted. " The Voyage Descriptif et Philosophique de 
Paris, par L — P — ," contains the following remarks, 
the truth of which renders them interesting, and I shall 
therefore translate them, for the information of those 
who may chance to peruse these pages. The author 
observes, " An air of inquietude has succeeded that 
openness and sociability, which so much distinguished 
the French. Their serious air announces that most 
people are considering the amount of their debts, and 
are always put to expedients. One guesses, that in a 
company of thirty, at least twenty-four are revolving 
the means of acquiring wealth ; and notwithstanding 
twenty are without it." I shall quote in conclusion 
what the same writer says of the Parisian, and which 

E 



38 

strikes me as a correct statement. " The Parisian is 
in general tolerably indifferent as to his political situa- 
tion ; he is never wholly enslaved, never free. He 
repels cannon by puns, and links together power and 
despotism by witty epigrams. He quickly forgets the 
misfortunes of the preceding day ; he keeps no diary 
of grievances, and one might say, he has sufficient 
confidence in himself not to dread too absolute a des- 
potism. It is to be hoped, that the happy restoration 
of the Bourbons will restore to the Parisian his gaiety, 
and that Louis XVIII. the legitimate father of the 
French, will cause all former political convulsions to 
be forgotten.,' 

The Parisians are distinguished by their loquacity. 
Having occasion to employ a hair-cutter, I was quite 
stunned by his volubility of tongue. King Archelaus 
would find it difficult to be suited here ; for being 
asked how he would have his hair cut, he answered — 
" silently." 

After many ineffectual attempts, I at last succeeded 
in satisfying my curiosity by seeing the assembly of 
the Legislative Body The building is one of the 
greatest ornaments of which Paris can boast ; it was 
chiefly the work of Buonaparte, who was satisfied to 
lodge these gentlemen in a palace, provided they did 
not interfere in the government of their country. I 
was not gratified in proportion to the trouble I had in 
getting into the hall, by the short and uninteresting 
debate which ensued. This House was occupied du- 
ring the greatest part of my stay in Paris in discussing 



39 

the forms proper to be observed when the king meets 
the peers and commons. 

The deputies object, that the king should himself 
desire the peers to be seated, and that they should only 
receive that permission through the medium of the 
chancellor : how the point has been decided, I have 
not been since informed. 

The weather was intensely hot during part of my 
stay at Paris, the quicksilver being occasionally at 26* 
Reaumur, equal to 90° of Fahrenheit's scale, and the 
sky without a cloud, there not being, in general, such 
a cloud of smoke over Paris as generally obscures the 
atmosphere of London. Yet, I believe, the best ac- 
counts allow that London is to the full as healthy a city 
as Paris, and if cleanliness is conducive to health the 
point can admit of little doubt. During part of this 
oppressive weather, I used generally to resort, about 
mid-day, to the gallery of the Louvre, being anxious 
to take every opportunity of contemplating its superb 
collection of the works of art. There, notwithstanding 
the number of visitors, the marble floors and ventilators 
rendered the air much more cool than it was out of 
doors. I generally set out on my rambles through 
the city at as early an hour as custom would permit, 
and in the evening, often joined the pedestrians in the 
gardens of the Tuilleries, which were always thronged 
with company of all descriptions. There are a vast 
number of chairs under the trees, and their proprietors 
demand one or two sous for the right of sitting in 



40 

them. I have been assured that this inconsiderable 
charge procures a total by no means contemptible. 

I sometimes extended my walk into the Champs 
Elysees, which extend a long way beyond the Place 
de Louis XV. Its avenues are lighted like the streets 
of Paris, by lanthorns, suspended across them by ropes 
and pullies, which give a stronger light than our 
lamps, but do not seem equally secure. At the end 
«*f the centre avenue, which runs in a straight line from 
the grand entrance to the Tuilleries, Buonaparte had 
lately begun a triumphal arch to commemorate the 
victories of his armies ; and still further, exactly op- 
posite the bridge of Jena, he caused a vast number of 
houses to be destroyed, to make way for a projected 
palace for the King of Rome. The foundations only 
of this edifice had been laid before the overthrow of 
Buonaparte, and this large plot of ground now presents 
a scene of waste and desolation. 

The present government, which will not prosecute 
so expensive and useless an undertaking, will still 
have to make compensation to the owners of the buil- 
dings of which only the ruins remain. 

The quarter of St. Antoine is celebrated in the an- 
nals of the Revolution ; and, indeed, there are but few 
parts of Paris, which do not recal to one's mind some 
of these scenes so disgraceful to humanity of which it 
was the great theatre. The Place Royale in this dis- 
trict is only remarkable for having been built by Henry 
IV. : it forms a square with a small garden in the cen- 
tre, but has long ceased to be a fashionable residence. 



4t 

In Paris there are no squares similar in plan to thost 
in London, but occasionally one sees places formed by 
the junction of streets, Sec. The town-house is a large, 
and as I think, a tasteless Gothic edifice ; and in the 
Place de Greve stood that guillotine which deprived 
sucli incredible multitudes of their iives. At one pe- 
riod of the Revolution every successful faction in turn, 
endeavoured, as it should seem, to exterminate its 
enemies, when it succeeded in possessing itself of the 
supreme power, which then chiefly consisted in the 
command of this formidable instrument ; and these 
successive tyrants, like Sylla, were often in doubt 
whom they should permit still to remain alive. 

I do not know that the invention of the guillotine^ is 
to be ascribed to the ingenuity of the French, but they 
will for ever remain obnoxious to the charge of the 
most dreadful abuse of it. I have heard it stated that, 
so late as the reigns of Elizabeth, and James the First, 
an instrument similar to the guillotine, was used for 
the execution of offenders in the vicinity of Hardwicke 
Forest, in Yorkshire. 

The Boulevards are now merely very spacious 
streets, with avenues of trees at the sides, but formerly 
they were the boundaries of the city. They form a 
fashionable promenade for the Parisians, and abound 
with horsemen and carriages more than any other 
quarter of the town. Along the Boulevard Poissonnier 
are some of the handsomest houses in Paris. I dined 
with a family in one of them which commands a very 
cheerful scene. There are here, as in the Palais Roy- 

s2 



4% 

al, a vast number of coffee-houses, billiard-tables, and 
restaurateurs. The price of a dinner differs little from 
what is usually paid in London, but oread is about half 
the price, and there is a great saving in the charge for 
wine, with this additional advantage, that it is generally 
of much better quality than can be met with in London 
for double the price ; as the heavy duties on importing 
French wines necessarily induces their adulteration. 
A stranger to French manners^ is surprised at seeing 
ladies of respectability frequenting coffee-houses and 
taverns, which they do as matter of course ; — so pow- 
erful are the habits in which we have been educated. 
After the Boulevards, the Rue Royale and the Rue 
tie Rivoli are the handsomest in Paris. The last na- 
med is tar from being completed, and runs in a line, 
facing the gardens of the Tuilleries ; in these two 
streets there is a division to protect foot passengers, 
but they are not flagged. 



CHAP. IV. 

The Royal Hotel of the Invalids, is one of the prin- 
cipal establishments in Paris, which claims the atten- 
tion of the stranger, and I accordingly went to view it 
with a party of friends. The principal court has just 
resumed the title of Royal, but we couid easily distin- 
guish that it had been a few months since dignified by 
that of Imperial. Indeed, all over Paris, this change 
is very perceptible. The last letters are often in the 
old gilding, and the first part of the style only altered, 
as the French do not, in general, like to do more than 
is necessary, and but seldom condemn a house, but 
continue to patch it up in some manner, so as to make 
it last a little longer, which accounts for the appear- 
ance of antiquity which generally distinguishes their 
towns. 

But to return to the Invalids. The establishment is 
said to be calculated to accommodate 5000 men ; but 
we found upon inquiry, that the number then actually 
maintained did not exceed 3600. As it was their din- 
ner hour, we went into their refectory ; each man has 
a pint of the vin ordinaire, (the general price of which 
is from ten to twenty sous the bottle ;) but I doubt 
whether it would be received as a substitute for malt 
liquor either at Chelsea or Kilmainham. The church 
of this establishment, is one of the most splendid in the 



44 

capital. The Ex-Emperor caused monuments to be 
erected here to Vauban and Turenne. The latter by 
a special mark of the favour of Lewis XIV. had been 
interred in the royal vault at St. Denis ; but his re- 
mains now rest here ; and the monument is worthy of 
so distinguished a general. That to Vauban, on the 
opposite side, is by no means equally elegant. 

The elevation of the dome of this church, exceeds 
that of any other building in Paris ; and the French 
boast, that it rises to a greater height than St. Paul's 
Cathedral in London ; but this I do not think is the 
case, although the point is of little moment. M. Du- 
tens gives us the following scale of the comparative 
elevation of some of the highest buildings in the 
world. 

Toises. 
The highest Pyramid - - - 77| 
Strasburg Cathedral to the top of the 

vane - - - - - 7\~- 

St. Peter's at Rome, to the summit of 

the cross - - - - 68 

Church of the Invalids at Paris, to the 

vane ----- 54 

St. Paul's Cathedral, London, to the 

top of the cross - - - 53 

The interior of the dome of the Invalids is hand- 
somely painted ; but the exterior exhibits what I must 
consider as a very misplaced species of decoration for 
a place of this nature, being completely gilt y pursuant 



45 

w an order of Buonaparte, dated as I have been infor- 
med by good authority, from Moscow. This decora- 
tion has, as can well be supposed, cost vast sums, but 
it probably obtained for the ex- Emperor that eclat, by 
which he constantly sought to please the vanity of the 
Parisians. Many of his decrees for the embellishment 
of their city, being dated from Vienna, Berlin, and 
Madrid, he sought to astonish the multitude, by at- 
tempting to accomplish in a few years, what it would 
in general require an age to effect. Perhaps, calcula- 
ting on the instability of his power, he hastened the 
construction of whatever might render it famous. A 
French writer observes, " II vouloit courir a cheval a 
la posterite." 

Near the Invalids there is a Military School for 500 
children ; and near the Chamfi de Mars are two large 
barracks. Indeed, Paris abounds with them, as the 
military power has long been predominant in France 
The Chamfi de Mar* is only celebrated in the history 
of the Revolution ; its present appearance is by no 
means interesting. In this vicinity is the Place de 
Crenelle, famous for being the spot where military 
executions used to take place. One of the last victims 
who perished here, was the unfortunate General Mal- 
let, who while the oppressor of his country was still 
contemplating the devastation which he had occasioned 
in Russia, sought to deliver France from so galling a 
yoke ; and he is said to have been possessed of many 
©f the qualities necessary for so honourable ?nd ardu" 
©us an undertaking ; but the reign of Buonaparte w#s 



46 

still to continue for eighteen months longer ; and he 
who had the resolution to attempt, had not the satisfac- 
tion of seeing, its subversion. In his way to the place 
of execution, being assailed by a hired mob with cries 
of * Vive l'Empereur,' " yes, yes,'" 1 said the General, 
" cry long live the Emperor if you please, but you will 
only be happy when he is no more" He would not 
suffer his eyes to be covered ; and displayed in his last 
moments a fortitude, that will cause his memory to be 
long revered by the enemies of despotic power. 

The Museum of French Monuments is one of the 
numerous institutions produced by the Revolution.-— 
This place contains a collection of those tombs which 
escaped the fury of a Revolution that at once proscri- 
bed both royalty and religion. They were deposited 
here as models of art, which did honour to the repub- 
lic, by proving the genius of its statuaries and sculp- 
tors, (the works being classed according to the centu- 
ries in which they were made ;) and as the busts of the 
most celebrated and declared enemies of Christianity, 
are every where interspersed, the design seems obvi- 
ously to have been to inculcate the principles which 
they inculcated ; if, indeed, they acted upon any prin- 
ciple, each fearing to acknowledge the superiority of 
the other. To doubt was their criterion of wisdom, 
(but although Hume said, that even when he doubted, 
he was in doubt whether he doubted or not, he does 
not appear lo have once doubted that he was wrong in 
his attacks on religion,) and they only united in ridicu- 
ling that belief in a Supreme Being, which has been 



47 

received, as it were instinctively, by nil nations, how- 
ever savage, and which has been the consolation of the 
best and wisest of mankind. 

Any believer in religion, or any one who has not by 
perverted reasoning, brought his mind really to doubt 
its divine truths, (for men are but too apt to admit even 
the arguments of absurdity, when they tend to absolve 
them from duties, which they would avoid,) cannot but 
experience a sentiment of regret at this violation of the 
ancient consecrated burial places, (where the contem- 
plation of these emblems of mortality was calculated to 
inspire a beneficial awe ;) and of sorrow, that as reli- 
gion is by iaw restored in France, these monuments, 
many of which have been taken from the royal burying 
place of St. Denis, should not be replaced in the chur- 
ches from which they were taken in those calamitous 
times. 

I here saw the tomb of Cardinal Richelieu, which 
was originally in the college of the Sorbonne. It is 
the work of the celebrated Gerardin, and is a fine 
piece of sculpture. Many of the other monuments 
are very elegant; but it would be tedious to enter in- 
to further details. 

In walking through the Rue Colbert, a French 
gentleman of my acquaintance pointed out to me the 
house in which Louvois had resided, and declared his 
opinion, that that minister had proved one of the great- 
est causes of the ruin of France ; he followed up his 
assertion by a declamation of such a length, that I shall 
not attempt to collect his arguments, but leave my 



4S 

readers to come, to their own conclusion on the sub-* 
ject. 

I had intended visiting those vast catacombs which 
extended under a great part of Paris, and which now 
serve as burial places, but was induced to desist from 
the undertaking by the advice of a person who had 
made the experiment, and had suffered much more 
from the state of the air in those caverns, than he had 
been gratified by the curiosity of the scene. I was 
in the evening induced to visit a scene of a very differ- 
ent nature, and accompanied a party to the Gardens 
of Tivoli, in the Rue Lazare. This was, before the 
revolution, the property of M. Boutin, formerly treasu- 
rer of the marine, who had spared no expense in its 
decoration. The extent is about fourteen acres, and 
it much resembles Vaaxhall. 

The vast proportion which the military officers bear 
in all companies, and in all the public places here, can- 
not fail to be remarked by a stranger, and proves the 
success of the ex-Emperor, in his endeavours to render 
the French merely a military people. Under the old 
regime, no military uniforms were permitted to be 
worn in public places ; but at present such a regulation 
would be quite impracticable. At present the military 
take a great lead in society, which has, perhaps, suffer- 
ed more than is generally thought by the civil commo- 
tions of the state. 

Wishing to be able to form some idea of the mili- 
tary events which led to the capture of Paris, I went 
by the gate of St. Martin to the other places which 



49 

were connected with those memorable operations. 
It was on^the 30th of March, 1814, that the allied armies, 
consisting of nearly 200,000 men, attacked the heights 
of Bellevue, St. Chaumont, and Montmartre ; the can- 
nonade continued from six in the morning until half 
past three o'clock n the afternoon, and after a bloody- 
combat in the plains of Viilette, where they were op- 
posed by 30,000 French troops, a suspension of arms 
was signed a little after five o'clock. The next day 
about noon, the Emperor of Russi: and King of Prus- 
sia entered Paris by the barrier of Viilette, at the head 
of 50,000 men. A French writer remarks, that Mont- 
martre is rendered famous by the gauant s and made 
there by a smaii body o- x rench troops against the 
whole of the alii a arm/. T e i ■ icnch cannot bring 
themselves to allow that their nation has the worst in 
any contest. Tiiey are now, however, s ..sibie that 
they have been defeated, whicn no doubt conduces 
greatly to their present hi humour. Vanity is their 
do ineering passion, and this Buonaparte always con- 
trived to flatter so successfully, by concealing unwel- 
come truths, and exaggerating success at he is still 
regretted by a large number of persons, who hate the 
present government for the openness of their conduct, 
as after being so long accustomed to the fabulous his- 
tories with which they were amused by their late ruler, 
they have a contempt for that candour which informs 
them of their actual situation, and which would excite 
the approbation of a nation possessed of a less degree 
of vanity. A great love of novelty is also very con- 

F 



50 

spicuous in the French character. I think it was Fre- 
deric the Great, who observed in writing to d'Alem- 
bert, "that to please the French they should have 
every two years a new king." 

From the hights of Montmartre, a vast and magnifi- 
cent panorama is presented to the view. Nearly the 
whole of Paris is seen from thence, and a great extent 
of country terminated by distant mountains. Those 
who wish to have a good general idea of Paris, should 
not fail to ascend this eminence. In point of size, 
Paris does not appear to me to be more than half the 
extent of London, when seen from Hampstead or 
Greenwich. It was from this situation that the Em- 
peror Alexander first surveyed Paris, and he probably 
was struck with the shewy appearance of the gilded 
dome of the Invalids, but pernaps was uninformed 
that it was from the Kremlin^ and whilst surrounded by 
the flames of Moscow, that Buonaparte gave orders 
for the commencement of this new and evtravagant 
decoration to increase the splendour of Paris. But 
the magnanimous perseverance of Alexander in the 
contest, was at last rewarded, and he saw from Mont- 
martre that proud city, which had so often exulted at 
hearing of the capture of the other capitals of Europe, 
lying in his power. Without the capture of Paris in 
its turn, the triumph of Europe for the injuries which 
were inflicted in most parts of it, by the French, so 
long the willing instruments of Buonaparte's tyranny* 
I- ad been incomplete. 



51 

Alexander's entry into Paris was hailed as a libera- 
tion from that despotism, which its inhabitants had not 
themselves the energy to shake off, and which they 
had acquiesced in or abetted for so many successive 
years. 

That Alexander should have triumphed over Buo- 
naparte, was fortunate for the liberty of Franc e, but 
it was also indispensable to the peace of Europe. 

The establishment of M. Delacroix, Rue Croix des 
Petits Augustins, to remedy the defect of nature by a 
gymnastic process, is unique in France. I shall give 
the prospectus a place here ; and feeling my inability 
to do it justice, shall not attempt to translate it " Dans 
" la Rue des Vieux Augustins est l'etablissement de 
" M. Delacroix Mecanicien Bandagiste Gymnastique 
<« pour redresser les defauts de la nature, particuliere- 
" ment chez les femmes. On y remarque Le Mat qui 
" est une Colonne en forme de Mat, autour duquel se 
" trouvent des echellons servant a monter pour de- 
" veloper les hanches et la poitrine ; les Colonnes ou 
" piliers, exercice servant a mettre le corps droit 
" Le Balancier sert a redresser la Colonne vertebrale 
"ou epine du dos. Les Barilles pour redresser la tete 
"les epaules et les hanches. Le Balan$oir est pour 
" maintenir la tete et les reins droits quand on est as- 
" sis. Le puits la dalle et la manivclle pour donner de 
" la force a une epaule faible. U Echelle pour redres- 
« ser les epaules. Le Chcval pour apprendre a y 
"monter, et tenir le corps dans un etat nature!. Le 
" Jube pour redresser la tete et donner des graces; les 



52 

" Plombs pour apprendre a marcher' avec grace. Le 
'"' Fauteuil pour lever un cote de la poitrine qui seroit 
" plus bas que l'autre ; le soufflet pour donner un exer- 
u cise regulier a toutes les parties du corps. Ce me- 
** canicien habile fait des mains dont les doigts ont les 
" mouvements naturels; et son etabiissement est l'uni- 
"que en France." To judge, from this description, 
it should seem as if those to whom nature has not 
been propitious, or those who have been deprived by- 
accident of a limb, are culpably negligent if they do 
not apply at an institution which professes to remedy 
some oi the most desperate calamities incident to hu- 
man nature. With what probability of success, howe- 
ver, such an application would be attended, it is not 
possible for me to determine. I copy the prospectus 
of the Professor without being able to judge myself of 

his proficiency. 

I accoptcd one morning a proposal to accompany a 
gentleman to the Tuilleries to see the King go to mass 
(which he had been prevented by the gout from do- 
ii g, at least in public for some time); we found a great 
number of spectators had assembled on the occasion 
in the hall through which his Majesty was to pass, and 
which was lined with his corfis de garde. We had a 
considerable time to wait before he made his appear- 
ance, and had ample leisure to survey the portraits of 
the marshals of France, with which the apartment is 
decorated, as well as with paintings representing 
many of Buonaparte's victories. His Majesty appear- 
ed to be in excellent health, and received with much 



53 

affability several papers which were handed to him, 
and which he gave to a gentleman in waiting. He 
was greeted repeatedly by cries of Five le Roi ! and 
there is no doubt that by far the most respectable por- 
tion of the French sincerely wish him prosperity. I 
trust they may prove sufficiently strong to keep under 
those, who I fear are at least as numerous a class, and 
who have not learned, by the experience of so many- 
years of confusion, to value the blessings of tranquility 
when they have at last obtained it, attended with the 
advantages of a mild government. 

I believe it is agreed by all that the King has a 
good heart. His regard for England, which has done 
so much for his family, is highly to his honour; and P 
hear he testifies it upon all occasions. Lately, at a 
consultation of his physicians, one of them having said 
he feared a long residence in a damp climate, had con- 
tributed to increase the attacks of the gout, the King 

interrupted him by saying, "Ah! Monsieur P -, 

ne dites pas du mal d'Angleterre." The conduct of 
his Majesty, since his restoration to the crown of his 
ancestors, proves him not to be deficient in either abi- 
lity or resolution ; and there perhaps never was a peri- 
od which called for a greater exertion of both than the 
present. The other day Paris was thrown into a con- 
siderable alarm by the arrival of intelligence from Ne- 
vers, that the garrison there had declared for Buona- 
parte. In consequence every precaution was resort; d 
to on the part of government, and the guards in Paris 
were doubled ; but happily nothing occurred to dktuib 

f2 



54 

the public tranquillity. The number of discontented 
spirits which the Revolution has left afloat, and which it 
would not require any very considerable share of arti- 
fice to raise against any government, will require for a 
long time the exertion of the utmost vigilance on the 
part of the present administration. Louis might have 
been addressed with propriety, on his arrival in France, 
in the admonitory words of Galba to Piso : " Impera- 
turus es homnibus, qui nee totam servitutem pati pos- 
sunt nee totam libertatem." 

On my departure from the Tuilleries my friend con- 
ducted me to a famous glass manufactory, where I saw 
several mirrors of very large dimensions, and also a 
staircase of glass, which had a splendid effect, and was 
the first thing of the kind I had ever seen. The balus- 
trades were of glass, supported by steel, and had a 
particularly handsome appearance. The number of 
theatres in Paris have of late years much increased, and 
amount at present to eight or ten. The Opera Itaiien 
is justly celebrated as the best in Europe; but I recei- 
ved more entertainment at the Theatre Francois, in 
witnessing the representation of one of the admirable 
comedies of Moliere. The Theatre de FOdeon is 
curious from its construction, but the minor theatres 
on the Boulevards, de Gaiete, and des Varieties, are 
in general the most frequented ; and. except on extra- 
ordinary occasions, the Theatre Francois is by no 
means fully attended. A stranger in Paris is surprised 
at the number of bureaux d'ecrivains, or offices for 
writing, which abound in all parts of the town, where 



55 



all materials for writing are provided for a few sous, 
and where persons attend to write letters, in any lan- 
guage, to the dictation of such as are not skilled in 
the graphic art. 



56 



CHAP. V. 



I resolved not to take my departure from Paris 
without visiting some of the numerous royai palaces 
situated in its vicinity. St. Cloud first claimed my 
attention, both from its proximity to Paris, and from 
its having been for a considerable time the favourite 
residence of the ex-ruier of France. Its situation is 
certainly one of the most striking near the capital, and 
the views from it are both diversified and extensive. 
The improvements made here by Buonaparte render 
it a most agreeable residence, and display an extreme- 
ly good taste. This palace is at present occupied by 
the Prince of Conde. Tne approach to it from Paris 
is very striking, through avenues of elms, with lamps 
at regular distances. 

I also visited Marli, which is chiefly remarkable 
for the machine which raises water from tne Siene 
to the height of five hundred feet. St. Cyr was the 
retreat of Madame de Maintenon, and Malmaison was 
the residence of Buonaparte, when first consul ; but it 
is far inferior to St. Cloud. The palace of St. Ger- 
main is in a situation inferior to none I had seen. My 
expectations had however been particularly raised by 
the accounts I had heard of Versailles, which has at 
all times been the object of the admiration of the 



57 

French ; and it is certainly better suited to their ideas 
of grandeur than to ours. 

This palace is about four leagues distant from Pa- 
ris. The approach to it has nothing of that magnifi- 
cence that I had been led to expect, and the road is in 
bad repair. On my arrival, I found it was impossible 
to gain admittance into the palace, which was under- 
going a thorough repair, rendered indispensable by 
neglect during the last twenty years. The number 
of workmen employed is stated to amount to two 
thousand. It is a vast pile of building, and certainly 
one of the most famous royal residences in Europe. 
A Frenchman tells you with exultation of the vast 
sums which have been expended in its construction, 
and thinks that a sufficient proof of its magnificence. An 
Englishman, however, will very naturally be out of 
patience at the praises bestowed on gaidens laid out in 
that taste which has been so long exploded in England; 
and cannot h^Ip exclaiming with the poet — 

"Lo ! what huge heaps of littleness around! 5 * 

In front of the palace is a vast terrace which you 
mount with considerable difficulty by innumerable 
flights of stairs. To occasion an unexpected treat to 
the admirers of art, by excluding every thing natural, 
the whole of this elevation is abundantly supplied with 
po; ds and water- works. The grand vista in front of the 
palace is formed into a canal, and no descriptor can 
give a more just idea of these boasted gardens than 
■fee following lines of Pope ; the only difference 



53 

being, that the water-works of Versailles are put iu 
motion the first Sunday of every month, and remaia 
stagnant the rest of the year. 

" Grove nods at grove, each alley has a brother, 
And halt" the platform just reflects the other. 
The suffering eye inverted nature sees, 
Trees cut to statues, statues thick as trees ; 
"With here a fountain, never to be play'd, 
And there a summer-house that knows no shade; 
Here Amphitnte sails thro' mirtie bow rs, 
There gladiators fight or die in flow'rs ; 
Unwater'd see the drooping sea-horse mourn, 
And swallows roost in Nnus dusty urn." 

What pleased me most at Versailles was the great 
number of large orange and lemon trees. 

The forest of V-ar&aiiies ie of great extent, and 
abounds in wood, but there is little of what would be 
eonsidered in England as qood timber. 

Windsor and Versailles have been often compared, 
although no two places can possibly differ more com- 
pletely than they do. To have again recourse to the 
words of the poet, Windsor is a pla.ee, 

" Where order in variety we see ; 

And where, tho' all things differ, all agree." 

And, in my judgment, it is as far superior to Versa?!* 
les as its forests of oak are to the elms which surround 
tb*t boasted palace; 



59 

I was permitted to see the royal stables. They are, 
it is said, sufficiently large to contain 4000 horses, but 
are at present much out of repair. The city of Ver- 
sailles is large and well built, but has a melancholy 
and deserted appearance, having lost nearly half its 
population since it has ceased to be a royal residence, 
and the present number of inhabitants does not exceed 
30,000. The Grand and Petit Trianons deserve atten- 
tion from having been the favourite retreats of the late 
unfortunate Queen of France ; but few traces of the 
taste once displayed in their decoration now remain. 
They are situated within the limits of the forest of Ver- 
sailles, which is said to be twenty leagues in circuit. 
At Sevres, which is celebrated for the beauty of its 
porcelain manufactory, I observed workmen employed 
in finishing a new and handsome bridge of nine arches 
over the Seine, in place of the old one which is hardly 
passable. Near the barrier of Passy is a carpet manu- 
factory, which was established there by Henry the 
Fourth. This barrier is thought to be the most stri- 
king entrance to Paris. In my excursions in the 
vicinity of Paris, I observed that the harvest was ex- 
tremely abundant, but the majority of those employed 
in collecting it were wonen. I was informed that last 
year the greatest difficulty was experienced in saving 
the harvest for want of a sufficient number of hands. 
I saw, at a distance, the castie of Vincennes, where 
Buonaparte (who had caused the removal of every 
vestige of the Bastile) had dungeons constructed many 
feet under ground, and with walls ten feet thick. This 



place is distinguished for the atrocious murder of the 
Duke d'Enghien. I had occasion to observe, both in 
the streets of Paris and on the roads in its vicinity, that 
there were but few private carriages to be seen, and 
those by no means handsome ; but the roads are cover- 
ed with cabriolets, of which there are 2,800 in Paris, 
besides about 2,000 fiacres, or hackney-coaches. The 
fare for an hour is only thirty sous. 

As I had by this time pretty well satisfied my curio- 
sity, in visiting the objects in Paris that principally 
arrest the attention of a traveller who has not leisure to 
dwell longer than is indipensable in one place, I began 
to be impatient to exchange the continual bustle of 
that city — its 

" Fumttm opes strepitumque," 

for those romantic and enlivening scenes in which 
Switzerland stands without a rival, and is, as it were, 
by acclamation, allowed to surpass the other countries 
of Europe. 

I therefore attended at the office for foreign affairs, 
and obtained the signature of the Prince of Benevento 
(for about ten francs) in addition to the signature of our 
own distinguished minister, Lord Castlereagh. I was 
told it was necessary also to have my passport visited 
"by the police before leaving Paris ; and my landlord 
offered his services to arrange that affair for me. I 
however recollected Dr. Franklin's maxim, " If you 
would have your business done, go ; if not, send," and 
went accordingly to the office myself. 



61 

These affairs being arranged so as to permit my 
passing without molestation through the interior of 
France, I quitted Paris without any sensations of regret 
at leaving a place which, highly as I had been pleased 
with many of the great objects which it contains, I 
cannot but consider, when curiosity is once gratified, 
to be an unpleasant residence. I took the road to Fon- 
tainbleau, distant about thirty-seven English miles ; a 
place formerly only remarkable for its castle, situated 
in a forest of about 30,000 acres, and often visited by 
the Kings of France, for the amusements of the chase ; 
but which will hold in history a distinguished page, 
and be visited in future ages as being the scene where 
it pleased Providence to terminate a tyranny unexam- 
pled in the history of the world. It is worthy of re- 
mark, that in this very castle, in which the venerable 
Head of the Romish Church was so long and so un- 
justly detained a captive, his once formidable oppressor 
was obliged to abdicate that authority which he had so 
long usurped and abused ; and the 1 \th of Aprils 1814, 
will be long hailed over Europe as the epoch when 
liberty, peace and good order were restored to its in- 
habitants, after the long and stormy reign of oppres- 
sion, war and anarchy had so long precluded the ex- 
pected time of whjch it was impossible entirely to 
despair — when Europe, so long a prey to dissension, 
should again be united as one common family. These 
hopes have at last been realized ; the evils of the 
French Revolution (more productive of misfortune 
than the fabled box of Pandora) have in a manner been 

G 



62 

surmounted ; and we have only further to wish, that 
the nations who have restored tranquillity to Europe, 
may continue to act with the moderation for which they 
have hitherto been distinguished. 

It was natural, in beholding a place rendered memo- 
rable by such great events— events which are probably 
destined to fix the fortunes of succeeding centuries, 
that the mind should dwell with more than common 
attention on the scene, and give itself up to the reflec- 
tions it was calculated to produce. My thoughts were 
principally engaged in considering the very opposite 
characters of Pius VII. and of Buonaparte. 

In the first we see united ali that can give dignity to 
an exalted station, or that is praiseworthy in private 
life. We see him disposed as much as possible to 
conciliation, and even persuaded by his cardinals to 
cross the Aips in the most inclement season notwith- 
standing his advanced age, to crown the Usurjier of 
France, in the expectation of advancing the interests 
of religion, by consenting to submit to a power which 
then appeared but too firmly established. The hopes 
of the pope were not realized ; Buonaparte soon for- 
getting past services, made demands which he well 
knew could not be complied with, and amongst them 
that his holiness should declare war against England, 
and that too without the slightest motive for such a 
proceeding on his part, as he stated in his manifesto 
against the outrages of Buonaparte, a paper which 
must affect all who peruse it, and excite their regret 
that the pope was not in a situation effectually to pre- 



63 

serve that independence which did such honour to his 
heart. 

The new-made emperor was not, however, to be 
reasoned with but by force ; and in about four years 
after the pope had placed the diadem on his head, he 
caused him to be removed from his capital as a prison- 
er, and united the Ecclesiastical States to the domin- 
ions of France. The 'spirit of the pope was still 
unsubdued, and he refused, for himself and his cardi- 
nals, all offers of subsistence from the usurper of their 
possessions. When urged to come to some agreement 
with Buonaparte, he ans-wcrcd that his regret at ha- 
ving accepted the late Concordat, would be a sufficient 
security against his being again deceived. And when 
the cardinals represented the evils which might result 
from his refusal, he answered, " Let me die worthy of 
the misfortunes I have suffered." On the 23d of Ja- 
nuary, 1814, the pope was removed from Fontainbleau> 
as were each of the seventeen cardinals, in custody of 
a gend'arme, and their destination was kept secret. 
But on the 5th of April following, the provisional go- 

yernment of France gave orders, that all obstacles to 

the return of the pope to his states might be removed ; 
and, after five years of confinement and outrage, Pius 
VII. returned to his capital, to receive the reward of 
th&tjinnness and moderation, which, blended so happi- 
ly in his character, will long render it an object of ad- 
miration. 

I next considered the character of the tyrant, who 
so long and so successfully triumphed over prostrate 



64 

Europe, England alone preserving unimpaired that 
liberty, which she was destined to be the means of dif- 
fusing to rival nations. It would be absurd to deny 
Buonaparte the praise due to the matchless activity, and 
consummate skill, with which he conducted the en- 
terprizes suggested by his boundless ambition ; and 
which made him the most formidable enemy with 
whom England ever had to contend ; but his cruelty, 
his suspicion, and his pride, (which made him equally 
disregard those laws of honour, and those precepts of 
morality, respected by the general feelings of mankind) 
as they excited the indignation of thinking men, pre- 
vented any pity at his fall. Such a man was destined 
only to excite astonishment, not admiration ; and that 
astonishment could not fail of being greatly diminished, 
by his want of extraordinary resources, when placed in 
a situation, upon the possibility of which he had dis- 
dained to calculate. 

His continued aggressions raised Europe against 
him from without, and he was overthrown, because he 
had completely disgusted the fickle people, whom he 

had made the instruments of hia ambition. 

It would surely require the pen of a Tacitus to de- 
lineate with accuracy the character of such a man, who, 
to use the words of the lamented Moreau, " had cov- 
ered the French name with such shame and disgrace, 
that it would be almost a disgrace to bear it ; and who 
had brought upon that unhappy country the curses and 
hatred of the universe," 



$5 

His ambitious wars are supposed to have occasioned 
the destruction of nearly four ?nillions of men, wuoin he 
considered merely as instruments to accomplish his 
extravagant views ; and he is reported to have said re- 
peatedly, that " it signified little whether or not he 
reigned over the French, provided he reigned over 
France." 

He delighted in carnage, and speaks in one of his 
bulletins of " 800 pieces of cannon dispersing death 
on all sides," as presenting " a most admirable spec- 
tacle." 

On Buonaparte's arrival from Egypt, he found things 
as favourable for his projected usurpation as his most 
sanguine hopes could have imagined. In the eighteen 
months which had preceded his arrival, there had 
arisen no fewer than four constitutions, and the French 
might well exclaim, " They have made us so many 
constitutions, that we have now none remaining !"— 
Wearied out with the succession of sanguinary fac- 
tions, each endeavouring to establish itself by pro- 
scriptions, banishments, and confiscations, France sub- 
mitted without opposition to the government of a ruler, 
who seemed sufficiently strong to keep all minor ty- 
rants in subjection ; and, despairing of freedom, sought 
only an interval of repose. This hope was, however, 
not destined to be realized, for Buonaparte soon pur- 
sued all those who presumed to oppose his schemes in 
the slightest degree with astonishing eagerness, and 
those who submitted with the most alacrity, were trea- 
ted only with contempt. 

6 2 



66 

He was hardly seated on his throne, before he spoke 
of making France a camp, and all the French soldiers. 
A long series of success made him despise those pre- 
cautions so necessary to insure it, and rendered his ca- 
tastrophe the more striking. 

The character given by Seneca of the Corsicans, has 
been quoted as applicable to the most famous charac- 
ter that island has ever produced : he says, " the lead- 
ing characteristics«of these islanders are revenge, theft, 
lying, and impiety." Over the downfall of such a man, 
the civilized world must rejoice ; but the contempla- 
tion of his character affords a salutary lesson to ambi- 
tion, which carried to excess, ruins that greatness it 
would so madly increase. 

The last years of his reign were distinguished by 
the number of plots which were pretended to be dis- 
covered, and proved the truth of a remark of Mary de 
Medicis, " That a false report believed during three 
days, tended to secure the crown on the head of an 
"usurper." 

But neither his guards, nor his police, could insure 
him a moment of repose. 

" Volvitur Ixion, et se sequiturque fugitque." 

Modern history has fully demonstrated a truth, which 
might have been collected from more ancient records, 
and of which England affords an illustrious example, 
that the attachment of a free and enlightened people 
is the only basis on which thrones can rest with se- 
curity. 



6T 

Having now sufficiently satisfied my curiosity at 
Fontainbieau, I determined on continuing my journey, 
(which I fear my reader may regret I did not do 
sooner) and I accordingly arrived at noon at Monte- 
reau, which is an inconsiderable town, but beautifully 
situated in a fertile plain, at the junction of the rivers 
Seine and Yonne. The bridges over those rivers had 
been partly broken down, to impede the progress of 
the allied troops in the late memorable campaign. 
They have been repaired with timber in a temporary 
manner, but cannot be considered as at all sufficiently 
secure for the passage of heavy carriages. Many of 
the houses in this town still exhibit abundant marks of 
bullets, but the country around appears in such a luxu- 
riant state of cultivation, that had I not myself seen 
the spot where a battle had been fought in the last 
spring, I could hardly have persuaded myself it had 
so lately been the theatre of war. 

I next reached Sens, a large and ancient city, but 
thinly inhabited, and with little marks of activity, al- 
though situated in a country abounding with all the 
conveniences of life, and possessing a situation on the 
rivers Vanne and Yonne, which seems to shame its in- 
habitants for their neglect of the commercial advan- 
tages they afford. 

The Cathedral is a venerable structure, and contains 
the tomb of the Dauphin, father of the present King, 
who died in 1765. — About sixteen English miles dis- 
tant is Joigny, beautifully situated on the Yonne, and 
surrounded on all sides by vineyards ; we now were 



68 

approaching one of the parts of France most famous 
for its wines. 

The road, which is in excellent repair, follows the 
windings of the river to Auxerre, which, although 
much less than Sens, has a more lively appearance, 
and the inhabitants seem to make more use of the fa- 
cilities which the river affords of communicating with 
Paris and the rest of the country. The churches here 
are handsome, the tower of one of them is said to have 
been built by the English. 

The vineyards in this neighbourhood are numerous, 
and the wine is much esteemed. 

I waited here for the arrival of the Paris Diligence, 
in which I proposed to proceed to Dijon, wishing not 
to leave France without having made trial of one of 
their public carriages. 

The appearance of that which I saw at Calais was 
much against it ; the one I met with here proved a 
very tedious conveyance, not going in general above 
three or four English miles an hour ; which, how- 
ever, is as much as could be expected from a car- 
riage which is scarcely less laden than many of our 
waggons. It was drawn by five horses, all managed 
by one postillion, mounted on one of tne wheel horses, 
and furnished with a vast and unwieldy pair of boots, 
cased with iron, and a long whip, which he is perpetu- 
ally employed in cracking. Another important per- 
sonage is Monsieur le Conducteur, who has the care 
of the luggage, &c. The French in general adhere to 
old customs, as well as the postillions to their anti- 



69 

quated boots ; their hour of dinner in general being 
from eleven to twelve o'clock, and seldom so late as 
one. This in England would be considered only as a 
Dejeuner a la Fourchette. The hour of supper is 
from seven to nine, according as the length of the sta- 
ges may determine. 

If the hour of a French dinner is singular to an En- 
glishman, the order in which it is served up is not less 
so. The soup (that great essential to a Frenchman) 
is always followed by bouilii, which having contributed 
to make the soup, is itself very tasteless. — Friccassees 
and poultry succeed ; then follow fish and vegetables, 
and last of all comes the roti, which, as I before had 
occasion to observe, is so much done as not to be very 
palatable. The pastry and desert conclude their din- 
ners, which certainly deserve the praise of being both 
cheap and abundant. The fruit is astonishingly cheap ; 
I have seen excellent peaches sell for a sous apiece. 
A traveller is not, however, in general disposed to 
criticise these singularities, either in the hour or order 
of the repast with too much severity, as the remark 
attributed to Alexander the Great, has probably been 
made by many of less celebrity, " that night travelling 
serves to give a better appetite than all the skill of 
confectioners." 

The general price of the Table d'Hote in France, 
including the vin ordinaire, is about three francs, 
which are at the present rate of exchange equal to 
about a shilling each. — Those who call for better wine 
pay of course extra, 



70 

The vin ordinaire, or common wine of Burgundy, is 
a pleasant beverage, little stronger than cider, but in 
many parts of France it is by no means palatable. The 
eider and beer in France are, with few exceptions, ex- 
tremely indifferent, and consequently little used. 



71 



CHAP. VI. 

My first day's journey in the Diligence was short 
and uninteresting. We arrived to sleep at Avalon, a 
small town partaking, in common with most others in 
France, of a degree of gloom occasioned by the want 
of those shops which enliven most of our country- 
towns. Here a few articles are placed in a window, to 
indicate that there is a larger supply to be had within. 
There are few towns in France which have not 3,/iublic 
place or walk, which is generally planted with trees, 
and kept in good order. Whilst supper was prepa- 
ring, we took a few turns on the promenade of Avalon, 
and found a considerable number of persons assembled 
there ; but were much shocked at the number and 
miserable appearance of the beggars who thronged 
around us. They are much too numerous in all parts 
of France, and particularly here. 

At an early hour next morning, we were summoned 
to resume our places in the Diligence ; these places 
are in general numbered, and each person takes his 
seat in the order in which he has paid his fare, a regu- 
lation which prevents any delay, and precludes disputes 
or ceremony. 

We continued our journey through the small towns 
of Rouvray and Viteaux , the country is diversified 
with hills, which are not of sufficient magnitude t© 



72 

present any great obstacle to the progress of the tra- 
veller. 

There are vast numbers of vineyards, but there are 
few trees. In this, as in all other wine countries, vil- 
lages and country houses are more numerous than in 
the districts producing only corn, either because the 
lands which produce vines are more valuable, and con- 
sequently are divided amongst a greater number of 
owners, or that the culture of the vine requires more 
people than other species of tillage. 

In one district, where corn was the chief crop, I en- 
quired respecting the usual mode of farming, and found 
that the land, which was this year under corn, was in- 
tended to be sown the next year with maize (of which 
there is a vast quantity) and the year following to lie 
fallow, after which it will be considered as again fit to 
produce corn. 

I found also, that the direct land-tax through France 
was not less than 20 per cent, exclusive of the other 
taxes which fall incidentally on landed property. There 
are also in many provinces customs which regulate the 
descent of land (often in a manner very different from 
the disposition which the owner would wish) amongst 
the relations of the last owner. These customs and 
the heavy taxes on land may account for the seemingly 
small price which it in general sells for throughout 
France. 

The approach to Dijon is striking, and the Dili- 
gence arrived there sufficiently early to afford us time 
to survey the city, which is one of the best built and 



most considerable in France. It was formerly the capi- 
tal of the province, and the residence of the ancient 
sovereigns of Burgundy, whose tombs are still to be seen 
at the Chartreuse, near the city. It is now the chief 
place in the department of the Cote d'or, and contains 
a population of about 22,000 inhabitants. It is situated 
between the small rivers Ouche and Suzon, in a valley, 
which is one of the most highly cultivated districts in 
France, and which is worthy of its name of Cote d'or. 
The churches here are handsome structures, as is 
also the palace of the Prince of Conde, where the Par- 
liament used to assemble. "The square before it is 
spacious and well-built, and the corn market is worthy 
of remark. The University of Dijon was formerly 
one of the most considerable in France, but my- stay 
was not sufficient, to enable me to enquire with accu- 
racy into its present state. Our company next day 
was augmented by two French officers, who were go- 
ing to Besancon, and who intended proceeding in this 
carriage as far as Dole, where smaller conveyances 
were to be had for those going to Geneva, Sec. as the 
Great Voiture went on to Lyons. These officers did not 
long continue silent, and politics seemed the subject 
which occupied the first place in their thoughts. — 
They said that Belgium and the Rhine were indispen- 
sable to France, and were particularly violent against 
Austria, for the part she had taken in the late contest. 
One oi them did not affect to conceal his attachment 
to the ex-Emperor; but the other, although he agreed 
with his companion in wishing, for a renewal of the 

H 



74 

war, did not seem at all pleased with Buonaparte for 
having said the French nation wanted character. They 
had both been at Moscow, and acknowleged that the 
Emperor had committed a capital error in not retreat- 
ing in time from what he himself acknowledged to be 
such a frightful climate. 

If a public carriage has not all the comfort and ex- 
pedition of a private one, it certainly has this advantage, 
that one often meets companions from whom may be 
derived amusement or information ; and I think those 
who travel with a view to either of those objects, would 
do well occasionally to go in one of those conveyances. 
In a foreign country, the attention of the traveller is 
continually attracted by a variety of objects of a novel 
nature, which can be best explained to him by the in- 
habitants of the country : besides, it is impossible to 
have any correct idea of the manners and customs of 
foreigners, without constantly associating with them, 
which, in general, English travellers do not much de- 
sire. Whilst abroad, I would wish to accommodate 
myself as much as possible, to the habits of the country 
in which I were to reside, but if I found them irksome, 
I would certainly hasten my departure. 

We reached Dole about the French hour of dinner : 
here our company separated, and, accompanied by a 
friend, I continued my journey to Geneva. The road 
which we took is only practicable during four or five 
months in the year, on account of the snow which is 
drifted from the mountains of Jura. Near Auxonne 
we passed a plain, where a battle had been fought be- 



75 

twcen the French and the Allied forces. Many houses 
had been destroyed, but the agriculture of the country- 
did not seem to have suffered by the contest. We 
passed through the village of Genlis, and within sight 
of the Chateau, the property of the lady of that name, 
well known by her numerous writings and compila- 
tions. 

We arrived late at Poligny, a small town, surround- 
ed by lofty mountains. On leaving the place, one hill 
occupies three hours in ascending; but the road is as 
good as the uneven surface of the country will permit. 
The people here begin to have quite a different appear- 
ance from the French : wooden shoes are generally 
worn; and the projecting roofs of the houses show 
that the climate is more rainy and severe than in the 
countries we had passed. In this vicinity are some of 
the finest forests I had yet seen in France, and the 
views from the road are occasionally interesting,— 
About two leagues from Poligny is Arbois, famous for 
its white wine. We had a bottle by way of experi- 
ment, and thought it not undeserving of the reputation 
it had acquired. A Frenchman observed, u Le vin 
rS est pas mauvais" which phrase may bo taken for a 
commendation, as they seldom carry their praise so 
far as to say a thing is positively good. The coun- 
try between Poligny and Moray exhibits a continued 
succession of fir-trees, unmixed with any thing to 
give variety to the scene. The woods, however, seem 
to afford shelter to but few birds ; and in most parts of 
the continent, even the singing-birds are not spared, 



73 

but included in the general proscription to gratify 
the palate of the epicure. 

We arrived to an English breakfast at Moray ; they 
told us its honey was in great repute throughout 
France, and we thought in deserved more than the 
ordinary commendation of a Frenchman. Every thing 
here was neat and clean, and both the town and appear- 
ance of its inhabitants brought North Wales strongly 
to my recollection. This being a frontier place, the 
French custom-house officers put seals on our port- 
manteaus, for which favour we paid two francs for 
each seal ; these were cut off with great formality on 
our arrival at Geneva. After having travelled for ma- 
ny hours amongst a succession of gloomy mountains, 
which afford nothing that can either interest or en- 
liven, I never recollect feeling a greater sensation of 
delight and astonishment, than when, from the summit 
of one of the mountains of Jura, I first beheld the lake 
and city of Geneva, backed by the mountains of Savoy, 
and by the Alps, which, even at this vast distance, 
made all the other mountains we had passed ap- 
pear but trivial. 

It is by contrast that all pleasures are heightened, and 
even the tour which I afterwards made amongst the 
Alps, did not lessen the force of that impression which 
the sudden appearance of this magnificent spectacle 
had left upon my mind. The road down the mountain 
is an astonishing work, and is part of the grand line of 
road made by Buonaparte, to facilitate the passage 
of troops into Italy over the Grand Simplon. A 



fountain near the road has an inscription to Napoleon 
th« Great; in one part the road winds through an. 
excavation in the rock. One cannot but here exclaim 
with the poet, 

What cannot Art and Industry perform, 
When science plans the progress of their toil * 

At Fernay we visited the Chateau, so long celebra- 
ted as the residence of Voltaire. It is now the proper- 
ty and residence of M. de Boudet, who, as we were 
informed, has made great improvements in the place 
since it has come into his possession. 

The saloon and bed-chamber of Voltaire are, howe- 
ver, preserved in exactly the same state as when he 
occupied them. There are a few portraits of his 
friends, and under his bust is this incription : 

" S:r.i esprit est partout et son coeur est ici." 

" His genius is every where, but his heart is here. 4 * 

His Cenotafi/i, as it is called, has a miserable mean 
appearance, and bears this inscription: 

" Mes manes sont consoles puisque mon cosur 
" Est au milieu de vous." 

• c My manes are consoled since my heart is with you.'* 

The formal taste in which the garden is laid out, 
but ill accords with the stupendous scenery which 
is seen on all sides. The approach to the Chateau 

IT ° 



from the road is through a double avenue of trees. 
Near the house stands the parish-church, and also a 
Heliconian fountain in the disguis. of a pump, of ex- 
cellent water, which we tasted, but without experien- 
cing any unusual effects. We had not leisure to pro- 
long our researches, as it was necessary for us to 
reach Geneva before the closing of the gates. If the 
first and distant appearance of the city of Geneva, of 
its beautiful lake, and of the lofty mountains by which 
it is surrounded, produces the strongest sensations of 
delight in the beholder, a nearer approach is not (as is 
too frequently the case) calculated to do away, or, at 
least, greatly to diminish the impression made by the 
distant view. 

Having, after a long descent, at length reached the 
Plain, the traveller cannot fail of being delighted with 
the richly cultivated scene which surrounds him, with 
the neatness of the villages, and with the apparent ease 
of the inhabitants of a country where property seems 
pretty equally divided, and where he is not shocked 
(as he is unhappily too generally throughout Europe) 
by the melancholly contrast between the splendour of 
the opulent, and the extreme misery of the peasantry. 
Here the peasant, as Goldsmith observes, 

Sees no contiguous p ilace rear its head, 
To shame the meaness of his humble shed ; 
Cheerful at morn, he wakes from short repose, 
Breathes the keen air and carols as he goes. 

The situation of Geneva is as striking as can be well 
imagined. It seems to rise out of the transparent waters 



79 

of its lake. Some tourists tells us, that, Naples and 
Constantinople excepted, no city in Europe can be com- 
pared to Geneva in point of situation, and those who 
have ascended the towers of its cathedral, will feel 
disposed to admit, that the prospect of the lake, the 
junction of the river Rhone with the Arve, the number 
of villas dispersed on all sides, the scene of cultivation 
which the nearer mountains present, almost to their 
summits, and the imposing effect produced by the 
more distant Alps, whose bases rest in Itally, and 
whose tops, covered with perpetual snow seem to unite 
with the clouds, present a spectacle which it would be 
indeed difficult to surpass. 

" While admiration, feeding at the eye 



And still unsated, dwells upon the scene," 

Cowper. 

The lake of Geneva (which, according to M. de 
Luc, is 187 toises, or 1203 English feet above the 
level of the Miditerranean Sea) is one of the most con- 
siderable in Europe, being about eighteen leagues in 
length, by about three and a half at its greatest width. 
Its waters are at this season about six feet higher than 
in the winter, and are of a beautiful blue colour, derived 
from the nature of the soil beneath. Its depth, near 
Meillerie, is 190 fathoms, that of the Baltic, according 
to Dr. Goldsmith, being only 1 15 fathoms. This lake 
abounds with fish of various kinds. I myself saw a 
trout of tivcntij-three pounds, and there have occasion- 
ally been taken of nearly double that weight. T.:ese 
extraordinarily large fish are often presented by the 



80 

republic to its allies, and are frequently sent as far as 
Paris or Berlin. The Rhone issuing, with vast rapi- 
dity, from the lake forms an island which is covered 
with houses, and constitutes the lower part of the city, 
which rises to the summit of the hill, where stand the 
cathedral and many elegant private houses. The city 
is, in general, tolerably well built; but many of the 
streets have domes, or arcades of wood, which are 
frequently fifty or sixty feet in height, and which 
have an elegant appearance, but are useful in the winter, 
and under some of them are rows of shops, containing 
every article of luxury or utility, in equal perfection 
with those that are to be met with in some of the great- 
est cities. 

Here is every appearance of the activity produced 
by the revival of commerce, after the long prohibition 
it suffered during the period whilst Geneva remained 
united to France. 

Tne cnief manufacture of Geneva is that of clocks 
and watches ; in the period of the prosperity of Gene- 
va, this trade was calculated to afford employment to 
five or six thousand persons, but at present it is much 
reduced. There are a considerable number of gold- 
smiths, and the ingenuity of the Genevese, produces 
very curious musical-watches, snuff-boxes, and seals, 
many of which are sent to Paris and London, where 
they find a ready sale ; they are sent likewise to Persia 
and America. There are considerable manufactures 
also of calico, muslin, &c. and a good deal of banking 
business is transacted. Perhaps there is no example 



81 

of a city so destitute of territory ', which has obtained 
such commercial celebrity, and the persevering indus- 
try of its inhabitants, enabled them to place large sums 
of money in the funds of other nations, particularly of 
England. The revenues of the state are much exceed- 
ed by those of many individuals ; but, during the op- 
pressive government of France, the taxes of Geneva 
were nearly quadrupled. 

The population of Geneva and its territory, having 
been so differently stated as to leave the truth involved 
in much uncertainty, M. Naville, a senator, who pos- 
sessed every facility for making the necessary inqui- 
ries, published a calculation, which assigns to the re- 
public a population of 35,000, of which number 26,000 
resided in the city. This is a very large number, if we 
consider that the territory of this little state is so limi- 
ted as, according to Bourritt's Itinerary, to contain only 
3 t<5o square leagues; being about 11,400 inhabitants 
to each square league. Bat, contracted as their terri- 
tory certainly is, those citizens of Geneva, with whom 
I have conversed, do not seem to wish its extension. 
They fear the introduction of religious dissentions, as 
the Savoyards, (on which side it could be most easily 
extended) are Roman Catholics, and by no means cor- 
dial with their neighbours, the Hugunots of Geneva, as 
they call them. Nor would the nobility of Savoy wish 
to be the subjects of so popular a government as that 
of Geneva. Religious differences have, at all times, 
been productive of the worst species of civil discord, 
and the Genevese (although they tolerate most fully all 



'aa 



religious sects) are undoubtedly stronger at present. 
with their limited possessions, than they possibly could 
be with any increase of territory, accompanied by the 
chance of such unfortunate dissensions. 

All they seem desirous of, at present, is to see their 
little state consolidated ; it being at present intersected 
by the possessions of France, the Canton of Vaud, he. 
in such a manner as to oblige the Genevese to pass 
over some portion of the territories of those states, in 
visiting many of their own villages. But more of Ge- 
neva hereafter, as although I had so recently arrived 
therfe, I was soon to quit it for a short time. 

I found at my hotel a party, consisting of two of my 
countrymen and a French gentleman, who were waiting 
for a fourth person to join them, in making an excur- 
sion to the celebrated scenes of Chamouny and Mon- 
tanvert. 

This was an opportunity not to be neglected, par- 
ticularly as my former companion had determined on 
going into Italy, notwithstanding the very alarming 
accounts of its disturbed state, given us by some tra- 
vellers, lately arrived from thence, who had themselves 
been robbed, and who reported that the banditti, in 
many of the mountains, amounted to from 500 to 1500 
men. The unsettled political state of Italy too, ren- 
dered the present, in my opinion, by no means an aus- 
picious moment, for an excursion of curiosity into that 
country. To see Italy well would occupy a longer 
portion of time than I had at my disposal, and if once 
across the Alps, it would be almost impossible to return 



without visiting Rome. Under these circumstances, I 
resolved to content myself with seeing Chamouny and 
Mt. Blanc, and I had every reason to be pleased with 
my determination, as the party were extremely agree- 
able, and we had the good fortune of having fine wea- 
ther for our excursion, an occurrence which is rare 
amongst such lofty mountains ; nor were we disposed 
to complain of the inconvenience of occasional showers 
in a country where it is not unusual for the rains to 
continue without intermission for many days. 



84 



CHAP. VII. 

Having made the necessary arrangements in the 
evening, our carriage was in readiness, at an early hour 
next morning. It was something like an English so- 
ciable, but had a leather cover which could occasion- 
ally be drawn over our heads, and of which we more 
than once experienced the utility, in protecting us from 
the very sudden and violent showers which we some- 
times met with. As soon as the rain was over, we 
drew back the cover, and enjoyed the romantic pros- 
pects which surrounded us. From Geneva we ascen- 
ded continually through a wild but not uninteresting 
country to Bonneville, a distance of about five leagues; 
here we breakfasted, and remained two or three hours 
to allow our horses to repose from the fatigues of the 
road. This little town has nothing particularly worthy 
of remark, and its appearance is dull, although it is the 
chief place of one of the three divisions which are 
formed of Savoy. Here is a bridge of stone (which is 
not usual in this country, where timber abounds, and 
where many of the rivers are so rapid* as to oblige the 
inhabitants to remove the bridges, at the commence- * 
ment of autumn) over the river Arve, t the course of 
which we followed for several leagues through the" 
valley of Cluse, so called from the little town of that 



name. This long and narrow district is surrounded 
by lofty mountains, and the traveller is often at a los^ 
to guess which way he can proceed, until some sudden 
turning discovers an outlet, barely sufficient to admit 
the passage of a carriage, and by various windings he 
arrives in the valley of Maglan, which presents a still 
more interesting variety of objects, amongst others the 
cascade of Nant d'Arpennas and many other inferior 
ones, which tumble from the mountains, and increase 
the rapidity of the Arve. About a league beyond the 
fall d'Arpennas is an excellent view of Mont Blanc, 
which crowned with all the horrors of a perpetual win- 
ter, presents one of the most sublime and majestic 
spectacles which it is possible to conceive. To de- 
scribe the contrast between its snowy summit, and the 
cultivated valley beneath, so as to convey any just idea 
of the scene, to those who have not themselves seen it, 
would require all the descriptive powers of a Radcliffc. 
We arrived to a late dinner at the hotel de Mont Blanc, 
at St. Martin, which is a large single house situated 
about a quarter of a league from the little town of Sa- 
lenche, of which I do not recollect having heard any 
thing remarkable, except that the right of burgership 
may be purchased for forty-five livres. The windows 
of our hotel, commanded a most astonishing extent of 
mountain scenery, diversified by the windings of the 
Arve through a well cultivated valley. The hotel was 
sufficiently comfortable, but the bill was extravagant 
beyond any precedent in the annals of extortion. We 
had occasion to remonstrate with our host on the sub- 



86 

ject, and our French companion exerted himself so 
much on the occasion, that at last we succeeded in 
persuading the landlord to make a considerable reduc- 
tion in his charges, which were out of all reason, ma- 
king every allowance that his house was so situated, as 
not to be accessible during the whole year. We were 
afterwards told that he would have considered himself 
amply paid by receiving the half of his first demand, 
and I found it is often the practice to ask of the En- 
glish at least double of what is charged to travellers 
of any other nation. Appearances were so much 
against our landlord, that one might say to him in the 
words of the epigram, " If thou art honest , thou'rt a 
wondrous cheat:' 

The carriage road ends at Salenche ; and we, there- 
fore, made the necessary arrangements to proceed on 
mules, and sent back our carriage to Geneva. It was 
the first time I had travelled in a country only accessi- 
ble on foot o?* by mules, and I cannot but add my testi- 
mony to that of all those who have ever made excur- 
sions into these mountains, respecting the very extra- 
ordinary and almost incredible safety with which the 
mule conveys his rider over tracks, which were any 
one to see suddenly, coming out of a civilized country, 
he would think it „the height of folly to attempt to pass 
even on foot. There are, however, places where it is 
expedient to climb for one's self, but as long as one 
remains on the back of the mule, it is advisable not to 
attempt to direct his course, but to submit one's rea- 
son for the time to the instinct of the animal. Our 



87 

guides assured me that they had never known a single 
instance of any one's having had reason to regret ha." 
ving placed this confidence in them ; and, indeed, it is 
by having the command of his head that the mule is 
enabled to carry his rider in safety over passes, which 
one is often afraid to recal to one's memory. Several 
of the mules in Savoy are handsome, but one of our 
party, who had crossed the Pyrenean mountains, 
thought the Spanish mules were much more so ; the 
ordinary price of a mule here, is from fourteen to 
twenty Louis d'Ors. 

The distance between St. Martin and Chamouny, is 
little more than six leagues, but from the extreme in- 
equality of the ground, and the intricacy of the paths, 
occupied a very long space of time in passing. We 
still continued to follow the course of the Arve, which, 
according to the opinions of some writers, is believed 
to have, at one period, formed a lake between the 
mountains which encompass this valley ; a conjecture 
which the marshy appearance of the ground seems to 
render probable. 

These mountains abound with an animal which is 
mostly an inhabitant of the Alps, the marmot, and there 
are a vast abundance of wild strawberries. The river 
is most considerable at this season of the year, being 
supplied with the meltings of the snow and ice. About 
two hours after our departure from St. Martin, we 
passed over the Pont des Chevres, which, from the 
extreme slightness of its construction, seems hardly 
secure enough to permit the passage of a goat ; and it 



88 

is* rendered more formidable to the nervous traveller 
by its vast height from the bed of the rocky torrent 
over which it passes. 

We went a little way out of the regular track to see 
the beautiful cascade of Chede, which is by M. Bour- 
ritt ascertained to be sixty-seven feet in height. A 
number of peasants attended us from a cottage, where 
we left our mules, and one of them carried a plank to 
serve as a bridge over a neighbouring stream, and 
levied toll on us for permission to pass over it. We 
returned in about a quarter of an hour to the cottage, 
and paid, as we thought, very liberally for the trouble 
the peasants had in holding the mules during that short 
time ; but where expectations are unreasonable, it is 
impossible to satisfy them ; and that was the case here. 
One old woman, in particular, exclaimed against us. 
She said, " We nvere English, and ought to give gold. 9 * 
Such is the idea entertained, even in these secluded 
mountains, of the riches of the English, that a sum, 
which would be received with thanks from the travel- 
lers of almost any other country, would be considered 
as an object of complaint if given by an Englishman; 
and the thoughtless profusion of some English travel- 
lers is a subject of regret to many persons, who, 
although less opulent, are still desirous of visiting 
foreign countries, as the inhabitants of the Continent, 
in general, receive from some of our fellow-subjects 
such an idea of the opulence of their country, that they 
think it impossible to charge all who come from thence 
too extravagantly. We next proceeded to the lake of 



89 

Chede, which is not far distant. It was first discover 
ed by M. Bourritt, when hunting a wolf amongst these 
mountains, as he mentions in his Itinerary, which con- 
tains much useful information, and is a necessary ap- 
pendage to the traveller in these wild districts. This 
lake, considering its limited extent, is a handsome 
object. Here is a curious species of moss which gives 
the banks a singular appearance. We stopped to 
breakfast, as well as to refresh our mules, at a little 
cottage-inn near the village of Servoy, in the neigh- 
bourhood of which are mines of lead and copper, to- 
gether with many large buildings and furnaces for the 
preparation of the ore. We here met another party 
also going to Chamouny They had preferred travel- 
ling in little carriages drawn by mules, which they 
were obliged to quit continually, by the uneven nature 
of the road ; and they did not arrive till some time 
after us. We here found that one of our party was 
mounted on the mule which had lately had the honour 
of carrying the Ex-Empress Maria Louisa, who passed 
this way on her tour to Chamouny. She is said to 
have appeared very thoughtful ; but the guides praised 
both her courage and her beauty. 

We breakfasted with the other travellers, under the 
shade of an orchard, near the inn ; and the repast was 
much more luxurious than we could have supposed' 
from the rustic appearance of the place. As soon as 
the guides informed us that they were ready to attend 
us, we continued our journey to Chamouny, making 
another little detour to visit the glacier dee Bos-sons. 



96 

Here we were astonished at the singular appearance 
which was exhibited by a vast number of pyramids and 
towers of ice, many of them upwards of 100 feet in 
height, and which remained at this season almost in 
the centre of a valley richly cultivated and well inhabir 
ted. The definition of the word glacier has given rise 
to several arguments. I shall therefore insert that 
given by the celebrated M. de Saussure, in his tour 
amongst the Alps, of which he was one of the first and 
most able explorers. He says, " The word glacier 
designates any one of those cavities, natural or artifi- 
cial, which preserve the ice, or guard it from the rays 
of the sun." This glacier is only three quarters of a 
league from-. Chamouny, or the priory, where we soon 
arrived. The valley of Chamouny is about eighteen 
English miles long, and hardly one in breadth. It is 
as varied a scene as can possibly be imagined ; and no 
where can the contrast between nature in its wild and 
in its cultivated state, make a more forcible impres- 
sion on the mind. 

Many of the farms here are very neat. They sow 
the grain in May, and reap in August. 

We remarked several small chapels and crosses 
where promises of indulgence for thirty days are held 
out to those persons who shall repeat there a certain 
number of prayers. One of these chapels, more spa- 
cious than the rest, was constructed by a bishop of Sion. 
The village of Chamouny is not large, but contains 
several extremely good inns, which, since the opening 
of the Continent? have had their full share of English 



91 

travellers, whose names, in the books of the hotel 
where we lodged, more than doubled those of all other 
nations wno had visited the various grand scenes with 
which this country abounds ; and the most lucrative 
employment here is that of a guide. Strangers are 
often much imposed on by them, and should therefore 
be careful to get recommended to such as will conduct 
them safely to ali that is curious. We met a party 
who had been deceived by either the ignorance or la- 
ziness of their guides ; and who, we found, after spend- 
ing two or three days in exploring this neighbourhood, 
had seen but a small portion of what is worthy of atten- 
tion. The air here is of a very wintry temperature. 
This, however, is not astonishing, when we consider 
that this place is situated 500 toises, or 2,040 feet 
above the lake of Geneva, and 3,168 feet above the 
level of the sea, but 11,532 feet below the summit of 
Mont Blanc. 

Chamouny is the chief place in the commune to 
which it gives name, and which is inhabited by a 
remarkably hardy and intelligent peasantry. I was 
informed that the Austrians obliged this district to 
furnish 100 cows, a vast quantity of cheese, butter, 
tec. See. ; but the inhabitants were so much rejoiced at 
being released from the French yoke, that they did not 
complain of these exactions. As far as I could judge, 
the wish of the young men here seems to be, that Sa- 
voy should form a canton of Switzerland ; but the old 
men, who formerly lived under the govornment of the 
King of Sardinia, wish for the restoration of the order 



92 

of things to which they were long accustomed ; and it 
seems most probable that the King of Sardinia will be 
restored to that part of this ancient patrimony of his 
family which has not been ceded to France The Sa- 
voyards complain of this division of their country. The 
part assigned to France is the most valuable district, 
and forms above a third of the duchy : in it is situated 
its ancient capital, Chambery. It is, however, not pro- 
bable that the wishes of the Savoyards will be consul- 
ted as to these points, which will be determined by the 
Allied Powers on the grounds of fiolitical expediency. 

I also made inquiries concerning the state of taxa- 
tion in Savoy, and found, that under France the inhabi- 
tants were obliged to pay more than three times the 
sum they had paid to Sardinia. The imposts were 
here the same as in the rest of France, no distinction 
having been made between this mountainous country 
and the other more productive departments. Doors 
and windows are amongst the articles taxed, and the 
stamp duties are very heavy. 

Having refreshed ourselves sufficiently to encounter 
fresh difficulties, we determined to visit Montanvert, 
and the Mer de Glace, two of the most distinguished 
objects of curiosity which this place boasts of. Having 
provided ourselves with guides and mules, we set out 
accordingly ; and, after quickly passing the narrow 
valley, began to ascend mountains which abound with 
chamois, and which, by their height and irregularity, 
seemed to render our arrival on their summit an event 
not speedily to be expected. We had more reason 



than ever to be astonished at the extraordinary security 
with which our mules carried us up such abrupt as- 
cents, which in many places more resembled a flight 
of steps, hewn roughly in a rock, than a practicable 
road, and there were in many places hardly any marks 
to shew which was the preferable way. 

After a continual ascent of between two and three 
hours, we were advised to send back our mules to wait 
our return in the valley, and to continue our way on 
foot, which we did accordingly, being provided with 
long sticks, pointed with iron, to assist us in climbing 
the remainder of the ascent. Our arrival on the sum- 
mit amply repaid us for the toil which it had cost us : 
the view is not to be described ;— before us lay the Mer 
de Glace (sea of ice) extending to the length of four 
leagues, and being about three quarters of a league in 
width ; which is one of the most sublime spectacles in 
nature. Around us were mountains much more ele- 
vated than those which cost us so much trouble in as- 
cending, which consisting of granite, dispersed in the 
most majestic forms, and being the perpetual abode of 
frosts, storms, and tempests, leave a most awful im- 
pression on the mind. It is impossibie to behold these 
stupendous scenes without, in the language of the 
Psalmist, " ascribing unto the Lord worship and 
power." 

Although we had ascended not less than three thou- 
sand feet, yet to our astonishment, Mont Blanc appeared 
nearly as elevated as when we viewed it from the val- 
ley. It is unquestionably the highest mountain in the 



94 

three old quarters of the world (being exceeded in 
height only by the Andes) ; and I shall insert here the 
calculations of its elevation, and of that of some other 

mountains : 

English feet. 
Chimboraco, the highest of the Cor- 
dilleras 20,608 

Mont Blanc, above the level of the 
Mediterranean, according to Sir G. 

Shuckburgh 15,662 

Ditto, according to M. de Luc - - 1 5,302 *. 
Mount Caucasus - 15,000 

Etna, according to M. de Saussure 10,700 

Teneriffe .----_ 10,954 

The highest mountain in Scotland is Ben-Nevis, 
4,327 feet. In Wales, Snowdon, 3,555. In England, 
Ingleborough, 3,200 feet. In Ireland, Croagh Pa- 
trick, 2,666. 

Mont Blanc is easily distinguished from amongst 
the other mountains (of which Mont Buet, of 9,984 
feet in height approaches the nearest to it) when seen 
on this side, by the astonishing altitude to which it 
rises, and by the vast body of snow with which its top 
and sides are covered to the perpendicular height of 
above 4000 feet, without the intervention of any rock, 
to take off from that extreme whiteness that gives 
name to this mountain, uniting in the circular form of 
its summit all the majesty that can possibly be ima- 
gined. We partook of some refreshment in an apart- 
ment on the summit of Montanvert, which the extreme 



95 

coicl of the atmosphere rendered very acceptable.— 
Having enrolled our names in a book kept here for 
that purpose, which abounds with the praises of all 
travellers who have viewed these scenes, we descended 
to the Mer de Glace, which is appropriately so named, 
from the striking resemblance which its broken masses 
of ice bear to the waves of the ocean, and the resem- 
blance is still further heightened by the blue appear- 
ance which the numerous cavities present to the eye. 
We walked a little way on this frozen ocean, the better 
to contemplate its vast extent, as well as to have it in 
our power to boast of having walked on a mass of ice 
in the month of August. The depth of the ice is cal- 
culated to be from three to four hundred feet, and the 
solemnity of this scene of desolation is increased by the 
sound of several torrents tumbling from the surround- 
ing rocks. We again returned to the summit of Mon- 
tanvert, and were again lost in astonishment at the 
scene ; which did not fail to recall to my recollection 
the beautiful lines of Pofie, in his Essay on Criticism : 

So pleas'd at first the tow'ring Alps we try, 
Mount o'er the vales, and seem to tread the sky, 
Th' eternal snows appear already past, 
And the first clouds and mountains seem the last, 
But, those attain'd, we tremble to survey 
The growing labours of the leng-then'd way, 
Th' increasing prospect tires our wand'ring eyes, 
Hills peep o'er hiLs, and Alps on Alps arise. 

Having sufficiently contemplated the view, we began 
to think of returning to the valley, which presented a 



96 

most enlivening appearance after the chaos we had 
left. The descent was much easier than the ascent, 
and we were not long before we met our mules, and 
returned to our inn in great prosperity, although we 
had, most of us, occasional falls during so difficult a 
progress. 

We had great reason to be pleased with our expedi- 
tion, and were most fortunate in the clearness of the 
day, without which our labour would have been lost. 
The valley is, of course, much more mild in its atmos- 
phere than the mountain, but the weather was autum- 
nal, and a fire was quite indispensable to our comfort. 
There are no less \h?xijive glaciers in this valley ; they 
are separated from each other by forests and by culti- 
vated lands, and this intermixture presents an appear- 
ance which, from its singularity, cannot fail to astonish 
the beholder. These glaciers all lie at the foot of that 
vast chain of mountains, which supply the sources of 
many of the greatest rivers in Europe. I observed 
that the mountains in this vicinity were the first I had 
seen enlivened by the mixture of the larch with the fir, 
which produces a very pleasing effect, and continues 
afterwards to be often seen. The vast quantities of 
Alpine strawberries that every where abound on these 
mountains, have a most excellent flavor, and numbers 
of children employed in gathering them find ready 
sale among the numerous strangers, attracted by the 
wonders of the neighbourhood. These Alps possess 
great attractions for the botanist, who is surrounded by 
saxafrage, rhododendrons, and a variety of other plants, 



97 

which he must highly value, but which I have not suf- 
ficient knowledge of the science to distinguish particu- 
larly. Nor would the mineralogist find fewer attrac- 
tions in the rocks themselves, than the botanist in the 
plants which they produce. We did not witness any 
of those avalanches which are said to fall so frequently 
from the mountains, and of the dreadful effects of 
which such interesting statements have been published. 
The whole of this valley, however, appears to be con- 
tinually threatened, by the enormous masses which 
hang over it, and seem to need the application of but a 
trifling force, to move them from situations, to which 
they are to all appearance so slightly attached. 



98 



CHAP. VIII. 

We left Chamouny at an early hour to proceed on 
our way to Martigny, from which it is nine leagues 
distant; but as there is nothing which deserves the 
name of a road, we continued on our journey on mules. 
The morning was so very hazy, that we were prevent- 
ed from enjoying the prospect from the Col de Balme, 
and we travelled for several hours amongst mountains, 
at one moment enveloped in the fog, which was some- 
times the next instant carried to a considerable dis- 
tance from us, by one of those sudden currents of air 
which are so common in these elevated situations.— 
As we approached Valorsine, the rain began to fall, 
but fortunately it was not of long continuance, and af- 
terwards the weather became much clearer. 

Nothing can surpass the romantic situation of this 
little village, its valley is one of the most secluded we 
had yet seen amongst the Alps The impression 
which this scene has left on my mind, can never be 
effaced; every thing presented an appearance of tran- 
quillity, and of extreme simplicity. It was the feast 
of the patron saint of the village, and the peasants were 
in their best dresses. The women were of a better ap- 
pearance than is usual in Savoy ; their dress attracted 
the particular attention of our French companion, who 
had never before quitted his own country, and who had 



99 

previously expressed a contempt for Savoy, which he 
now seemed willing to retract; and certainly it would 
be difficult to see a spot where primitive simplicity was 
more conspicuous. We determined to refresh ourselves 
here, and afterwards went through the village to the 
church, which was decorated with flowers for the fes- 
tival ; and during our walk we were saluted with the 
utmost civility by the peasants, who surveyed us with 
a curiosity which proved that they had but little inter- 
course with strangers. A Monk saluted me, and said 
in Latin he was rejoiced again to see Englishmen. — 
In one of the groups, I observed a fortune-teller, who 
seemed to have a good deal of custom, but her dialect 
was one of the most singular I ever heard. The inn 
where we breakfasted, like most of the houses here* 
was raised on beams, to allow for the depth of the 
snow in winter. They are built of timber, and cover- 
ed with pieces of fir, cut to about the size of tiles.-— 
The rooms were very small, and could with difficulty 
accommodate the unusual number of guests then as- 
sembled Civility was more abundant than provisions, 
but there was more fruit than one could expect to ses 
amongst these mountains. 

If the peasants of Meillcrie, which is the part of 
Savoy Rousseau took so much pleasure in describing, 
at all resemble those of Valorsine, he cannot there at 
least be accused of having dealt in fiction. M. de 
Saussure relates an anecdote which serves to give an 
idea of the Savoyards in these situations, so rem 
from the corruption incident to cities. He says, "I 



100 

was one day prosecuting my researches amongst the 
Alps, and being without provisions, was induced to 
take some fruit not far distant from a cottage. I ob- 
served a woman coming towards me, as I concluded, 
to ask payment for the fruit ; and I assured her I had 
no intention of going away without satisfying her, 
She answered, ' 1 came out thinking you had lost your 
way, and that I might be able to set you right. As for 
the fruit, I will take nothing for it. He who made it, 
did not intend it for the use of one in particular." 

We had not yet performed above half our journey 
and as it was getting late, we were obliged by the re- 
presentation of our guides to continue on our road, 
which lay through a romantic district, abounding with 
streams and falls of water. Some of the fir-trees on 
the Tete Noire opposite to us, are said to be above 100 
feet in height. We were after the first league fre- 
quently obliged to dismount, having in some places 
literally to ascend steps cut it the rock, which I think 
must have not a little puzzled two gentlemen, who set 
out on horseback about the same time we did from 
Chamouny, but who did not reach Martigny for a long 
time after us, and were greatly tired with the difficul- 
ties they had to encounter. 

The village of Trient is in a romantic situation, but 
has not the same attractions as Valorsine. The hill 
near it is astonishingly difficult of ascent. The guides 
wished us to let the mules shift for themselves ; and 
we all at last arrived at the summit. An hour after- 
wards, we reached the Mount. Fourcle^ from whieh is 



101 

seen a vast extent of country. This view is by some 
travellers considered as surpassing all others in Swit- 
zerland, as it embraces the greatest part of the Can- 
ton of the Valais, watered by the Rhone; and we 
could distinctly see its capital city Sion, although 
above eight leagues distant. Martigny and St. Bran- 
chier seemed to lie at our feet ; but we had still a long 
way to descend before we reached them. The city of 
Sion will long be remembered as the scene of one of 
the most horrible of those outrages which cast such a 
just odium on the French name. It was given up to 
the savage fury of an army irritated by the brave but 
ineffectual resistance, which its inhabitants attempted 
to oppose against the invaders of their property and 
liberty. But here, as in too many other instances? 
numbers occasioned the worse to prevail over the bet- 
ter cause. A person on whose authority I can confide, 
assured me he was at Geneva, when a part of the 
French army arrived there after this glorious exploit, 
and that rather than return without plunder, they car- 
ried away with them the miserable household furni- 
ture of these unfortunate people, which sold at Gene- 
va for a sum so trifling as hardly to pay for the ex- 
pense of conveying them thither. It may seem i?i~ 
credible, but it is however true, that many of the inhabi- 
tants of the Valois, regret the recovery of their inde» 
fiendence, and would wish again to see their country 
in the possession of the French. They prefer the ad- 
vantages which Buonaparte's military road, and the 
frequent passage of his troops into Italy afforded them 

R 2 



102 

of making money, to their present liberty under a go- 
vernment of their own selection. 

The country, for about a league before the entrance 
into Martigny, becomes much more civilized than that 
we had just passed. The fields are well cultivated, 
and are divided by hedges from the road: here are 
some of the largest walnut trees I have ever seen. 

On the lett we remarked the venerable and exten- 
sive remains of la Bathia, an ancient castle, formerly 
inhabited by the Bishops of Sion. It is boldly situated 
on a rock, w.iich rises over that impetuous torrent the 
Dreuse, which a little below falls into the Rhone. 

The town of Martigny is situated on the Rnone, in 
that delightful plain which we had so much admired 
from the Fourcle, and which did not disappoint the ex- 
pectations we had formed of it. It is well watered, 
highly cultivated, and abounds with neat cottages, and 
seems almost to realize some fancied descriptions of 
enchanted valleys, being shut out from the surround- 
ing countries by a formidable barrier of snow-clad 
mountains, and possessing in itself so attractive an as- 
pect. Martigny is a weil-built town ; and some anti- 
quarians insist, that it is the ancient Octodurum of the 
Romans. I can give no opinion on a point which has 
occasioned differences amongst the learned ; but the 
present appearance of the inhabitants was very favour- 
able, it being a holiday here as well as at Vaiorsine, 
and although their festivity was not altogether marked 
by the same simplicity, yet it was sufficiently removed 
from that which prevails in many ether countries to 



interest us by its singularity. We were here amused 
with an account of two English gentlemen, who at- 
tempted to ascend Mont Blanc, notwithstanding the 
assurances they received of the impracticability of the 
attempt under present circumstances, as a chasm had 
lately been made by the thaw on one side of the moun- 
tain ; but they were not to be intimidated either by the 
advice of the inhabitants, or by the accounts of the 
hardships suffered by M. Saussure, and judging with 
Hannibal, 

" Nil actum reputans si quid superesset agendum." 
* Think nothing gained while ought remains." 

They set out on this difficult enterprise, attended by 
eighteen guides, but were at length obliged to desist, 
after running many hazards, and after having expen- 
ded at least 50 pounds. If they failed in accomplish- 
ing their undertaking, they had at least the satisfaction 
of exciting much wonder amongst the surrounding 
peasants, at the curiosity and rashness of the English. 
Our party were more easily satisfied; and having seen 
as much as could be accomplished without very great 
difficulty, we were contented to judge of the rest from 
the ample descriptions that have been published res- 
pecting them. 

I could have wished, however, that time and the 
consent of the majority of the party, would have per- 
mitted my ascending to the convent on the Great St. 
Bernard ; but being left in the minority, I did not feel 



104 

disposed to make the excursion by myself, and I there- 
fore prepared to accompany my friends back to Geneva. 
At Martigny, we entered on a part of the grand road 
of the Simplon, and bidding adieu to our mules, and to 
the mountains over which they had carried us, we pro- 
ceeded on our journey in a charaban (or light country 
cart, with seats across it) to Bex. I did not observe 
that extreme indolence in the inhabitants of the Lower 
Valais, with which they have been reproached by some 
travellers They are no doubt very poor, but their 
cottages are not devoid of neatness and comfort. Our 
attention was soon attracted by the famous cascade 
called the Pisse Vache % the beauty of which consists 
chiefly in its seeming to issue immediately from a 
cavity in the rock, which is surrounded by thorns and 
bushes. Its perpendicular height cannot be estimated 
at less than 200 feet, although many make it double 
that, or even more. The country of the Valais is re- 
markable for the vast numbers of persons it contains, 
affected with the goitres^ and also of idiots. The neigh- 
bouring provinces are also more or less affected with 
these maladies. 

Many writers have exerted their ingenuity in endea- 
vouring to account for this singularity with greater or 
less success ; but what at Geneva is considered as the 
best treatise on the subject, is that by Coxe in his Ac- 
count of Switzerland. A gentlemen there lent me a 
French edition of this valuable work, from which I 
extracted the following account of the origin of the 
Goitres) (or extraordinary swellings about the glands 



105 

of the throat,) which in Switzerland is considered as 
very satisfactory. Mr. Coxe says, 

" The opinion that water derived from the melting 
of snow, occasions these excrescences, is entirely des- 
titute of foundation, which one cannot doubt if it is 
considered how generally such water is used in many 
parts of Switzerland, where the inhabitants are not at 
all subject to this malady, which is, however, very pre- 
valent in parts where no such water abounds. 

" These swellings are also frequently seen near Na- 
ples, in Sumatro, 8cc. where there is little or no snow." 
Mr. C. proceeds to shew that this malady is occasioned 
by a calcareous matter called in Swiss, Tuf j and adds, 
( i This stone resembles very much the incrustations at 
Matlock, in Derbyshire, which dissolve so completely 
in the water as not to lessen its transparency ; and I 
think -that the particles of this substance so dissolved, 
resting in the glands of the throat, occasion the Goitres, 
and during the course of my travels in different parts 
of Europe, I have never failed to observe, that where 
this TuJ\ or calcareous deposit is common, Goitres are 
equally so. I have found an abundance of tuf, and 
also of goitrous persons in Derbyshire, the Valois, the 
Valteline, at Lucerne, Berne, Fribourg, in parts of 
Piedmont, in the valleys of Savoy, at Milan, and at 
Dresden. I also observed that at Berne and Fribourg, 
the public fountains are supplied from sources where 
there is a vast quantity of this calcareous deposit. — 
General Pfiffer has informed me, that there is but one 
spring at Lucerne, which is free from tuf, and that 



105 

those who reside in its vicinity, are much less subject 
to the goitres than the rest of the inhabitants. A sur- 
geon also, whom I met at the baths of Louesch, in- 
formed me that he had frequently extracted from dif- 
ferent goitres, small Jiieces of tuf which is also found 
in the stomachs of cows, and the dogs of this country 
are also subject to this malady. This gentleman added, 
that, to complete the cure of young persons attacked 
by this complaint, he either removed them from waters 
impregnated with tuf, or recommended them to drink 
only of water that had been purified. The children of 
goitrous parents are often born with these swellings ; 
but there are also instances of children born with goi- 
tres, whose parents are free from them." 

That celebrated naturalist, M. de Saussure, attri- 
butes Goitres not to the water, but to the heat of the 
climate, and to the stagnation of the air, and he informs 
us, he has never seen Goitres in any place elevated 
5 or 6000 toises above the level of the sea, and that 
they are most common in valleys where there is not a 
free circulation of air. " But it may be observed, that 
in these elevated situations, fountains are too near their 
sources to dissolve as much calcareous sediment as by 
the time they reach the plain. Some say, that stran- 
gers are never attacked by the Goitres, but the truth 
is, they are only less subject to them than natives of 
the country. In fine, we may observe, that if snow 
water occasions the Goitres wherever they abound, 
there should also be snow water, which experience 
proves not to be the fact. If the concentration of heat 



lor 

and stagnation of the air are necessary to their forma- 
tion, it would follow that they should not abound in 
those places where the air circulates freely, which is 
not less contrary to fact than the former supposition. 
If waters impregnated with tuf, or certain calcareous 
substances, produce the Goitres, it will follow, that in 
every place where they abound, the inhabitants should 
drink of waters so impregnated, which seems conso- 
nant to the truth of the fact." The same causes which 
occasion the Goitres, have probably a considerable 
operation in producing the number of idiots, as they 
are alwas in most abundance where the Goitres pre- 
vail. Such is the intimate and inexplicable sympathy 
between the body and the mind. When the Goitres 
become large, they produce a difficulty of breathing, 
and render the person so affected, extremely indolent 
and languid. These idiots are treated with great re- 
gard by the rest of the inhabitants of the country, who 
even consider them, in some degree, peculiarly fa- 
voured by Providence — thinking that they are certain 
. of eternal happiness, as not being capable of forming 
any criminal intentions. Exaggeration is the common 
fault of travellers, and, to judge o£ the accounts given 
by some who have visited this country, a stranger 
would be led to suppose, that all its population were 
either idiots, or afflicted with Goitres. The fact, how- 
ever, is, that the inhabitants of the Valais are in general 
a strong and healthy race, but that these two unfortu- 
nate maladies are here in greater frequency than in 
any other country. 



108 

Our next stage, after leaving Martigny, was St. 
Maurice, which derives its name from an abbey, 
founded by Sigismund, King of Burgudny, about the 
commencement of the sixth Gentury, in honour of a 
saint, who is said to have here suffered martyrdom, 
having refused to abjure Christianity at the command 
of the Emperor Maximin. Its more ancient name is 
said by antiquarians to have been Augaunum. This 
place is very justly considered as the key of the Lower 
Valais, of which it is the chief town. Its bridge over 
the Rhone is of one arch, of 130 feet, which is thought 
to be the work of the Romans, and by its boldness 
does not seem unworthy of a people whose edifices are 
so justly distinguished for their elegance and durabi- 
lity. Here is also a curious Mosaic pavement, and 
the antiquity oi the place is proved incontestably by 
the many ancient medals and inscriptions which have 
been found here at different periods. It must, indeed, 
have been always remarkable as a military position, 
and it is difficult to imagine one of greater natural 
strength, or more easily defensible by a small force 
against superior numbers. The road, which is ex- 
tremely narrow, passes for a considerable length under 
a mountain, which is absolutely inaccessible. 

Having passed the bridge, we entered the territories 
©f the ancient canton of Berne, but now of Vaud (as I 
think there appears to be but little doubt that it will be 
speedily ackowledged as such by the Swiss diet.) 
Here our passports were demanded, but more in com- 
pliance with old regulations, than from any mistrust of 



109 

us ; and one of our party having forgotten his pass- 
port, the officer was perfectly satisfied with his leaving 
his name and address. 

The Rhone is here of astonishing rapidity, and its 
waters have quite a milky hue, from the vast quan- 
tities of melted snow with which they are supplied. 
On quitting the lake at Geneva, the river is of a trans- 
parent blue colour, which is attributed partly to its 
having deposited its sediment in the lake, and partly 
to the nature of the soil over which it there passes. 
The rest of our stage was through a picturesque coun- 
try, and the road was excellent. 



MO 



CHAP. IX. 

We found at Bex an excellent inn, which is not un- 
deserving the reputation it has acquired of being the 
best in Switzerland. This little town is situated 
amongst lofty mountains, which the industry of the 
peasants has cultivated wherever it was practicable, 
and they often carry their cattle with great labour to 
little spots of pasture which would otherwise have been 
lost, as without assistance, they could not have arrived 
at them. The cottages on the side of the Valais are 
so placed, as to contribute greatly to enliven the sce- 
nery ; and they are also remarkable for their singular 
construction, being mostly built on wooden pillars, 
several feet above the surface of the ground. 

Many of the inhabitants have two or three houses in 
different parts of their possessions, which they inhabit 
according as the season of the year requires their at- 
tention to the different places where they are situated. 
These people are said to be descended from the nor- 
thern tribes, and certainly resemble them in their wan- 
derings ; I have seen a whole hamlet deserted, the 
season not requiring the residence of the people. In 
countries which boast a larger portion of civilization, 
the fashion prevails over the division which the seasons 
seem to point out. An inhabitant of the Valais would 
no doubt be surprised at the summer being the season 



Ill 

in which our fashionables resort to London, from the 
purer air of the country. The Valais abounds with 
vineyards, but the wines are by no means palatable to 
persons who have tasted those of more favoured coun- 
tries. 

In the vicinity of Bex and Aigle are the only salt 
springs in Switzerland. They are of vast extent, and 
the view of the subterranean galleries, and of the reser- 
voirs of brine, is very striking. The town of Aigle is 
principally built of black marble, which is in great 
abundance in its neighbourhood, and the polishing of 
which affords employment to a number of persons. 

I observed more corn in this district than I had be- 
fore seen in Switzerland, but was informed that it did 
not grow a sufficient quantity for the consumption of 
its inhabitants, who are said to exceed 10,000. The 
church of Bex is neat, and has been lately repaired* 
We next arrived at Villeneuve, which is only remark- 
able as a pla.ce of embarkation on the lake of Geneva. 
Our plan was to return to Geneva by water, but the 
violence of the wind, which was against us, and which 
had greatly ruffied the lake, obliged us to continue our 
journey along its banks. The length of this lake is 
about 50 or 55 English miles, and its breadth from 10 
to 12. This vast body of water is sometimes so much 
agitated by sudden storms from the surrounding moun- 
tains, as to be covered with waves like the sea. We 
were highly pleased with the extraordinary scene of 
cultivation which its banks presented ; they are some- 
times extremely steep, but are formed by the uncea- 



112 

sing industry of the inhabitants into terraces supported 
by walls, and if their labour in originally making these 
divisions is calculated to astonish, their perseverance 
in repairing, and sometimes in rebuilding them, after 
the torrents have carried them away, is not less worthy 
of praise. The industry of the inhabitants seems con- 
tinually threatened by the vast masses of rocks which 
hang over their possessions, and which sometimes 
cover them with ruin. We saw an enormous mass 
which had fallen from one of the mountains, and is now 
in the lake, having been removed thither by the inhabi- 
tants after it had for some time completely obstructed 
the road. We passed near the castle of Chillon, which 
is singularly situated, being built on some rocks in the 
lake, by which it is completely surrounded. It consists 
of a number of circular towers, and was formerly used 
as a state prison A more secure position, for such an 
edifice, it is difficult to conceive. Before our arrival at 
Vevay, we saw the viliage of Clarens, so much cele- 
brated by Rousseau. Vevay is a handsome town, 
with about 4000 inhabitants ; and is, after Lausanne, 
the principal place in the canton of Vaud. The prin- 
cipal church is situated on an eminence above the 
town ; from its tower I saw a most magnificent pros- 
pect, embracing nearly the whole of the lake, (which 
is here nearly at its greatest breadth) the entrance of 
the Rhone through a romantic valley, and the stupen- 
dous scenery of the Alps, heightened by the numerous 
villages on the Savoy side the lake. For the union of 



113 

wild and cultivated scenery this view stands unequal- 
led. No description of mine could do it justice : 

* Car la parole est toujours reprimee 
Quand le sujet surmonte le disant." 

" When we most strongly would delight express, 
Words often fail in which oar thoughts to dress/' 

In this church is the tomb of the celebrated General 
Ludlow, who died here in 1693, aged 63. His monu- 
ment, according to custom, only speaks his praise j and 
makes no mention of his having been a member of that 
assembly which condemned the ill-fated Charles to 
death. Over the door of the house he inhabited, is this 
motto, " Omne Solum Forti Patria" He had resided 
for some time at Lausanne, but fearing the fate of 
Lisle, who was assassinated, he retired to this piace. 

Between Vevay and Lausanne is the vineyard of 
Vaux, which bears a great reputation. We passed 
through the village of Cully and Lutri, both situated 
on the lake, and after mounting a considerable hill ar- 
rived at Lausanne, which is the capital of the canton of 
Vaud. It stands on three hills, and on the intervening 
valleys, which being very steep, render its situation 
more picturesque than convenient. It is situated about 
400 feet above the level of the lake, from which it is 
distant about half a league ; the village of Ouchy 
scrves as its port, and carries on a good deal of trade, 
Lausanne contains several remains which prove its 
antiquity, and several Roman inscriptions are preserved 

l2 



114 

in the town-house, which is a handsome building.' — 
Here are three churches, one on each of the hills. Of 
these the cathedral is well worthy of attention. It is 
said to have been founded by one of the ancient kings- 
©f Burgundy, and is certainly superior to any church I 
had hitherto seen in Switzerland. Its architecture 
exhibits various specimens of Gothic : there are many 
windows of painted glass in good preservation, and also 
• several handsome monuments. The choir is hand- 
some, and its pillars are of black marble. Its spire 
rises to a great height, and from the church-yard there 
is a fine prospect of the lake, and the surrounding 
country, with which I should have been more delight- 
ed, had I not so recently seen the still grander scene 
which Vevay commands. The population of Lausanne 
is computed at 8,000, and they are very industrious ; 
there are manufactories of hats and cottons, and the 
printing business is carried on to a greater extent than 
in any other town in Switzerland. There are also 
several jewellers' shops, and watchmakers' ware- 
houses. 

Of all the Swiss towns this is considered as the most 
remarkable for the adoption of French fashions, and 
there is much more dissipation here than at Geneva, 
as it is the constant residence of many wealthy fami- 
lies ; but, with few exceptions, the houses are neither 
large nor well built. Near the church is shewn the 
residence of Gibbon, the historian, and his library is 
now the property of a gentleman of this town, who 
purchased it in England, 



115 

Lausanne was formerly subject to its bishops, who 
were princes of the German Empire. A council was 
held here in 1448, when Pope Felix F., to restore 
peace to the Romish church, and extinguish the 
schisms to which it was then a prey, resigned the tiara 
and retired to the Abbey of Ripaille, in Savoy, a second 
time. This prince is distinguished by some of the his- 
torians of his century by tlie title of the Solomon of the 
age. He succeeded to the dukedom of Savoy, by the 
name of Amadeus VII., and having abdicated that 
sovereignty, retired to the abbey of Ripaille, which he 
had long admired as a secluded retreat, and to which 
he was a great benefactor. His restless disposition 
having induced him to seek the papal dignity, he, soon 
after obtaining it, became a second time a recluse, but 
did not subject himself to any great mortification. 

This remarkable character died in 1451, aet. 69, at 
Geneva; he was buried with a Bible under his head, 
with this inscription, the application of which, I do not 
exactly understand : 

" La ville de Geneva est situee au milieu des mon- 
tagnes ; son territoire est sablonneux, tres-peu etendu, 
et les habitans sont curieux de nouveautes." M The 
city of Geneva is situated amongst mountains, its ter- 
ritory is sandy, and of small extent, and its inhabitants 
are curious concerning novelty." 

The reformation was established in the Pays de 
Vaud, in 1536, after a public controversy had been 
held between the Protestant and Romish ecclesiastics. 
The environs of Lausanne present as cheerful and ani- 



116 

mated a sight as is to be seen in any part of Switzer- 
land, and the view from the public walk, in particular, 
is enlivened by the bays and promontories, which di- 
versify the sides of the lake. 

Our first stage, after leaving Lausanne, was Morges, 
which is situated on the lake : it consists chiefly of two 
well built streets, and carries on a good deal of trade, 
having a secure port with two moles, which, when seen 
from a distance, have a good effect, being ornamented 
with turrets. The church is a handsome edifice of 
Grecian architecture, and is calculated to accommo- 
date a congregation much more numerous than the ' 
town affords. But, in general, modern churches are 
not to be reproached for being on too large a scale. 
The public walk is near the water ; it is shaded by 
lofty rows of glens, and presented, when we saw it, a 
very lively appearance, as it was under its shade that 
the town of Morges entertained at dinner, two compa- 
nies of infantry, and their officers, sent from Zurich to 
garrison Geneva. No place could be better adapted 
for the purpose, during so hot a season. The convivi- 
ality and good humour which prevailed were unbound- 
ed, and the patriotic tendency of the toasts, given by 
those at the upper table, was proved by the cheers 
with which they were received by all the others. 

The road from Morges to Rolle does not continue 
along the banks of the lake, which is, however, occa- 
sionally seen, and heightens the beauty of the country, 
by the effect produced by its waters. We passed near 
the town of Aubonne, which is chiefly distinguished by 



117 

the venerable castle, which formerly protected it from 
attack, and now adds to the beauty of its appearance. 
Rolle is a charming village : having neither walls, nor 
gates, it is denied tne title of a town, which it certainly 
merits more than many paltry places, which have no 
other pretensions to the name, than the circumstance 
of their being so enclosed. It consists chiefly of one 
wide and well built street; it is situated on the lake, 
which is here very wide, and is surrounded by a coun- 
try inferior to none we had passed. 

There is but little trade carried on here. Its mine- 
ral waters are, however, an attraction to strangers, and 
the society is generally pleasant. Many families of 
distinction reside in this neighbourhood, and their villas 
are handsome. I was particularly struck with the 
situation of one, which had been built by a Dutch gen- 
tleman ; it was of an oval form, and crowned with a 
dome. We found its owner had lately returned to 
Holland ; his house was shut up, and we could not 
gratify our curiosity in going over it. After dinner we 
took a turn on the promenade, which is laid out with 
great taste. From thence we visited the castle, for- 
merly the residence of the Barons of Rolle, but now 
vested in the commune by purchase, and applied to 
various purposes. One part is reserved for public 
meetings, another as a poor house, and a third portion 
accommodates the school of the district. We entered 
into conversation with a person whom we met at the 
gate (who proved to be the master of the school) ; and 
who, after having taken several pinches of snuft from 



118 

the box of one of our party, became extremely com- 
municative, and shewed us some of the apartments of 
the castle, as well as the garden, where is a terrace 
washed by the lake, which as the sun had long set, and 
as its waters presented an unruffled surface, was alto- 
gether one of the most tranquillizing scenes which I 
have ever witnessed, and which was heightened by the 
venerable and mouldering appearance of this part of 
the castle. We contemplated the scene for some time 
in silence, and it was not without regret that we left it. 
We arrived at an early hour next morning at Nyon, 
which is also built on the margin of the lake. It is 
chiefly remarkable for its Porcelain manufactory, and 
for the handsome appearance of its castle, situated 
above the town. Very near it is the Chateau de Pran- 
gin, which has been purchased within the last few 
months by Josefih Buonaparte^ who proposes to console 
himself in this retirement for the loss of regal power. 
His carriage passed us just before we entered Nyon ; 
and we were told he was on his way to another house 
which he has in this neighbourhood, where he mostly 
resides, to superintend the alteration he is now carry- 
ing on at Prangin. We went to see the chateau^ and 
found a considerable number of men employed about 
it. It is a large building, with a tower at each angle, 
and surrounds a paved court. The terrace commands 
a charming prospect, and no man could desire a more 
agreeable residence. We entered into conversation 
with an officer of his titular majesty's household, who 
said it was very natural we should desire to see one of 



119 

the members of a family which had of late acted so 
distinguished a part in Europe. He told us that King 
Joseph was extremely fond of hunting, and intended 
to enclose a large portion of the land he had purchased 
with a wall, in order to form a chasse pour les betes 
sauvages. This will be a great novelty in this highly 
improved country, and the walls must cost a vast sum 
of money. 

We waited some time, but without success, in hope 
of seeing his majesty. He will be probably much 
happier in this retirement than if the armies of his 
brother had succeeded in placing him on a throne 
which he wanted ability to fill with honor to himself, 
or with advantage to the people over whom Buona- 
parte designed he should act as governor and promul- 
gator of his oppressive system. 

The Spaniards despised Joseph extremely, and gave 
him the appellation of El Rey Botelli, from his love of 
wine ; drunkenness being a vice to which the Span- 
iards are not addicted. 

The hills which bound the lake near Nyon produce 
excellent wine, when compared with the rest of the 
Pays de Vaud. The vin de la Cote is much esteem- 
ed ; I cannot, however, with all the partiality 1 feel 
for Switzerland, contend for the general excellence of 
its wines; and although it is said, "Bacchus amat 
colles," yet I think the hills of the Pays de Vaud will 
hardly contend for this favour with those of the Rhin- 
gau and of Burgundy. Between Nyon and Copet we 
saw some of the artillery of this canton practising at a 



120 

mark, and were informed that they exercise here in 
turns, and that they are great proficients in the art of 
taking a correct aim. It is doubtless well to be prepa- 
red to resist an enemy who may wish to seize and 
oppress one's country ; but I hope Switzerland may 
not soon have to contend with the overwhelming armies 
of France. 

Copet is a pleasantly situated village. Fishing 
seems to be the chief occupation of its inhabitants. 

Near it is the chateau, formerly the property of M. 
Necker, and now the residence of his daughter, Ma- 
dame de Stael, who will probably be as celebrated in 
future times for her writings, as her father for the ad- 
ministration of the French finances. I was to have 
accompanied two friends to a fete given here by Ma- 
dame de Stael, but unfortunately we did not return in 
time from our excursion to Chamouny ; and shortly 
after Madame de Stael went to Paris. This lady is 
said to have formerly remarked, that she should proba- 
bly find it very difficult to be suited with a husband, 
as her mother insisted she should marry a man of qua- 
lity ; her father wtihed for a man of talents, and she 
to filease herself The Baron de Stael Holstein was 
finally accepted, as no doubt uniting all the points re- 
quired. We soon reached Versoi, which belongs to 
France, and was during the disturbances which pre- 
vailed at Geneva in 1765, much encouraged by the 
then minister, the Duke de Choiseul, who expected 
that its advantageous situation, as well as its proximity 
to Geneva, would attract many of its inhabitants to set? 



121 

tie there ; and that, by their well-known industry, his 
newly founded town would speedily flourish. 

The duke was, however, disappointed in the expec- 
tations he had formed (as the present situation of Versoi 
affords ample testimony) ; for it was too much to sup- 
pose, that men born under a free government would, on 
account of trifling internal dissentions, abandon their 
country, and become the voluntary subjects of a despotic 
monarchy. Confidence is a plant of slow growth^ and 
an absolute government is not likely to encourage it. 
An enlightened monarch may frame an edict equally 
liberal as that of Nantes ; but the tyranny or bigotry 
of a succeeding sovereign may revoke what only pro- 
ceeded from sentiments to which he is a stranger. — - 
The Genevese have now nothing to apprehend from 
Versoi as a rival, but are anxious that it should be united 
to Switzerland, the French custom-house there beinp* 
an obstacle to their trade by land, as they are only 
separated Trom the rest of Switzerland by this narrow 
point which projects from the country of Gex. Gex 
was at one time subject to Savoy, and at another period 
to Geneva. It is six leagues in length, and about three 
and a half in width. On the road from Versoi to Ge- 
neva we had ourselves reason to perceive the inconve- 
niences of the French custom-house, as it is quite ab- 
surd to insist on opening packages which are not des- 
tined to remain above ten minutes on the French terri- 
tory. The country here is finely varied, and the dis- 
tant view of Geneva again drew from us expressions 

M 



122 



of admiration, after an excursion through a country 
where the traveller often sees more to delight and to 
interest him in one day than he sometimes meets with 
in travelling for a week through other Provinces. 



123 



CHAP. X. 

Having left Geneva so soon after my arrival there, 
I had not of course sufficient time to speak sufficiently 
of a city so peculiarly interesting on many accounts. 
The journal of a traveller is not however the place to 
look for long statements of the revolutions, wars, and 
sieges of the cities which he visits; but still there are 
very few tourists who have omitted to swell their pa- 
ges with details more properly the province of the 
historian, and, from the unconnected manner in which 
they are generally introduced, not calculated to give 
any very accurate idea of the history of the place. I 
shall not therefore attempt to mention the various revo- 
lutions which have at different times disturbed the city 
of Geneva ; and shall only remark, that it was formerly 
annexed to the German empire, and that its bishops, 
like those of Lausanne, having taken advantage of the 
precarious authority of some of the emperors, succeed- 
ed in uniting to the spiritual jurisdiction most of the 
temporal authority of the state, and lost both together 
at the introduction of the reformation in 1585. The 
citizens, to defend themselves from the powerful pre- 
tensions of the Dukes of Savoy, concluded, in 1584, a 
perpetual alliance with the cantons of Zurich and 
Berne (the most powerful of the reformed cantons) 
by which alliance this republic became a part of the 



*■ 1 O 4 

i. -* 

Swiss confederacy, and continued to be so until forced 
to unite itself to France, by the revolutionary govern- 
ment oi that country. It has again recovered its indepen- 
dence ; and the general wish is that Geneva may be 
declared a canton of Switzerland (this has, since I left 
Geneva, actually taken place, and the event was cele- 
brated with the utmost enthusiasm by its inhabitants). 
Their present government is not absolutely arranged, 
and seems but little varied from that democratic 
form which anciently prevailed (the merits of which 
have given rise to much discussion) and by which all 
power is finally vested in the the general or sovereign 
council, composed of all the citizens of Geneva who 
have attained their majority, there being a few particu- 
lar exemptions. All citizens are equally eligible to 
the public employments of the state, of which, howe- 
ver, the emoluments are so scanty, as only to make 
them objects of honorable ambition. 

By the laws of Geneva, a father can never dispose 
of more than half his estate, according to his inclination; 
the other half must be equally divided amongst his 
children. Those citizens who do not discharge the 
debts of their father after his decease, are excluded 
from any public situations; as also, if they omit to pay 
debts which they have themselves contracted. There 
are still subsisting many sum/ituary laws, which ap- 
pear useful, to exclude the introduction of too great 
a degree of luxury, which is generally so fatal to the 
\ iberty of a people, 



m 



123 

There is a theatre at Geneva, which I have heard was 
first projected by M. d'Alembert, but the magistrates 
endeavour as much as possible to prevent the frequen- 
cy of theatrical entertainments ; and, during my stay 
at Geneva (between three and four weeks) I think 
the theatre was open but twice for plays, and once for 
a concert. 

The town-house is a large and ancient building, and 
devoid of regularity. It is chiefly worthy of mention, 
from the ascent to the upper appartments, being by an 
inclined plane, sufficiently spacious to admit a carriage 
to drive up to them. Here are the apartments of the 
Senate, the councils of government, officers of justice, 
8cc. Here I left my passports and received, in return, 
a permission to reside in the city, which must be re- 
newed every fortnight. The passport is returned upon 
the final departure of its owner. 

I now found it easy to provide myself with a lodging 
(as, without the authority of the state, no citizen can 
receive strangers into his house) on reasonable terms, 
for three weeks. My apartment commanded a hand- 
some prospect of the lake from one of the windows. 
I, however, occasionally dined at the hotel where I had 
first lodged (the Balances d'Or). I here found some- 
times pleasant society at the Table d'Hote; The hour 
of dinner was about a quarter past one o'clock, and the 
table was plentifully supplied, much in the order I be- 
fore mentioned, in speaking of the French dinners.— 
I observed that excellent vegetable, the potatoe, was 
here in great estimation, at the tables both of the high* 

M 2 



126 

er and inferior classes ; and, except in Italy, I under-, 
stand its value is duly appreciated in the principal 
parts of Europe. I now proceed according to my pro- 
mise, to speak more of Geneva, having been for some 
time domesticated there. 

The city is regularly fortified ; but, according to the 
motlern system of warfare, it would not probably make 
any efficient resistance ; yet although its fortifications 
may not be sufficient to secure it during a siege, they 
are not entirely devoid of utility : they would prevent 
the city's being suddenly occupied by an enemy, and 
thus afford time for the conclusion of a regular capitu- 
lation. Situated as the city is, between France and 
and Sardinia, and divided from the rest of Switzerland, 
it must be granted, that the government acts wisely in 
preserving its fortifications. Indeed, their utility was 
fully exemplified during the eventful period of last 
spring, when the allied troops, after having for some 
days occupied the city, were suddenly called away, and 
the inhabitants were menaced by a force of 3,000 
Frenchmen, who demanded admission. This was re- 
fused them, and happily, the return of the allies in a 
few days, - saved Geneva from the melanchoily effects 
which must have ensued from the irruption of the 
French, who were greatly exasperated that the city 
did not at first oppose the entrance of the allies. The 
ramparts form the principal promenade of the Gene- 
vese ; and from some of them (particularly from the 
Place St. Antoine, which commands the lake, and is 
well planted) the views are very striking over a highly 



127 

cultivated valley, enclosed by some of the most lofty 
mountains in Europe. Detachments of the allied for- 
ces remained a very considerable time at Geneva, and 
at one period the Republic had to defray a daily ex- 
pense of not less than 40,000 francs. 

But what seems to be most regretted by the Gene- 
vese, is the destruction by those troops, of several ave- 
nues of trees, which had for many years lined one of 
the roads near the city, and formed one of their favour- 
ite walks. The Austrians, in their impatience to ob- 
tain fuel, could not be persuaded to spaiie them, and 
the inhabitants now avoid a walk which they once de- 
lighted in. 

I have not, however, heard many complaints at the 
sums expended for the maintenance of the allied 
troops, as tiiey have relieved Geneva from the yoke of 
France, under which their trade (which alone had 
raised their city to such celebrity) was nearly annihi- 
lated. 

I obtained some information on this subject, trom a 
person of whom I inquired my way to the hamlet of 
the Petit Sacconnex, near Geneva, where is the best 
view of Mont Blanc. Seeing I was a stranger, he was 
very civil ; but he was delighted when he discovered 
of what country I was, and spoke of England with en- 
thusiasm, as it was to her perseverance that his coun- 
try, in common with most of Europe, was indebted for 
the late glorious change in the state of their affairs. 
He informed me, that before the union of Geneva to 
France, he had been in good business as a watch- 



128 

maker, (the great occupation of the Genevese) but, 
like numberless others, was thrown out of employment. 
Many emigrated, some worked as day-labourers, others 
were forced into the army, and he, being very old, 
maintained himself with difficulty by setting up a small 
school. 

I found my conductor an extremely well informed 
man, as indeed are most of the trades-people of Ge- 
neva. The higher circles are remarkable for that 
freedom, blended with politeness, which places society 
on its most natural basis, as I had frequent occasion 
to remark during my stay at Geneva. I must not omit 
to mention the pleasure I experienced from the fete de 
navigation (to which I was invited by the kindness of 
a gentleman, to whom I had been introduced) which 
is one of the most splendid at Geneva ; and the scene 
of the lake, covered with boats of various sizes, filled 
with elegant females (and I have seen few places that 
can boast of a greater proportion) prevented my reflec- 
tions on the more distant scene which its shores pre- 
sented, and which, under different circumstances, 
would not have passed unnoticed. After having spent 
some time on the water, the company repaired to the 
Hall of Navigation, near the village of Secheron, where 
a handsome entertainment was provided. The evening 
concluded with a brilliant display of fire-works, and 
the lake was again enlivened by the boats carrying back 
the company to the city. I observed amongst the 
company an English Admiral, who attended this fete 
in his uniform. The Genevese lamented that so hand- 



129 

some a dress should be disfigured by the small hat he 
wore, and it was indeed small compared with those of 
their officers. The peasants here wear larger hats 
than any I saw in France, probably to shade them from 
the sun ; but in any climate, I do not think an English 
labourer would feel at his ease with such a vast edifice 
on his head. The bonnets worn by the inhabitants of 
parts of Savoy and Vaud, are not very dissimilar in 
shape from some I have seen in Wales ; they are made 
of straw, and are commonly ornamented with black 
ribbon. 

I shall here insert an epigram composed in 16tflBF, 
by a Prince of Hesse, who, at his departure, presented 
the city with 10,000 crowns. 

Quisquis amat vitam, sobriam, castamque tueri, 

Perpetud esto ill! casta Geneva domus : 
Quisquis amat vitam banc bene vivere, vivere et illam, 

llli iterum fuerit casta Geneva domus. 
Illic invenies, quidquid conducit utriqus : 

Relligio hie sana est, aura, ager, atque lucus. 

Amongt the various objects which are pointed out 
as deserving the attention of a stranger, is the house in 
which the celebrated J. J. Rousseau was born, in the 
year 1712. The circumstance is recorded by an in- 
scription over the door. His father was a watchmaker, 
and his house was small and obscurely situated. 

Rousseau was perhaps the most eloquent and fasci- 
nating of all the sceptical writers of the last century ; 
and probably the only one amongst them who establish- 



130 

ed a system of his own, if indeed his eccentricities can 
be so called. His character exhibited a strange mix- 
ture of pride, which made him perpetually anxious to 
be of public notoriety, and of an unsociable temper 
which often made him retire in disgust with the world, 
and treat (without any rational cause, that has been 
assigned) those who were most his friends, as if he 
considered them to be his bitterest enemies. He was 
far more jealous of the reputation obtained by his con- 
temporaries, than delighted with the approbation he 
personally received. Considered as a philosopher, he 
was paradoxical ; as a moralist, dangerous and licen- 
tious ; as a parent, unnaturally abandoning his off- 
spring ; as a friend, suspicious and ungrateful. As 
pride was the ruling passion of Rousseau, so was vanity 
beyond dispute the grand characteristic of Voltaire, 
(the proximity of Fernay may excuse my here compa- 
ring him with Rousseau) and this passion induced him 
to pervert transcendent talents to the most pernicious 
and fatal purposes. 

The hostility of Voltaire to the Christian dispensa- 
tion has been compared to the enmity rather of a rival 
than of a philosopher. He is thought to have wished 
its overthrow, not so much because he entertained any 
solid objections to its sublime theories, or had real 
doubts as to the miracles by which it is attested ; as 
because his vanity led him to think, that if he once 
could persuade men to the abolition of Christianity, he 
might himself become the founder of a new system of 
moral indulgence. The Abbe Raynal, in 1791, already 



131 

repented of the philosophic principles, which he had so 
sedulously inculcated, and expressed his conviction, that 
the consequence of the theories then so finely fancied, 
would be a general pillage, for that their authors want- 
ed experience, to reduce their speculations to a prac- 
tical system. The Abbe was right in this last expec- 
tation, and from the French Revolution, so destructive 
in most respects, there has at least resulted this advan- 
tage ; it has furnished the most satisfactory comment 
upon the grand experiment of the philosophers, and 
proved most fully that it is religion alone that possesses 
authority to silence the clamours of interest, to control 
the passions, and to fetter the ambition of mankind.— 
The same year (1778) is memorable for the deaths 
both of Voltaire and Rousseau ; the first is represented 
as exhibiting on his death bed the most melancholy 
spectacle of horror and remorse that can be possibly 
conceived ; the latter is thought to have committed 
suicide at Ermenonville, where he found an asylum, 
after having been banished successively from many 
states. This opinion is founded chiefly on the author- 
ity of Madame de Stael : it is related, that he rose in 
the morning in perfect health, and returned after his 
usual walk ; that soon after, he desired his wife to open 
the window, that he might, as he expressed it, contem- 
plate nature for the last time, and that being presently 
taken ill, he refused to receive any assistance, and died 
in a few hours. 

Those who have seen both those celebrated charac- 
ters (who long attracted persons from all parts of Eu- 



132 

rope to this country) have remarked, that Voltaire at 
first sight was acknowledged to be a man of genius : 
but that Rousseau was only suspected of possessing 
superior abilities. 

I have perhaps said too much on this subject, into 
which I have been led insensibly, by reflecting on what 
I had read of these philosophers, and shall therefore 
conclude with inserting the remark of a Savoyard pea- 
sant, who, according to M. Lantier, being asked his 
opinion of them, answered, " i" think that Voltaire has 
clone a great deal of mischief in the age in which he 
lived; and that Rousseau will not do less to pos- 
terity" 

The college of Geneva and its library are generally 
pointed out to strangers as worthy of a visit ; for the 
Genevese are no less celebrated for their proficiency in 
literature, than for their commercial industry. The 
college consists of nine classes, and owes its founda- 
tion to the celebrated Calvin, who was born at Nyon, 
where his father was a cooper. He first arrived at 
Geneva in 1536, was exiled in 1538, and recalled 
finally in 1541 ; he became the legislator as well as 
the religious reformer of the state. He is still the 
great hero of the Genevese, who believe him to be in- 
nocent of the death of Michael Servet, which has in 
the general opinion cast such disgrace on his memory. 
He did not affect to deny the great perversity of his 
temper, which is indeed exhibited by many of his ac- 
tions, so forcibly as not to admit of concealment. His 
writings, in 44 volumes, containing 2,023 sermons, and 



1 oS 

his portrait, are preserved in the college library, which 
contains about 50,000 volumes, besides 200 manu- 
scripts, some of which are of great value. This library 
was originally founded by Bonnival, prior of St. Vic- 
tor, and is open trom one till three o'clock every Tues- 
day. Two secretaries are then engaged, under the 
inspection of the librarian, in taking lists of the books 
which are borrowed or returned. The hydraulic ma- 
chine on the Rhone, which supplies the city with wa- 
ter, although it is less complicated than that at Marli, 
is not iess ingenious, and is certainly of greater utility. 
The wheel is twenty-four feet in diameter, and raises 
about 500 pints a minute at all seasons (being preser- 
ved from the effects of frost) to two reservoirs, one 
seventy, tae other 126 feet above the level of the river. 
The first supplies the fountains and houses in the low- 
er part of the town, and the second those in the more 
elevated situations. The water of the Rhone, although 
transparently clear, is hard and unpleasant to drink. 

In enumerating the public establishments of Gene- 
va, I must not omit to mention the Society for the Ad- 
vancement of the Arts, which was originally projected 
by M. Faizan, an eminent watch-maker ; its first 
meetings were held at M. de Saussure's house. This 
society is now so considerable as to be under the direc- 
tion of government, and its meetings are held in the 
town-hall, where subjects connected with agriculture 
and the useful arts are discussed, and prizes distribu- 
ted, as well to the school of drawing (which is on a 
most respectable footing) as to a//, who distinguish 

N 



134 

themselves, either by inventions of utility, or by noble 
or humane actions. 

Another excellent establishment here, is the Cham- 
bre de Bles, or magazine of corn ; this is a large and 
handsome building, and always contains an ample sup- 
ply of good wheat. The direction of this establishment 
is immediately in the government, and its managers 
are selected from the different councils. The benefits 
arising from abundant seasons, cover the expences oc- 
casioned by years of scarcity. The bakers being obli- 
ged to buy here whatever quantity of corn they may 
require, and at an uniform price, it follows that the 
price of bread always continues the same, and that price 
is fixed by the grand council. The managers of this 
store, to prevent the bakers from making bread of an 
inferior quality, have established a shop in each quar- 
ter of the city ; and the bakers, to ensure a ready sale, 
are obliged to make their bread of equal quality with 
that which could be procured at the shops of the mana- 
gers of this establishment. The churches of Geneva 
are not distinguished by any architectural beauties, if 
we except the portico of the cathedral, which is con- 
structed of rough marble, said to be copied after that 
of the Rotunda at Rome ; it is considered equal to that 
of St Genevieve at Paris, but I cannot subscribe to 
that opinion. 

The Calvinistic tenets (which are those of the state) 
are most generally adopted at Geneva ; but the Lu- 
therans, the Germans of the Confession of Augsburg, 
and the Roman Catholics, have each a church. The 



135 

ministers are appointed by the government, and care is 
taken that the Roman Catholic minister be subject to 
a Swiss Bishoprick. In the Calvinistic churches, the 
hours of divine service are nine in the morning an4 
two in the afternoon. The service consists in the 
reading the commandments, a few prayers, a chapter 
in the Bible, and the sermon ; and concludes with a 
psalm or hymn, accompanied by the organ ; the whole 
service generally occupies an hour. The Sunday is 
principally distinguished by the sermon, the rest of the 
week being allotted for reading the Scriptures. — A 
stranger is much surprised at seeing many persons 
wear their hats during the sermon, a custom which in- 
dicates a want of respect to the place that cannot be 
excused, however inferior the compositions of a prea- 
cher may be to the rest of the service. There is one 
thing to be noticed here as worthy of imitation : no 
burials are allowed within the city. At Paris also, 
most of the burial places near the churches have been 
removed to the catacombs, a change which has tended 
greatly to purify the air of the city. There is a box at 
each door of the churches here, and as the congrega- 
tion retire after divine service, a person is stationed 
near it, to desire them to remember the poor. These 
collections must be liberal, as few places are so free 
from beggars as Geneva. 



136 



CHAP. XI. 

The Perte du Rhone, or the spot where the Rhone 
suddenly sinks into the ground, forms one of the ob- 
jects usually visited from Geneva, and I accepted a 
proposal to join a party in making an excursion 
thither. We were careful in providing a carriage, 
which was so constructed, as to allow us a view on 
both sides, as some only afford a prospect of half the 
country, the passengers all sitting on one side, and the 
cover being immoveable. 

We set out at an early hour, and arrived at Vanchy 
about noon, from whence we proceeded on foot to the 
spot where the vast waters of the Rhone, in approach- 
ing a ridge of rocks, with inconceivable rapidity, sink 
into the earth. The cavern is covered with foam, from 
the agitation of so great a body of water being forced 
into so small an aperture ; and the sight is at once 
magnificent and solemn. The emersion of the Rhone 
is not far distant from the place of its ingulphation, but 
presents a very different spectacle, as the river ascends 
so gradually as to be completely smooth, which is at- 
tributed to the depth of the caverns from which it 
issues. It seems probable that these caverns have 
some undiscovered outlet, as the Rhone, after its rise 
from them, is but inconsiderable, compared with what 
it is before its disappearance. 



Not far distant is the Pont de Beliegarde, over t£c 
little river Valserine, which runs through a deep dell 
into the Rhone. The scene is well deserving of atten- 
tion. In the vicinity of Geneva are several hop gat- 
dens, which seem very flourishing ; but whether it is 
that the inhabitants do not understand the art of brew- 
ing as well as in England, or that there is any differ- 
ence in the plant, I do not know ; but no one, who ha^ 
been accustomed to good malt liquor, could be persua- 
ded to relish theirs. 

The elevation of Geneva (187 toises above the Me- 
diterranean) together with the proximity of the Alps, 
and of the mountains of Jura, cause winters to be long, 
and often severe. The summers are often extremely 
hot, but the air is refreshed by the gales from the 
mountains, which sometimes occasion very sudden 
changes in the atmosphere. 

The thermometer of Reaumur has been known to 
rise 25 degrees above freezing, but I have never my- 
self observed it above 18 or 20 during my stay. 

It is said, that very severe cold has brought it to 14 
degrees below freezing, and then the lake, and even 
the rapid current of the Rhone, have been frozen. 

Often, during the summer months, the lake is ruffled 
by the Bise, or regular north-east wind ; but the east 
and west winds occasion the most destructive tempests. 
The climate of Switzerland is in general much colder 
than in the countries by which it is surrounded Its 
numerous lakes, mostly very elevated, add greatly to 
the freshness of th,e air, and the frequent rains from 



i3a 

the Alps bring with them the temperature of those 
mountains. But, although the climate is so variable, 
being often changed in a few hours, from the great 
heat which the reflection of the sun occasions in the 
valleys, to the cold rains which proceed from the sur- 
rounding mountains, yet these sudden transitions do 
not appear to have an ill effect on the health of the 
inhabitants. On the contrary, the celebrated physician 
Mailer attributes the salubrity of the air of Switzer- 
land to the currents from the Alps, which preserve it 
continually pure, and prevent its stagnation in the 
valleys. 

The soil of Switzerland is, in general, stony and un- 
fertile, but the peasants spare no pains to render it 
productive. I have had more than once before occa- 
sion to express my astonishment at the sight of moun- 
tains divided into terraces, and cultivated to their very 
summits. I have been informed by a gentleman, who 
has devoted much of his attention to agricultural pur- 
suits, that the general return of grain in Switzerland is 
about five times the quantity sown, and that Switzer- 
land does not produce much above a tenth part of the 
corn necessary for the subsistence of its population, 
which he calculates at 130 to the square mile, or nearly 
two millions ; but if the parts which it is impossible 
can ever be cultivated, were left out of the calculation, 
the average population to the square mile would be of 
course greatly increased ; as the present scheme in- 
cludes the whole superfices of the country. 



139 

The proportion which some other countries b ear to 
Switzerland, in respect to the population subsisting on 
each square mile, is as follows, viz. 

China, the most populous country in the world, 

of the same extent, - - - - - 260 
Holland, which has a greater population than any 

country of its limited extent - 275 

France, as in 1792 174 

United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland - 145 

Russia in Europe ------- 30 

Iceland --------- l 

I have been assured that in one part of the Canton 
of Appenzell,the population amounts to 562 per square 
mile. It is one of the most secluded parts of Switzer- 
land, and is famous for the music called the Ranz des 
Suisses. Tne Alps greatly increase the surface of 
Switzerland when compared with less mountainous 
countries, and it therefore can support vast flocks in 
situations where agriculture would be impracticable. 
I have been frequently surprised to see cattle in places 
whither they must have been carried by the inhabitants. 
The number of the cattle, in many of the Swiss Can- 
tons, greatly exceeds that of the inhabitants. 

Haller has observed that Switzerland presents, as it , 
were, three distinct regions ; that on tye tops of the 
mountains are found the plants indigenous in Lapland ; 
lower down, are found those of the Cape of Good Hope ; 
and the valleys abound with plants peculiar to Switzer- 
land, besides others which are found in the same lati- 



140 

tude* I observed in a former chapter, that the great 
occupation of the inhabitants of Geneva consists in the 
manufacture of watches, clocks, 8c c. and having a de- 
sire to see some specimens of their workmanship, I 
accompanied a friend, who had purchased a musical 
snuff box, to the workshop of its fabricator, who, al- 
though he was of the first celebrity in Geneva, had no 
warehouse in a more accessible situation than his work- 
shop on the fifth story. I afterwards found that most 
of the watchmakers had their workshops at the tops of 
the houses, which here, as in Edinburgh, are mostly 
occupied by several families, who have a common stair- 
case to their apartments. I was much pleased with 
the display of ingenuity in this warehouse, and found 
that many of the articles were intended to be sent to 
Paris, to Asia, Sec. Geneva itself could not, of course, 
supply purchasers for such a profusion of expensive 
mechanism. The taste of many of the articles, is by 
no means such as would ensure them a ready sale in 
London. 

There are at Geneva many pleasant circles or socie- 
ties, who have a common apartment to meet in within 
the city, where the papers are taken in ; and often a 
garden in the neighbourhood for their recreation. I 
was introduced to one of these circles, and went to 
their garden, which was large and well shaded with 
walnut trees. About the centre was a large pleasure 
house, furnished with billiard, chess, and backgammon 
tables. Some of the party were engaged at bowls ; 
their game differs from ours in many respects, as here 



141 

they prefer a gravel walk or uneven surface, and they 
throw the bowl a considerable height into the air, 
instead of letting it glide gently along. I became ac- 
quainted with a French gentleman, much advanced in 
years, who had resided here chiefly since the French 
Revolution. He told me his head had been twice laid 
on the block for execution, and that the whole of his 
family had perished during the troubles in France : he 
therefore did not wish to return into his country, which 
would only recal melancholy recollections ; but he 
rejoiced much to see the royal family again seated on 
the throne. It is to be feared, that there are in many- 
parts of Europe, several individuals, in equally unfor- 
tunate circumstances, after the dreadful carnage occa- 
sioned by the continued succession of wars, with which 
it has been ravaged. I must not take my leave of Ge- 
neva without mentioning, that there are few places 
which afford more of the requisites to a pleasant resi- 
dence. The walks and rides in its vicinity are very 
numerous, and abound with interesting prospects. — 
T\ie view of the city from the village of Coligny, on the 
Savoy side of the lake, is highly impressive. The 
junction of the rivers Arve and Rhone forms another 
very fine scene. The waters of the Rhone are at least 
three times greater than those of the Arve, and are of 
a transparent blue colour, whilst those of the Arve are 
of a milky hue, something like the appearance of the 
Rhone when it first enters the lake of Geneva, where 
it leaves the tint it acquired from the mountain 
snows and torrents, The Rhone seems for a conside- 



142 

rable distance to retire from any amalgamation with 
the Arve, but at length assumes a less transparent 
aspect. 

About half a league from Geneva is the town of 
Carrouge, which at one period was in some degree its 
rival in trade, but is at present by no means in a flou- 
rishing state. Its future destiny remains to be decided 
along with those of more important states, at the ap- 
proaching Congress of Vienna. The general opinion 
seems to be that the Carrougians wish to be reunited 
to France ; but the King of Sardinia has invited them 
to submit to his authority. 

I walked one morning to St. Julian, about two 
leagues from Geneva ; it is pleasantly situated in that 
part of Savoy which is ceded to France, and which is 
in fact the most essential part of the country, as it is 
said this division materially interrupts the communi- 
cation between those parts which remain with the King 
of Sardinia. The object in visiting St. Julian, was 
principally to see the plain, where after a sharp con- 
test, the Austrians were defeated by little more than 
half their number of French troops, but having received 
reinforcements, renewed the action and were victo- 
rious. It must be confessed, that the Austrian troops 
are much inferior to the French ; and the latter ha- 
ving so frequently defeated them, feel quite indignant 
against the Austrians for the part taken by their govern- 
ment in the invasion of France, and the restoration of 
the Bourbons. 



143 

Most of the French officers I have met with indulge 
the hope, that some differences at the Congress may 
occasion a fresh war with Austria. The French in 
general join the officers in looking forward to the re- 
covery of what they contend are their natural limits — 
the Rnine and Belgium ; — and after so many years of 
war, are dissatisfied at having no conquests to boast of. 

It cannot be however expected that the great bias 
given to the French in favour of war, by their late 
ruler, should speedily subside ; but the restless and 
impatient spirit which at present prevails in France, 
and which would engage immediately in a fresh war, 
must be in some degree restrained by the exhausted 
state of their finances ; and as it is, many of the taxes 
are much complained of. 

On my return to Geneva, I met the Ex-Empress, 
Maria Louisa, accompanied by a numerous suite, on 
her way from the baths of Aix, where she had been 
for several weeks, to the Hotel de Secheron, near Ge- 
neva. She bore some resemblance to the portraits I 
had seen of her in London ; and although she is not 
particularly beautiful, yet has a lively and interesting 
appearance. Her arrival did not appear to make much 
sensation at Geneva ; she excited by no means so much 
interest there as Lord Castlereagh, who passed through 
on his road to Vienna ; and who well merits the con- 
gratulations he every where receives, for the part he 
has had in the late glorious events. 



144 



L CHAP. XII. 

I remained at Geneva longer than I had at first in- 
tended, and at last quitted it with regret. I shall ever 
recollect the time I spent there with pleasure ; but 
the period allotted for my tour would not permit me 
to remain any longer stationary ; and I therefore set 
off for the mountains of Jura, celebrated for the exten- 
sive and varied prospects which they afford of the 
Alps, Sec. I was much pleased with the scenery of 
the little lake and valley of Joux, shut out by moun- 
tains from the rest of the Canton of Vaud. At Copo- 
nex I met two gentlemen, who were indebted to their 
horse for having escaped being robbed the evening 
before. They were travelling slowly in an open car- 
riage, when suddenly they were ordered to stop by 
several men of French appearance, who were thought 
to be disbanded soldiers. This adventure made a 
great noise in a neighbourhood, where highway robbe- 
ry is extremely unusual. We breakfasted at a neat 
inn in the village of Lasera, and afterwards went to see 
the chief curiosity of the place, the separation of the ri- 
vulet into two branches, one of which falls into the lake 
of Neufchatel, and eventually through the rivers Aar 
and Rhine into the German Ocean ; the other runs in- 
to the lake of Geneva, and by means of the Rhone at 
length reaches the Mediterranean. This singularity 



145 

proves the facility with which the lakes of Neufchatel 
might be made to communicate with each other. Ac- 
cordingly, a canal has long since been commenced ; 
but its projectors have made little progress in their 
undertaking. The little town of Orbe, is nearly sur- 
rounded by a river of the same name ; it bears evident 
marks of antiquity, and from its position, must have 
been in former times a place of considerable strength. 
The ancient kings of Burgundy have a residence 
here. 

This part of the country is highly varied, and pre- 
sents a most picturesque appearance. 

Land in the Pays de Vaud, I found, generally sells 
for about twenty-five years purchase ; and 3^ or 4 per 
cent, is thought sufficient interest for money invested 
in it. Travelling and living are much dearer in this 
country, than in France, as although the inhabitants 
have few superfluities, yet they have to fetch them 
from a distance, Switzerland not affording a sufficient 
supply of food for the support of its inhabitants. 

Yverdun was our next stage ; it is after Lausanne 
and Vevay the most considerable town in the canton. 
It is situated close to the lake of Neufchatel, and is 
surrounded by water. It consists of three parallel 
streets, terminating in a square, in which are the 
church and town-house, both neat structures. The 
population is about 3000. The castle is flanked by 
numerous turrets, and has a venerable appearance.-— 
The promenade presents a sort of sea view, as the ex- 
tremity of the lake (which is about nine leagues in 

o 



146 

length, by two in breadth) is hid from the eye by the 
convexity of its waters, and the view is terminated by 
the sky. At a little distance from the town, is a mineral 
spring, with a large building containing baths and a 
pump-room. 

I found the waters were strongly impregnated with 
sulphur. Here is a celebrated school, containing 
about 250 boys; the annual expense for each boarder is 
not less than fifty louis. 

We proceeded in the diligence to Neufchatel, 
through the towns of Granson, St. Aubit, and Boudri. 
The banks of the lake present a continued succession 
of vineyards, which afford the best red wine in Swit- 
zerland. The conductor of our voiture amused us a 
good deal by his eccentricity. He seemed thoroughly 
happy and contented ; and when an old gentleman of 
the party wished for a bag of crowns that were put 
into the carriage, to be conveyed to Berne, the conductor 
declared, he was not like JVaJioleon, and wished for 
nothing he had not. We found that the establishment 
of a game license had occasioned some discontent in 
this country. The quantity of game is said to have 
greatly diminished. One gentleman told me, they 
sometimes hunted wild boars on the mountains near 
France. The roads here have been much shortened 
by a new line of communication which has been lately 
opened, and the bridge at Serrier of a single arch over 
a deep valley (wnicii formerly obliged travellers to 
make a considerable circuit) has a very handsome as 
>\ r ell as useful effect. The town of Neufchatel contains 



ur 

between four and five thousand inhabitants ; it is partly 
built on a hill, where stand the church and castle, and 
partly on a plain near the lake, on the borders of which 
are handsome public walks and further improve- 
ments are carrying on. The elegant appearance of 
many of the private houses proves the wealth of their 
owners. 

Neufchatel is without fortifications, but is in eene- 
ral well built; it is said to present a perspective, 
resembling, in miniature, the distant view of Naples. 
The lake is not deep, but seldom freezes, although 
it is thirty one toises more elevated than that of 
Geneva. 

The principalities of Neufchatel and ValHngen are 
about twelve leagues long, by eight at the broadest 
part ; the soil is far from fertile, but the industry of 
the inhabitants renders it astonishingly productive. 
Any person having a certificate of his general good 
conduct may settle here, and enjoy every essential pri- 
vilege of the native subjects. This is perhaps the only 
country in Europe exemjit from taxes j for the pay- 
ment of a few sous annually from every householder 
cannot be considered as a tax. This circumstance 
lessens our astonishment at the commercial activity 
which prevails in this little state, the population of 
which exceeds 40,000. The villages of Chaux de 
Fond and Locle, with their districts, contain about 600 
inhabitants, and furnish annually 40,000 watches in 
gold and silver, besides clocks. There are also nu- 
merous engravers and enamellers. The country is 



148 

celebrated for its wild beauty; and our excursion, 
which occupied a day, was pleasant. 

The Protestant is the established religion of the 
state, with the exception of the little town of Landeron, 
where the Roman Catholic religion is maintained. It 
is recorded, that the inhabitants, having assembled to 
deliberate, which of the two forms of worship should 
be acknowledged, the numbers were equally divided. It 
being however discovered, that a shepherd was absent, 
he was sent for, and having given his vote, that the 
Roman Catholic religion should be continued, it was 
decided acccordingly. 

The town of Neufchatel is much indebted to one of 
its citizens, David Rhi, who expended three or four 
millions of livres in works of public utility. Another 
individual built the town-house, which is a handsome 
edifice of the Corinthian order. 

The little brook called the Serrieres, which does 
not run above the length of two gun-shots before it 
falls into the lake, turns a great number of mills of vari- 
ous kinds. 

Having been much struck with the spirit of industry 
and activity which distinguishes the appearance of this 
little state, I felt anxious to inquire concerning the 
government, and a gentleman of this town, to whom I 
was introduced when at Geneva, was kind enough to 
give me ample information on the subject. As I say but 
little respecting the history of large states, perhaps I 
may he excused for the following details, which I think 
possess some interest. 



149 

The state of Neufchatcl is an independent sove- 
reignty, allied with Switzerland ; which alliance se- 
cures its independence, and every prince on succeed- 
ing to the sovereignty, is obliged to ratify it. The ac- 
tual government is a mixture of aristocracy and 
democracy. The sovereignty which is almost a name, 
is inalienable and indivisible, and cannot be sold or 
given to a younger branch of the reigning family, 
without the consent of the people — it is hereditary, 
and a female is capable of inheriting it. The revenues 
of the sovereign arise from quit-rents, fines, tithes, 
and the exclusive right of trout fishing in the autumn; 
he can, on no pretext whatever, exact any thing addi- 
tional from the state, and the total of his revenue does 
not exceed 45,000 francs. The prince has the dispo- 
sal of all civil and military employments, not reserved 
particularly for popular election; he is represented by 
a governor, who presides at the general meetings of 
the estates of the principality, but has no vote unless 
the numbers are equally divided. In the event of a 
contest relative to the succession of the principality, 
the Estates General are alone competent to decide 
between the different claimants ; and the Canton of 
Berne has always decided any differences that may 
have arisen between the prince and the people respec- 
ting their particular rights. The last time when the 
estates were called upon to decide between a number 
of claimants for the sovereignty, was in 1707, on the 
death of the Dutchess of Nemours without issue, — ■ 



150 

Most of the claimants came in person to Neufchatei, 
or sent ambassadors to support t:ieir pretentions. — 
Amongst them were the King of Prussia, Margrave of 
Baden Dourlach, the Prince of Nassau, the Prince of 
Conde, the Marquis of d'Algers, the Count of Mont- 
beliard, Sec. &c. In bestowing the sovereignty on the 
King of Prussia, care was taken that he should confirm 
all the doubtful privileges of the people ; for it is a 
fundamental maxim of this little state, " that the sove- 
reignty resides not in the person of the firince, but in 
the state." 

The Neufchatelois are permitted to serve in the 
armies of any power, not at war with the Prince of 
Neufchatei, as such, and accordingly it has happened 
that they have often fought against the Prussians in 
the wars of Frederick the Great. By the treaty of 
Tilsit, 1806, this state was severed from Prussia, and 
given by Buonaparte to Marshal Berthier; but the 
recent events have restored it to the King of Prussia, 
and the inhabitants seem to bear the greatest attach- 
ment to his Majesty. I saw, in two places, the trium- 
phal arches under which he passed in his late visit to 
Neufchatei. It appears probable that this will be 
acknowledged as a canton by the Swiss Diet, but that 
the nominal sovereignty of the King of Prussia will be 
preserved. The chief advantage his Majesty derives 
from this country is the supply of a great number of 
recruits to his army. I saw a body of 1,400 soldiers, 
of excellent appearance, set out on their march for 
Prussia. 



151 

At the village of St. Blaise we observed, under the 
sign oi one oi tiie inns, the sentiment, " Honor ez le 
Roi ; soigncz V agriculture." We next proceeded to 
visit the celebrated lake of Bienne, which is about 
nine English miles by four. The isle of St. Pierre, 
so much praised by Rousseau, is situated near the 
centre of the lake, about a league from Cerlier, where 
we embarked for it. It is about half a league in cir- 
cumference. The ancient convent is inhabited by a 
farmer, and the bed of the philosophic Rousseau is 
now at the command of any of his admirers who may 
wish to repose in it. 

There is also a large building, which is in summer 
the scene of much festivity, and which commands an 
extensive and interesting prospect. 

One side of this isiand rises boldly from the lake to 
a great height ; the other is on a level with its waters. 
It contains many vineyards, and several large chesnut 
trees. The town of Bienne, until its union to France 
in 1799, presented the singularity of a Protestant state 
being nominally subject to a Roman Catholic prelate 
(the Bishop of Basle.) Its liberties were guaranteed 
by the Swiss Diet, where it sent a representative, a 
privilege the bishop did not possess. Its future go- 
vernment is not yet determined on. The country 
about Nydau more resembles Holland and Switzer- 
land, being marshy, or drained by canals. Many Swiss 
writers are of opinion, that formerly the lakes of Neuf- 
chatel, Morat and Bienne were united ; and the ap- 



152 

pearance of the country renders the supposition not 
improbable. 

The Pont de Thiel divides the territories of Rome 
and Neufchatel ; and it is also the limit of the French 
language, none of the peasants beyond the bridge 
being able to answer any questions but in German. 
However, at all the chief inns, in both Switzerland and 
Germany, some of the waiters speak French. It is 
difficult to suppose a more sudden change than pre- 
sents itself to the traveller on his passing this bridge. 
The houses, dress, and appearance of the inhabitants, 
all announce that he is arrived in a country differing 
entirely from France, Savoy, and the Paus de Vaud. 

The enormous black crape head-dresses of the wo- 
men have a most singular effect, as well as their long 
hair, which reaches halfway down their backs, plaited 
into several divisions. It is said, that in some districts 
the females after marriage, roll it round their heads* 
The costume of the men much resembles that of our 
sailors. Cotton or woollen caps are more worn than 
hats, as was the custom in England until about the 
time of Henry the Eighth. 

We sent our baggage by the coach to Berne, and 
walked three leagues to breakfast at Anet, in German 
£is, a large village pleasantly situated. We observed 
that the direction posts had a translation into French 
of the German names, Sec. ; a precaution very useful 
on the frontiers of nations speaking two different lan- 
guages. We found our inn extremely neat, as indeed 
the inns generally are throughout Switzerland ; and 



153 

that is one great advantage to the traveller which it 
possesses over France, where it is seldom that good 
accommodations can be procured at a country inn. If 
the inns are more Expensive than in France, the com- 
fort is greater also. The French talk much of the 
rapacity of the Swiss, and have a common saying, 
" Point d' argent fioint de Suisse ;" but it would be un- 
reasonable to expect that the Swiss should give their 
services gratuitously to strangers ; and, considering 
how much their country is frequented by strangers, 
the guides, servants, &c. he. pannot be accused of any 
particularly great extortion. Still, those who expect 
to find Switzerland a cheap country will be disappoint- 
ed, as many of their inns (particularly at Zurich) are 
more expensive than some in England. There can 
be, however, no country more agreeable to travel in 
than this, as the scene is continually varying, and pre- 
sents a succession of lofty mountains, forests, cultiva- 
ted grounds, lakes, rivers, and cascades, which will 
fully occupy the attention and excite the admiration of 
the tourist. The people are extremely civil, and those 
who understand German have assured me that they 
are also well informed. 

Although Anet is at such a short distance from the 
frontiers of Neufchatel, we found there were but two 
persons there who could speak French. One of them 
was our landlord who provided us with a guide to con- 
duct us to Mount lulemont, or Suslemont (which was 
the object we wished to see particularlyi from previ- 
ous report) as he could speak only German, our inten- 



154 

tions were explained to him by the landlord, and we 
managed, by signs, to understand enough for our pur- 
pose. Many of the German and English words have 
a strong resemblance ; and a stranger in Germany is 
more likely to be understood by trying English than 
French, where neither are spoken. We at length ar- 
rived on the mountain, and were much pleased with 
the extensive prospect from it, which resembles a 
vast chart or map ; the country surrounding us for 
many leagues in all directions, being flat, although the 
view was terminated by distant mountains. From hence 
we saw, at the same time, the three lakes of Neufcha- 
tel, Bienne, and Morat, which had a beautiful effect. 
A traveller should not fail to visit this place. We 
continued our walk in the afternoon to Arberg, three 
and a half leagues further, through a plain which pre- 
sented one of the most cheerful and interesting scenes 
I had seen. It was quite covered with peasants, enga- 
ged in ploughing out potatoes, and in gathering the 
leaves of the tobacco plant, of which there was a vast 
quantity. We were constantly occupied in returning 
their salutations, as they seldom fail to speak to pas- 
sengers. The country was mostly unenclosed. I here 
observed the first extensive beech woods I had yet 
seen on the Continent, which are occasionally mixed 
with fir, the most common timber in Switzerland. We 
arrived, after sunset, at Arberg, where we found good 
accommodation^ after the fatigues of the day. It takes 
its name from the river Aar, by which it is surrounded. 
At each end of the town is a wooden bridge covered^ 



155 



to preserve the timber from the weather. The town 
is a great thorough-fare between Berne, Neufchatel, 
and the Pays de Vaud ; and we observed, in the mar- 
ket place, several waggons stationed until morning. 



156 



CHAP. XIII. 

We proceeded next day to Morat. Its lake is about 
two leagues in length by three quarters of a league in 
breadth, and is said to be the only lake in Switzerland 
where that voracious fish, the silurus, is found. There 
are many vineyards in this vicinity, but the wine is very 
indifferent. It is, however, said to produce the best 
KiJ'schivasser^ or cherry brandy, in Switzerland. Mo- 
rat is celebrated in history for the memorable victory 
obtained under its wails, by the Swiss, over the formi- 
dable army of the last Duke of Burgundy in 1476. 
The bones of the Burgundians were piled up by way 
of monument on the field of battle. The triumph of 
the Swiss over their invaders was recorded by many 
inscriptions, of which the following is admired for its 
simplicity. 

D. O. M. 

Caroli incliti et fortissimi Burg-undiae ducis exercitus 

Muratum obsidiens, ab Helvetiis cxsus, hoc sui 

Monumentum reliquit, 1476. 

This trophy was destroyed by the French in 1798 ; 
as they, perhaps, feared that this memorial of the suc- 
cess of the Swiss, in contending for their liberty, should 
incite them again to rise against the descendants of 
those whom they had formerly defeated j and their 



157 

vanity was probably hurt by the existence of a record, 
disadvantageous to their countrymen. 

We dined at the neat little village of Seedorf, and 
proceeded in the evening in an open carriage to Berne. 
Part of the road is very hilly, and at one time we had 
an interesting prospect of the island of St. Pierre, and 
the end of the lake of Neufchatel, at about five or six 
leagues distance. About half a league from Berne 
we passed the Aar (which is here a broad and rapid 
stream) by a long bridge of wood, covered according 
to the general custom in Switzerland. 

The city of Berne presents a beautiful cou/i d'&il, 
and is one of the few places I have seen, where the 
interior does not greatly diminish the impression, oc- 
casioned by the distant prospect. The road was lined 
by lofty trees, and presented a very cheerful scene. 

Berne is deservedly considered as one of the hand- 
somest cities in Europe ; it stands on a hill surrounded, 
on two sides by the beautiful stream of the Aar ; it is 
surrounded by higher grounds richly cultivated, and 
interspersed with woods, whilst the view is terminated 
by the snowy summits of the Alps. 

The chief street is half a league in length. The 
houses, which are in general uniform, are built of free- 
stone upon piazzas, and have a stately appearance, and 
there are several towers, which add to the general 
effect. In the middle of the street, runs a rapid stream, 
and there is sufficient space for two carriages to pass 
at each side of it. Fountains are also placed at regu- 
lar distances. The piazzas are flagged and kept ex- 



158 

tremely neat ; but, I should think, that in this climate 
they must make the houses cold in winter. This was 
the first place since my departure from London, where 
I found a flagged way for the convenience of pedes- 
trians. 

Berne is not a city of very remote antiquity, having 
been founded in the year 1 191. It is 1650 feet above 
the level of the sea. The fortifications are kept in 
tolerable order, but from the height of most of the sur- 
rounding hills, above the city, cannot be considered as 
of much utility. In the trenches are kept several very 
large stags, and also several bears; there being an 
annual rent of 1 200 livres for their support. This ani- 
mal is thus favoured, as being the armorial bearing of 
the city (to which it gives name) and these arms are 
every where to be seen, there being few barns without 
them. There are many handsome churches in Berne : 
the tower of the cathedral is very fine, and it contains 
many windows of stained glass. The public library 
is well worth visiting \ as is also the botanic garden, 
which is on a most extensive scale ; in it is placed the 
tomb of the celebrated Haller. I was much struck by 
the great number of chemists' shops in Berne. The 
bakers' shops also are very numerous, and the bread 
is inferior to none in Europe. 

A stranger is surprised to see the convicts chained 
to the carts, which are constantly in use to keep the 
streets clean. I confess the sight displeased me, and 
this system would not be tolerated in England, where 
I think, ihere wa3 an attempt to introduce it during the 



!59 

reign of Edward the Sixth. The objects that most 
pleased me, at Berne, were the public walks, which 
are unequalled by any I have ever seen, in respect to 
their number, extent, and the neatness with which 
they are kept. The views from some of these walks 
are quite magnificent ; one, in particular, on an emi- 
nence beyond the city, which follows the course of the 
Aar for a long distance, commands a view which can 
never be forgotten by those who have seen it. The 
city is a striking object at a distance, from the number 
of its spires ; but although, from the spaciousness of 
its streets, it covers a good deal of ground, yet it is by 
no means populous, the inhabitants being only 1 1,500, 
but there are no mendicants. The public roads, in 
the Canton of Berne, are kept in excellent order, and 
every thing indicates the activity of the administration. 
The government is an aristocracy, and I was inform- 
ed the chief power of the state is vested in about 
twenty-four of the principal families. There are, 
doubtless, in general, many strong objections against 
this form of government, but the comfort, opulence, 
and appearance of content, which is remarked in the 
Bernese is such, that it is impossible to suppose they 
are not well governed ; the least observant traveller 
may soon perceive, by the appearance of a people, 
whether they are subject to a free or to a despotic 
government. I cannot, however, subscribe to Pope's 
opinion, 

* f That whichr is best administer'd is best." 



16* 

The form is still in my judgment the first requisite ; 
nor can I agree that the goodness consists in the mere 
administration. I visited the agricultural establish- 
ment of M. de Fellenberg, at Hofwyl, two leagues 
from Berne, where may be learnt the principles of 
rural economy, and where annual fetes are given for 
the encouragement of farming ; and I also made an 
excursion to Hindelbanck, three leagues distant, where 
is a much admired monument, erected from a design 
©f M. Nahl ; it represents his wife, who died in child- 
bed, breaking from her tomb with her child in her 
arms. The Canton of Berne, before the separation 
from it of the Cantons of Vaud and Argovia, formed 
about a third of Switzerland; its population is now 
about 300,000. The country is fruitful, but like the 
rest of Switzerland does not afford a sufficient supply 
©£ corn for its inhabitants. Its fruit and vegetables are 
excellent. Its mountains feed vast herds of cattle, 
and there is abundance of game. Its exports are prin- 
cipally horses, cottons, watches, and kirschwasser, (or 
spirit extracted from the cherry) there are manufacto- 
ries of silks, and woollen stuffs, and its gunpowder is 
in much estimation throughout Europe. The salt 
comes mostly from France, but does not cost above 
five sols the pound. Groceries are still dear, but are 
much reduced since the downfall of the continental 
system. This Canton first entered into the Swiss Con- 
federation, in 1353. I made some enquiries respecting 
the clergy, from a most respectable minister of my ac- 
quaintance, who informed me, that the senate appoint 



161 

to all ecclesiastical benefices — that the clergy are di- 
vided into synods, which assemble separately every 
year under the presidency of a Dean, to examine into 
the conduct of each pastor, and to deliberate in the 
presence of the Bailiff of the District, concerning eccle- 
siastical affairs. The criminal code is weil arranged, 
and justice is administered with a promptitude that 
merits the highest praise, since legal delay often proves 
worse than injustice. 

I was doubtful in what direction I should next pro- 
ceed, when I was induced, as the season was advanced, 
to give up the idea of visiting Oberland, and to accom- 
pany a gentleman going to Lucerne; if the country^ 
was less romantic than that which I lost the opportu- 
nity of seeing, I was with a companion who would 
have rendered an excursion in any country entertain- 
ing. We left Berne in an open carriage, and took the 
road to Worb, where we visited a saw-mill, and were 
much pleased with that useful invention. There are 
near the village several of the most extensive bleach- 
greens in Switzerland. At Luzelfliih we passed the 
river Fmmen, and soon after stopped some time whilst 
our horses rested. I have never been in a country 
where horses are taken better care of; they are always 
in excellent condition, and after mounting any conside- 
rable hill, the driver does not fail to give them some 
slices of bread. 

As we proceeded, we were struck with the profu- 
sion of autumnal crocuses, with which the fields were 
enlivened, and stopped to sieep at the inconsiderable 

j>.2 



3 62 

village of Sumiswald, where the inn, like the rest of 
the houses, was entirely built of wood. We were 
shewn into an apartment where several peasants were 
at supper, and on the table lay a newspaper, which 
(although its date was not very recent) seemed to in- 
terest them extremely. Several more peasants having 
come in, we were, as strangers, conducted into a more 
private room, but it was so small, as to give us the 
idea that we were in a box. Our hostess was not long 
in preparing supper, and as it was extremely frugal, 
she produced for us a bottle of Neufchatel wine, of 
much better quality tnan one could have expected to 
meet with in so retired a situation. We set out at an 
early hour next morning, and, after passing through a 
vast forest of fir, arrived to breakfast at Zeli, in the can- 
ton of Lucerne, where the number of chapels by the 
road-side announced that the Roman Catholic was the 
established religion. The valley beyond Zell is exten- 
sive and well watered. The peasants display much 
ingenuity in irrigating their meadows. The orchards 
are numerous, and, as well as the meadows, are re- 
freshed by ductile ttr earns. In the centre of the valley- 
rises a lofty eminence, on the summit of which are the 
remains of the castle of Hapstalla, which, half conceal- 
ed by a mass of wood, forms a conspicuous object 
amidst the cultivation of the surrounding scenery. The 
small towns of Huttweil and Willisau present nothing 
worthy of remark ; but Sursee is a neat town, and the 
lake oi Sempach adds great; y to the cheerful appear- 
ance of the country, which it waters to a considerable 



163 

extent. The town of Sempach is noted in history for 
the defeat of Leopold, Duke of Austria, in 1386, by 
the forces of the Swiss confederation. The Duke, 
together with his chief nobility, perished in the en- 
gagement, which is further memorable by the heroism 
of Arnold Winkdricd. The approach to Lucerne along 
the river- Reuss is singularly beautiful, the banks are 
steep and well wooded, and the distant appearance of 
the city, from the number of its turrets and spires, is 
highly impressive. Its situation is certainly superior 
to that of any city in Switzerland (Berne perhaps ex- 
cepted). The mountains which surround that part of 
the lake seen from the town, immediately reminded me 
of the magnificent scenery of Kiilarney. The beauty 
of its situation, and the imposing aspect which Lu- 
cerne presents at a distance, renders the gloominess of 
its interior the more striking ; and I do not know, 
whether coming from Berne, where all is activity, 
gave me the impression, but I think I never was in a 
more melancholy and deserted town of the same mag- 
nitude. The population is only 4,000 ; but, to judge 
from its extent, it might contain at least three times that 
number. It is difficult to account exactly for the causes 
of this inactivity, but I should be inclined to think some 
blame attaches to its government, as here are no traces 
of that beneficial superintendence which is so percep- 
tible at Berne. This city cannot even boast of a pub- 
lic library. There are at Lucerne several curious 
wooden bridges, to join the different parts of the town 
separated by the river and the lake. They are from 



164 

5 to 600 feet in length, and one of them contains a vast 
number of paintings from scriptural subjects, and also 
from the Swiss history. 

There are several handsome buildings at Lucerne, 
but many towns that cannot boast of such a number, 
much exceed it in general appearance. 

We observed a great quantity of fruit for sale, and 
good peaches for one sol each. The celebrated plan, 
or rather model, of this and the three surrounding 
cantons, by General Pfiffer, is to be seen here on pay- 
ment of thirty sols ; it is well worthy of a visit, and 
the General is said to have refused ten thousand 
pounds for it. Buonaparte is said to have wished to 
possess it. 

The lake of Lucerne, called also the lake of the Four 
Cantons, or the Waldstralltr See, is one of the most 
picturesque pieces of water in Switzerland, and by its 
numerous windings, as well as by the rivers which fall 
into it, affords facilities for commerce, which are as- 
tonishingly neglected. 

Mont Piiate rises majestically from the lake. It is, 
perhaps, one of the highest mountains in Switzerland, 
If measured from its base, and not from the level of 
the sea. Its elevation from the level of the lake is, 
according to the measurement of General Pfiffer, not 
less than 6,000 feet. Its name was, it is thought, given 
it by the Romans, from the accumulation of snow upon 
its summit. 

Mount Rigi, so generally visited by travellers, pre- 
sents another distinguished feature in this romantic 



165 

country. The ascent to this mountain having bees 
witnin a few clays rendered extremely difficult by a fall 
of snow, we were advised not to attempt it, and I the 
more readily acquiesced, having found the ascent to 
Montanvert difficult, although unobstructed with snow. 
I therefore set out to visit two classic spots in the his- 
tory of Switzerland, which distinguish the banks of 
this lake ; first, the Griitli (the Runnimede of Swit- 
zerland) a field now covered with fruit trees, where the 
neighbouring cantons on the 12th of November, 1307, 
first took the engagement to found the liberty of their 
country. They carried their plan into execution on 
the 1st of January, 1308, by forcing their tyrannical 
governors to quit a country thenceforward destined to 
be free. The second place is about a league and a 
half distant, it is the Rock of Aschen-berg, 5240 feet 
above the level of the lake (which is here 800 feet 
deep) on a part of which, called Tell Platte, that patriot 
killed the tyrant Gessler ; here is a small chapel. I 
also visited the little town of Gersau (which was, by 
the French, united to the canton of Schweitz), remark- 
able as being the smallest republic existing in Europe, 
as it contains only one hundred square toises, and from 
900 to 1000 inhabitants, who subsist chiefly by agri- 
culture ; there is, besides, a small manufactory of cot- 
ton. Their metropolis is a neat village, where only, 
perhaps, a pure democracy subsisted without anarchy 
and dissentions. 

The canton of Schweitz, which, at present, give& 
name generally to the whole confederation of cantons, 



166 

is said to have been first inhabited by some persons 
forced to quit Sweden by religious differences. The 
union of this canton to those of Uri and Unterwald, 
first suggested that more extended confederacy so es- 
sential to the existence of these diminutive states. 

Here the Roman Catholic is the only religion tole- 
rated, but intolerance in Switzerland is not peculiar to 
the Roman Catholic cantons, as in some, Calvinism 
only is permitted. At Brunnen I met some persons 
going on a pilgrimage to the shrine of Notre Dame des 
Ermites, at Einsiedlen, one of whom was a French- 
man, decorated with the Lys. It would be well for 
the Bourbons if all their subjects were possessed of 
but a small part of the loyalty which this gentleman 
expressed for them. Brunnen is a large and handsome 
town, situated on the lake ; it was here that the can* 
tons of Schweitz, Uri, and Unterwald, concluded their 
perpetual alliance. Altorf is the capital of the canton 
of Uri, it contains many handsome houses, and here is 
the statue of William Tell, in the place where he was 
condemned to shoot the arrow at his son. The cattle 
in this canton, as well as in Schweitz, are large and 
handsome. I was told that many of their favourite 
cows hid silver bells fastened round their necks. The 
horses are also provided with bells of a large size, the 
noise of which I thought extremely unpleasant, al- 
though often obliged to listen to it for many hours 
together. Stantz is the chief town of Unterwald, but 
is only remarkable for its being prettily situated. In 
the three original cantons* every citizen on attaining 



167 

the age of sixteen, has the right of suffrage in the 
General Assemblies. On my return to Lucerne from 
this excursion, it appeared more gloomy than ever> 
and I determined on quitting it next morning for Zug. 
The Pope's nuncio resides in this town, as being. the 
capital of the chief Roman Catholic canton, and i ob- 
served sentinels at his door, although there were none 
at the gates of the city. Lucerne was, under the 
French system, the seat of the general government of 
Switzerland, now removed to Zurich. The canton of 
Lucerne is, in general, well cultivated, and contains not 
less than 100,000 inhabitants. Between Lucerne and 
Zug, I observed a number of peasants practising with 
the ancient weapons of William Tell, which they ap- 
peared to use with great dexterity. 

The badness of the road retarded considerably our 
arrival at Zug (Zoug, as it is pronounced and written 
in German) ; a small but neat town, and the capital 
and only town of its canton, which is the least in Swit- 
zerland, containing only 30,000 inhabitants, of whom 
2,500 inhabit the capital. The lake, which washes the 
town, is about three leagues long by one broad j one 
side of it presents a few mountains, but the other 
(nearest the town) is flat, marshy, and uninteresting. 
Between Zug and Zurich we passed over the field of 
battle, where Zuingle, the reformer, lost his life ; the 
plain is, I think, called Cappel. The road, which is 
still indifferent, passes through a country which resem- 
bles a continued orchard. We passed the river Sill 
by a long covered bridge, and stopped at a neat inn, 



168 

where we found some honey not inferior to any in 
France, although here they do not think it necessary 
(as in Poitou) to carry the hives of bees about the 
country, that by travelling they may collect every sort 
of perfume it affords. Above the inn is a mountain of 
vast height, which commands an extensive prospect 
over the surrounding country. We soon after beheld 
one of the most magnificent scenes of which Switzer- 
land can boast, the view of the lake of Zurich, from the 
hill above the village of Horgen. As it was evening 
when we arrived there, I could judge of the justness 
of Zimmerman's beautiful description of it at that time, 
which I had often admired at a period when I had but 
faint expectation of ever seeing the scene itself. 

Before visiting Switzerland, I had often felt surprise, 
on considering the great variety of states which subsist 
in a country of such comparatively limited extent ; 
but I no longer felt that astonishment, when I saw how 
completely many of the cantons are divided from each 
other, by chains of mountains, and how greatly their 
inhabitants differ in their dress, manners, and religion. 
In one day, in the cantons of Berne, Lucerne, and Zug, 
I saw three perfectly distinct modes of dress ; and the 
enormous sleeves and crape head dresses of Berne^ 
compared with the large flat hats, and short petticoats 
of Lucerne, are as totally different costumes as could 
be supposed to prevail in two of the most remote coun- 
tries. The political divisions of Switzerland, are al- 
most as numerous as its geographical ; and there are 
few countries where more diversities of opinion pre- 



169 

vail, respecting the means of securing that liberty 
which is the boast of its inhabitants. 

At a distance, Zurich seems surrounded by beauti- 
ful hills, descending gradually to the river Limmat, 
which, issuing from the lake, divides the city into two 
unequal parts. These hills are rich in pastures and 
vineyards, interspersed with neat cottages ; the hori- 
zon is bounded by the mountains of Utliberg, which 
are connected with the Alps ; forming, altogether, a 
very striking and interesting picture. 



170 



CHAP. XIV. 

On entering Zurich, it is impossible not to feel a 
sensation of disappointment, as its internal appearance 
by no means corresponds with the beauty of the distant 
scene. Its streets are narrow and winding, and the 
houses are mostly of mean architecture, but there are 
few places where I observed more of the activity of 
commerce. Many of its churches and public build- 
ings are handsome. It boasts of a population of 
i 4,000, a number exceeding that of any town in 
Switzerland, Geneva excepted. The Canton is next 
in importance to Berne, and contains 180,000 inhabi- 
tants. 

The reformation was introduced here in 1523, by 
Ulric Zuingle, whose death was noticed in the last 
chapter; he, like Pofie Julius, exchanged for a time 
the mitre for the helmet. The inns at Zurich are 
more expensive than the hotels at Paris ; they say it is 
owing to this being the seat of the Swiss Diet. I had 
the honour of dining in company with several of the de- 
puties (at the public table at the Sword Tavern) and 
they seemed very inquisitive as to the state of affairs 
in England. Our company exceeded thirty, and the 
dinner was unusually tedious : this seems to have been 
exheetcd, as there were pans of charcoal or ashes, pla- 
ced under the principal dishes, which had a very un- 



171 

pleasant effect. A band of mimic, stationed in an 
adjoining room, only served to add to the confused 
noise of the servants, without allowing us to judge of 
the beauty of the music, or of the merits of the musi- 
cians ; and I felt no regret when the master of the band 
at length thought fit that we should purchase an inter- 
val of quiet. Before I quitted Zurich, I was desirous 
of making an excursion on its lake, and accordingly 
joined a party in visiting Rapperschwill, which is situ- 
ated in a charming country, but is chiefly remarkable 
*or its bridge, constructed of wood, over that part of the 
lake which is by a promontory reduced to the width of 
1800 feet, forming, perhaps, the longest bridge in Eu- 
rope, except that of St. Esprit, near Nismes, which is 
3000 feet. The bridge of Prague is 1700 feet, and that 
of Westminster 1200. 

Soon after my return from this excursion, I set out 
for Schaff hausen ; but after we had lost sight of the 
lake and the city of Zurich, the country had nothing to 
interest the traveller. About a league from Zurich is 
the Greinfensee, but that piece of water is not interest- 
ing, either in point of scenery or extent. The river 
Glatt flows through the plain; it has none of the char- 
acteristics of a Swiss stream," but choked with sedges 
works its weary way." 

About two leagues further, we passed the river J6ss, 
which, by the beauty of its windings amongst wooden 
hills (on one of which stands an ancient castle) convin- 
ced us that we had not yet altogether bid farewell to the 
romantic scenery of Switzerland. 



172 

The woods here are very extensive, and almost en- 
tirely composed of fir; they produce annually a suc- 
cession of plants which form an underwood, and greatly 
contribute to the beauty of the scene, by concealing the 
naked stems of the older trees. 

The houses in the villages in the canton of Zurich 
much resemble those in England, being mostly built 
of plaster, and roofed with tiles. I was pleased with 
this change after the heavy wooden houses, and pro- 
jecting roofs (of nearly three times the height of the 
building) usually seen in the canton of Berne. They 
do not tend to enliven the country like those of Zurich) 
where the eye notices the contrast between the whiten- 
ed cottages and the green meadows. We spent a day 
at Winterthur, which is a considerable municipal town, 
rendered lively by trade. The manufactory of oil of 
vitriol is on a large scale, and is worthy of attention. 
There are several bleach-greens in the neighbourhood, 
as well as many vineyards, but of no great celebrity. 
The public library is extensive, and there is also a 
considerable collection of medals. 

We left Winterthur on foot, as the bridge over the ri- 
ver Tnur was unaer repair, and noi passable for a carri- 
age, and as we wished to approach tne fall of the Rhine 
by this road. We breakfasted at Adding -efeythgeq ieagues 
distant, and near the town were ferried over the Thur. 

About two hours afterwards, we heard the distant 
roar of the Cataract, and although I had heard so much 
previously of the grandeur of the scene, yet I was not 
disappointed with the sight. There are many fall* 



173 

much greater in point of height, and I had seen two 
previously which exceeded the present one in that par- 
ticular, but then the force of water was there inconsi- 
derable and uncertain: here one of the greatest rivers 
in Europe falls with inconceivable force down a perpen- 
dicular height from sixty to eighty feet. The colouv 
of the Rhine is greenish, and the mixture of the water 
with the foam has a curious effect. The castle of 
Lauffen hangs over the river, and appears to tremble 
from the force of the Cataract. 

The surrounding scenery is bold and picturesque, 
and when viewed from a boat on the river, the effect is 
very striking. There is a camera obscura placed in an 
ancient castle, which projects into the river, and which 
we admired extremely. It is supposed that the height, 
of this celebrated cascade is much diminished from 
what it was formerly, and if we consider the vast force 
of the torrent which the rock has sustained for ages, 
it seems but reasonable to conclude, that it must have 
yielded to such powerful and long continued assaults. 
We remained a considerable time contemplating this 
magnificent scene, and then returned through the vil- 
lage of Lauffen, and observed that the spire of its 
church was covered with painted tiles, which in this 
district seem a common species of decoration. 

We observed the peasants in many places employed 
in making cyder, which they but seldom think of doing 
except the season has proved unfavourable for the 
vines. I was told that nere, as in Burgundy, the last 
favourable vintage was that 0/I8II, and that conse- 

r > « 



174 

qucntly the' proprietors of the vineyards (of which 
the cultivation is so expensive) were much distressed. 

The red stockings of the peasants in this canton 
have a remarkable appearance, and reminded me of 
the dress of the theatre. 

Sch?cffhausen is the capital of the canton of that 
name, and is built on the right bank of the Rhine. Its 
bridge is but lately completed, in the place of the an- 
cient one, constructed by Grubenman, which was con- 
sidered as a great architectural curiosity, but was 
destroyed during one of the campaigns in this country. 
The town of Schaffhausen is well built, and has a 
handsome appearance. Its population is calculated 
at 7000, and that of the canton at 23,000. 

The reformed religion was introduced here in 1529, 
The clergy are paid by the state, but their allowance 
is far from liberal. Many swnptuary laws exist here, 
aria dancing is prohibited by them, except under par- 
ticular circumstances. I am, however, inclined to 
question whether these laws are stiil enforced. 

In the vicinity of the town are some manufactories 
of linens, cottons, and silks. The country, is weli cul- 
tivated, and the road between Ocrlingen and Bancken 
affords an extensive prospect of the Swiss mountains, 
which seem ranged in array to bid a last farewell 
to the departing traveller, who cannot but feel regret 
on leaving a country not less distinguished- for the 
mapn' licence of its scenery, than for the simplicity and 
good nature of its inhabitants. 



\75 

At Schaff hausen I made many inquiries respecting 
the celebrated Schabeevge or Bhafisi'grS cheese (made 
in the canton of Glarus) and found that the principal 
ingredient which gives it so strong a perfume is the 
trifoiium odoratum, or meliot odorant. Tne aromatic 
qualities of this cheese render it very wholesome. — 
The Swiss tea, composed of mountain herbs, is said to 
be so likewise ; it is not, however, very palatable as a 
beverage, nor should I think it very effectual as a re- 
medy. If it meets in general with no greater appro- 
bation than it did in a party where I saw it tried, Swit- 
zerland cannot expect to carry on a trade in this article, 
sufficient to prejudice the exclusive commerce which 
the East India! Company enjoy with China. 

Tnere being nothing to detain me at Schaffhausen, 
I was induced at the request of a Doctor of the Univer- 
sity of Leipsic, with whom I became acquainted at Zu- 
rich, to join him in proceeding in the diligence into 
Germany. I found this conveyance, although tedious, 
yet iittie if at all inferior to those in France (although 
I nad understood the contrary in that country). The 
Doctor would have been a most agreeable companion, 
but for his unfortunate love of tobacco; his pipe was 
hardly well extinguished, before he was busy in striking 
his flint to rekindle it. He seemed much surprised 
that I did not smoke, and still more so when I told nim 
it was not usual in England to smoke in company ; for in 
Germany, after dinner and in the evening, when k.dies 
are present, it is usual to smoke a segar. The Doctor 
seemed to meditate a journey into England, but I doubt 



176 

whether he will find any thing there sufficient to afford 
him an equivalent for the abandonment of the six 
/li/ies which he told me he used alternately at Leip- 
sic. 

The others who composed our party had also their 
pipes, but were moderate in using them. 

The Germans are an extremely civil people compa- 
red with the French ; a traveller is better treated 
among them, without the perpetual affectation of supe- 
riority ; and in the parts where I have been, he will 
have no reason to regret the change from a French to 
a German inn. 

The general civility I met with in Germany^ and 
the pains the people often take to make themselves 
understood, as well as to understand, and supply what- 
ever might be requisite, claims my best acknowledg- 
ments. I had occasion to observe the truth of the 
remark, that there are many words, and expressions, 
very similar in the English and German languages; 
they further agree in being the two languages in Eu- 
rope, the most difficult to be learnt by a stranger. 

The Sunday dress of the peasants resembles that 
worn a century ago in England. Woollen caps are 
little used in Germany; and in Suabia, I observed 
cocked hats were very general. 

It was late in the day when we left Schaffhausen. 
Our road lay through a country, where the succession 
of woods, shewed us, that the Black Forest, although 
reduced, was not destroyed, and occasionally we had 
extensive views towards Switzerland. We had fallen 



177 

into that sort of reverie which most travellers experi- 
ence towards the close of the day, and which generally 
suspends conversation, the mind finding entertainment 
in its own illusions, when we were roused by finding 
ourselves in Deutlingen. We here passed the Da- 
nube, which is inconsiderable, when compared with 
the vast size it afterwards acquires, by the junction of 
other considerable rivers, in the various countries 
which it fertilizes by its waters. We reposed here for 
some hours, and to my astonishment the Doctor, lay- 
ing aside his pipe, entertained us with his performance 
on a piano forte, which was in the room, and when 
his tea arrived his piace was occupied by another per- 
former. 

The passion of the Germans for music is very 
strong, and certainly this was a more agreeable mode 
of passing the evening, than the tiresome recurrence 
of political discussions, so general in France, and which 
seldom fail to end in unpleasant altercations. At Deut- 
lingen we entered the kingdom of Wurtemberg ; and 
our passports, which had been signed previously to cur 
leaving SchafFhausett, were here re-examined : at Stut- 
gard Uicy were again demanded, and although the 
Royal Arms were affixed by the police there, yet at 
Liiuwigsburg, wc were detained half an hour for fur- 
ther scrutiny, although it is only one sta^e from Siut- 
gard. The Grand DuK.es of Baden, and of Iiosse 
Darmstadt, whose dominions we next entereci, were 
less suspicious, and were satisfied at our writing clown 
our names and destination. Tnere are lew countries 



178 

more sub-divided than Germany. Its ancient consti- 
tution was described as, " Confusio divinitus conser- 
•vata" and a confusion it certainly was, for the circle 
of Suabia alone contained four ecclesiastical, and thir- 
teen secular principalities : nineteen independent abbies 
and prelacies, and thirty -one free cities. This list was> 
however, greatly reduced during Buonaparte's supre- 
macy in Germany ; he encreased the dominions of Ba- 
den, Bavaria, and Wurtemberg, with the spoils of the 
ecclesiastical possessions, and of the free cities. He 
nearly doubled the territory of Wurtemberg, and its 
population was increased from 700,000 to 1,300,000. 
The territory of Baden is of great length, but narrow ; 
its population is now increased to 940,000. The Ger- 
mans are, in general, extremely anxious for the esta- 
blishment of the ancient system ; as, notwithstanding 
its defects, it afforded them an appeal from the tyranny 
of their numerous sovereigns to the Diet and the Em- 
peror, besides that it united the Germans as one fie o file. 
On the dissolution of the old system, the several prin- 
ces of the " Confederation of the Rhine" became abso- 
lute over their own subjects, but military vassals to 
Buonaparte, who, like Cade, was content they should 
reign, but took care to be Viceroy over them. 

The game laws are much and justly complained of 
in Germany. In Wurtemberg they are particularly 
oppressive. The farmers, however, seem more opu- 
lent than in France. The possessions of many of the 
nobility are much neglected, as they reside almost en- 
tirely at one of the great capitals. Suabia is ^enerallf 



179 

unenclosed, and is not often enlivened by country hou- 
ses, the inhabitants residing together in villages. Its 
trade consists in the sale of its cattle, which are in vast 
numbers, together with that of its corn^ wood and wines, 
which are occasionally of tolerable good quality. The 
kingdom of Wurtemberg is extremely fruitful, and is 
well watered by the Necker, as well as by several 
smaller streams. After supplying its own population, 
which is as numerous as can be found in most parts of 
Europe of the same extent, it exports vast quantities 
of grain to Switzerland. Almost the whole kingdom 
consists of well-wooded mountains, and of cultivated 
plains ; and farming seems to be well understood. 

The posts are conducted in a much better manner 
than I had expected. The drivers are all provided 
with a French horn, and wear the royal livery, yellow 
and black, with which colours also the direction-posts 
are painted. The roads are in excellent order, and 
miie-stones are regularly placed ; these roads are 
vastly superior to those in the states of Baden and 
Darmstadt, where there are a number of turnpikes. 
The traveller cannot fail to perceive that the activity 
of the government of Wurtemberg, much exceeds 
that of many of the surrounding states. We break- 
fasted at Bahlingen, a handsome and regularly built 
town. Here we witnessed a dreadful accident : the 
conductor of the diligence, a large and heavy man, 
whilst arranging some packages, fell from the top of 
the carriage into the street, and Jaid open one side of 
his head, and had he fallen on a pavement, it would 



180 

probably have proved fatal. A surgeon was immedi- 
ately sent for, who informed us that the wound was not 
very deep, and that he hoped it would have no serious 
effects. Our next stage was Heckingen, in the little 
state of Hohenzollern. The ancient castle of that 
name is situated on an eminence, and is visible, for 
many leagues, in all directions. The territories of 
this state are about fifteen miles by ten, and contain 
about 30,000 inhabitants : but I believe there are two 
reigning families ; those of Hohenzollern Heckingen 
and Hohenzollern Sigmaringen. This house is of con- 
siderable eminence ; the royal family of Prussia are 
descended from a junior branch, which became pos- 
sessed by purchase of the Margraviate of Branden- 
burg, and thus founded a power, which being aggran- 
dized by the policy of succeeding sovereigns, now holds 
so distinguished a place in the political scale of Eu- 
rope. We soon quitted the territories of the princes 
of Hohenzollern, and again entered Wurtemberg, and 
after passing for several leagues over a highly im- 
proved country arrived at Tubingen. 



181 



• 



CHAP. XV. 

Tubingen is a large and handsome town, containing 
about 5000 inhabitants ; its situation is low, and it is 
chiefly worthy of notice, as being one of the most cele- 
brated universities of the south of Germany. I was 
informed by one of its members who travelled in the 
Diligence, that the number of students did not then 
exceed 250, but that he had no doubt it would increase 
as public affairs assumed a more settled appearance. 
Here is little of that academic discipline, which distin- 
guishes our universities. There are no colleges, and 
the students live in private houses, according to their 
respective inclinations. There are eight professors, 
and an attendance on the lectures of such of them as 
the student may prefer, seems to constitute the sum of 
his academic duty. There is a large botanic garden, 
which is kept in good order, and contains a long range 
of green -houses and stoves. 

I here agreed to accompany a gentleman of my ac- 
quaintance, who wished to travel fiost to Frankfort : 
and had no reason to regret having left the Diligence, 
with the tediousness of which I was heartily tired. We 
set out accordingly in a sort of cabriolet, resembling a 
covered curricle, for Stutgard. We found much less 
delay at each post than we were led to expect ; and 

R 



182 

part of the time was employed in greasing and ex- 
amining the wheels of the carriage before starting : 
this custom prevents many accidents, for that ope- 
ration for which no time is specified, is commonly ne- 
glected. 

The price of each station is regulated by govern- 
ment ; and the postmasters and drivers are very civil 
and obliging ; but the celerity with which every thing 
is procured at an English inn, is not to be expected 
here, as the Germans are habitually slow in all their 
movements. 

A German dinner is still more tedious than a French 
one, and it is perhaps yet more foreign to our taste. 
The custom of sleeping between feather beds, as it 
may be altered by the traveller, if unpleasant to him, 
cannot be considered as a grievance ; but all who have 
been accustomed to the social and companionable cheer" 
fulness of a fire, must regret that custom, which here 
substitutes f*r it, the dull and un enlivening heat of a 
stove. 

That fire-place, which is so essential to the comfort 
of our apartments, is by German taste placed in the 
passage and shut up, whilst heat is conveyed into their 
rooms by Rues. 

We arrived at Stutgard without the occurrence of 
any thing worthy of mention, and were much pleased 
with its general appearance ; its streets are spacious, 
and the houses mostly well built. The city has in- 
creased considerably in size, since it has become the 
constant residence of its sovereign. Its population is 



133 

estimated at 24,000. It is an open place, but although 
there are no fortifications there are gates, the only use 
of which are to detain the traveller whilst his passport 
is under examination. The reformed religion is here 
established, but the churches have nothing to boast of 
in appearance. The palace is a handsome building of 
Italian architecture, surrounding three sides of a 
square. It is built of hewn stone, and over the centre 
entrance is placed a large gilt c?'own. Not far from 
the modern palace is the ancient Chateau, surrounded 
by a deep ditch, and flanked by gloomy bastions, for- 
merly the requisites to a prince's residence, but in- 
compatible with the luxury sought for in a modern 
palace. 

Wishing to judge of the taste of a German palace, 
we procured a Valet de Place to conduct us over this ; 
we found it fitted up in a manner which corresponded 
in many points to that usual in great houses in Eng- 
land. The suites of rooms are very numerous, but 
they are mostly of small dimensions. Every apart- 
ment is provided with a musical clock. The marbles, 
carpets, china, and glass lustres, are generally the pro- 
duction of Wurtemberg. Many of these productions 
display much taste, and seem to deserve the encour- 
agement they receive. 

A few of the rooms had fire-places, and almost all of 
them had to boast of some specimens of the industry 
and ingenuity of the Queen, either in painting or em* 
broidery. There is a museum of considerable extent, 
which opens into the King's Private Library, where 



184 

the books are all concealed behind large mirrors, so 
that we could not judge of either the value or taste of 
the selection. In a building near the palace is the 
King's Public Library, but we were told there was 
nothing in it particularly worthy of notice. There are 
but very few paintings by the great masters in this 
palace ; but we were particularly struck by a por- 
trait of Frederick the Great, by a German artist. I 
have forgotten his name j but this portrait proves his 

skill. 

The Council Chamber is a handsome apartment, and 
contains two marble figures of Silence and Meditation. 
The Council Table is long and narrow, which would 
not meet with Lord Baco?i's approbation, as, if I recol- 
lect right, he gives the preference to a round table, 
where all may take a part, instead of a long one, where 
those at the top chiefly decide. We next visited the 
royal stables, which contain a vast number of fine 
horses, the King being very fond of the chase. 

I was informed, that in his Private Stables here and 
at Ludwigsburg, there were from 700 to 800 horses, a 
number which exceeds that of most princes in Europe. 
The garrison of Stutgard consists of about 3000 men. 
We saw some of the troops go through their evolu- 
tions ; and I have seldom seen a finer body of men. 
The band was remarkably fine. On the parade were 
two little boys, sons of Prince Paul, who were decorated 
with stars. Having sufficiently satisfied our curiosity 
at Stutgard, we proceeded to Ludwigsburg, one stage 
distant, where there is a handsome royal palace adorn- 



ed with extensive gardens, and many enclosures for 
game, of great extent. The town is not large, but is 
regularly built ; and the houses, as at Stutgard and 
many other places in Germany, are remarkable for 
having a vast number of windows. After some delay 
about /iass/w?'ts, we were suffered to proceed, as they 
sometimes will not give post horses without examining 
the passports. Beyond the town we met several wag- 
gons, one of them I remarked was drawn by fourteen 
horses. There is much more traffic on this road than 
on any I had yet travelled. 

We passed through but one great town, Heilbron, 
formerly an imperial free city, but which, together 
with Uim and many others, was given by Buonaparte 
to the King of Wurtemberg. It is a tolerably well 
built place ; and from the number of vessels in the 
river, I conclude it has a share of trade. The country 
round it was unenclosed, and for a great distance we 
saw no pastures, so that they must support their cattle. 
on artificial crops. At Furfeld we could procure no 
accommodation, it being full of company ; we were_, 
therefore, notwithstanding the lateness of the hour, 
obliged to go on to Sinzheim. We parried the rain 
tolerably well (the carriages are but partly covered) 
with our umbrellas ; and escaped narrowly a more se- 
rious disaster, having been nearly overturned by a 
waggon, which broke one side of our carriage 

W T e found the inn small, but the people particularly 
obliging. I perceived that they expected some per- 
sonage of great importance, as the landlady questionera 

8.3 



136 

•ur driver repeatedly whether Der Cossack had arri- 
ved al the last stage. It was not, however, until we 
had retired to rest, that the expected guest arrived ; 
and if importance is to be measured by noise, his must 
have been great indeed. 

Our road to Heidelberg lay for several miles along 
the banks of the Necker, which are well wooded, and 
adorned with several villages, and a large convent. 
The gate by which we entered Heidelberg, is a re- 
markably fine piece of Grecian architecture. The 
city is large and well built ; but there is little appear- 
ance of trade or activity amongst its inhabitants. The 
Castle is situated on a steep hill above the town, and 
its terrace commands a vast prospect over a plain, en- 
livened by the windings of the river, as well as by the 
spires of the city. This palace was the residence of 
the electors palatine, and must have been a fine piece 
of Gothic architecture. It was laid waste, together 
with the whole palatinate, in consequence of those 
orders which will for ever disgrace the memory of 
Louis the Fourteenth. 

It is, however, still striking ; and although the scene 
is silent and desolate, it is unquestionably grand. 

In a building adjoining the castle, is the famed Tun 
if Heidelberg, constructed by one of the electors at the 
suggestion of his buffoon, whose statue is placed near 
this enormous tun, which can contain 326,000 bottles. 
We were told that the jester (some will not allow him 
to be called the -foot) assisted his master in drinking 
eighteen bottles of the best Rhenish wine daily. The 



187 

table where they sat, near the tun, is still shewn. The 
counuy about Heidelberg- and Manheim is from its 
fertility called the Garden of Germany ; but I have 
seen in Germany much finer districts. It is a well 
cultivated plain, and abounds with vineyards : beyond 
Manheim is a greater extent of ground under potatoes, 
than I have ever met with before out of Ireland. There 
is but little wood, and the roads run between rows of 
walnut and cherry trees. Manheim is considered as 
one of the handsomest cities in Germany, being built 
on a regular plan. It consists of twelve streets, inter- 
sected at right angles by eight others ; but there is in 
this regularity a sameness which soon tires the eye. 

The Rhine passes close on one side of the city, and 
the Necker washing the other side, soon after falls 
into the Rhine, over which there is a bridge of boats. 
The palace is in a fine situation, and next to Versailles^ 
is the largest structure for the residence of a sove- 
reign that I have seen. This city became the resi- 
dence of the electors palatine, after the destruction of 
the Castle of Heidelberg, and the palace was erected 
in consequence. On the accession of the reigning 
family to Bavaria, Munich became their capital, and 
this palace was neglected. Subsequent changes have 
transferred this country to the Grand Duke of Baden, 
who continues to reside at Carlsruhe. 

It would now require vast sums to restore this edi- 
fice, which will probably be soon as desolate as the 
Castle of Heidelberg, with which, however, it could 
never stand a comparison, either in point of situation 



188 

or architecture. There are some handsome walks 
near the palace, which extend along the Ruine, where 
the fortifications have been demolished. There are 
some spacious squares in the city ; that before the 
town-house is adorned by a handsome bronze fountain, 
The population of the city has been estimated at 
24,000 ; but it has probably rather diminished of late. 
Several of the trades-people exhibit the arms of Baden 
over their shops, and boast of supplying their sove- 
reign's family with various articles ; but trade has 
every appearance of being here at a very low ebb. 
The road for some leagues beyond Manneim was by- 
far the worst we had yet passed in Germany ; but then 
we had made a detour in visiting jVlanheim,* which 
does not lie on the direct road to Frankfort. 

The next place of any note was Darmstadt, the resi- 
dence of the Grand Duke of Hesse Darmstadt : it 
seems a place of recent origin, where much has been 
attempted and but little completed. There are seve- 
ral spacious streets marked out, and a few good houses 
dispersed over a considerable extent of ground, which 
give it a melancholy appearance. 

Its situation is not well chosen, as it is in a sandy 
plain, without any river in the vicinity. 

We visited the old castle or palace, situated in the 
centre of the town, which seems now used as a barrack. 
The number of troops seemed very considerable, and 
they are not inferior to the Wurtembergers hi appear- 
ance. Near the old palace are handsome gardens laid 
out in the English taste, which were much frequented 



189 

on Sunday. The present Grand Duke inhabits a palace 
in the suburbs, which has little to boast of. 

A few hours drive brought us to Frankfort. The 
country for the most part is flat, and abounds with 
woods, but, except near Frankfort, has little to interest 
the traveller. We found that great commercial city 
fully answerable to our expectations. Every thing 
announces the opulence of its inhabitants. The streets 
are spacious, and adorned with houses far surpassing 
any that either Paris or London can boast of. Some 
of the great merchants may be literally said to inhabit 
palaces. There are a vast number of inns; some of 
them are on a great scale, and worthy to be ranked 
among the best in Europe. I observed in the streets 
here a greater number of handsome private carriages 
than I had seen in Paris. Although the situation of 
Frankfort is not remarkable, in a picturesque point of 
view, when compared with some other cities, yet it is 
extremely advantageous for its inhabitants, being pla- 
ced in the centre of the richest country in Germany, 
whilst the Mein and Rhine afford every facility for 
commerce. The roads are also in excellent order. 
That between Frankfort and Mayence is paved, and is 
perhaps the most frequented in Germany. There are 
various well-known manufactories, and the shops are 
supplied with the productions of all countries. I first 
noticed here the custom of having small mirrors pro- 
jecting into the streets, thai: the inhabitants may see, by 
reflection, what passes in them. 



190 

The advantages of Frankfort for commerce have 
attracted a vast number of Jews, and reconcile them to 
many regulations, imposed by the magistrates, which 
otherwise they would not submit to. Their numbers 
are said to exceed 6,000 in a total population of nearly 
50,000. The fame of Frankfort is not, however, mere- 
ly of a commercial nature. It can boast of having pro- 
duced many of the most eminent literary characters of 
Germany. 

All religions are here tolerated ; but, under its old 
constitution, the members of government were Luthe- 
rans, and Calvinists were excluded from any share in 
the management of affairs. The present magistrates 
are only provisionally appointed since the late change 
in its situation. The cathedral is a venerable Goinic 
edifice, as is also the town-house; but Frankfort is 
more remarkable for a general air of magnificence 
than for the exclusive elegance of any particvnar build- 
ings. Thece are seven or eight gates to the city, 
some of which are handsome, and adorned with statues 
of many worthies, whose names I could not learn. The 
busts of Alexander and Roxana were however too con- 
spicuous to escape notice ; but their connexion with 
Frankfort I am not antiquary enough to trace. Frank- 
fort cannot be considered as a fortified place. Its bas- 
tions are planted with shrubs, and form a pleasant 
walk tor its citizens. Hamburg has recently afforded 
a meiancholy example of the evil which walls may 
brhig upon a commercial city; and the people of 
Frankfort cannot regret the use to wiiich their bas- 



191 

t-ions are applied. I was, by the favour of a merchant, 
to whom I had an introduction, admitted as a tempora- 
ry member of the Casino, or Public Institution. It is 
one of the best conducted establishments I have seen. 
There are not less than 1 10 nevvs/ia/iers, besides other 
periodical publications ; and after an interval of two 
months, I was glad again to peruse an English news- 
paper. The reading-room, like the council-chamber 
at Stutgard, is adorned by a figure of Silence, and I 
think the hint seems well observed. There are, how- 
ever, several very spacious and elegantly decorated 
apartments, for conversation, cards, billiards, &c. — 
These rooms are frequented by ladies in the evenings, 
and then bear some resemblance to a London rout. 
The concerts at Frankfort are remarkably good. There 
is only one theatre ; and, as the performance was 
in German, I only went once out of curiosity. The 
number of villas around Frankfort are numerous and 
handsome, and the villages are large, and have every 
appearance of opulence. Here are many fine or- 
chards, and the cider of Afchaffenburg can be only 
distinguished from wine by a connoisseur. 

At Hochst, six miles from Frankfort, stands the 
large edifice noticed by Dr. Moore, as having been 
built by a great tobacconist of Frankfort, out of spite to 
the magistrates of that city, with whom he had quar- 
relled ; and he endeavoured to induce merchants to 
settle here. His plan, however, failed, and this great 
building is almost uninhabited. This village is at pre- 



192 

sent chiefly remarkable for a manufacture of porcelain 
of excellent quality. 

Great preparations were making at Frankfort to ce- 
lebrate the anniversary of the glorious battle of Leipsig; 
and I was present at the inspection of about 6,000 men, 
preparatory to the great review on the eighteenth. 
There were many ladies present, and, although the 
weather was far from being warm, yet few of them 
wore bonnets. In general their hair was rolled round 
their heads. 

Not being able to delay any longer in Frankfort, I 
took the road to Mayencc, and passed through the 
large village of Hochheim, which contain g 300 families. 
It was formerly the property of the chapter of May- 
ence but its future destiny is at present undecided. 
From this piace is derived the English name of Hock, 
which is applied to all the wine of the Rhingau. There 
are vast numbers of vineyards and fruit-trees around 
the village ; and, from a hill above it, is seen the junc- 
tion of the Mayn with the Rhine, in the midst of this 
rich country. The waters of the Mayn are of a dark 
hue, but do not, however, succeed in obscuring altoge- 
ther the colour which the Rhine brings from Switzer- 
land, and which I had so much admired at Schaffhau- 
sen. From the bridge of boats which is 1,400 feet in 
length, and which forms the communication between 
Mayence and Cassel, one sees the Rhine forced by 
mountains to change its northerly direction, and, after 
forming some small islands it runs for some distance 
to the eastward. The mountains, which change the 



193 

course of this vast river, form the Rhingau so celebra- 
ted for its wines. That of the village of Rudeshei)*; 
is particularly noted for producing the best wine of the 
Rhingau, and consequently of Germany. The French 
had expended vast sums on the fortifications of Cassel 
and Mayence, and rendered the latter, one of the keys 
of Germany, as well from its strength as from its situa- 
tion. They had always a great depot here, which 
considerably benefited the city ; the loss of that advan- 
tage is much regretted. 

When seen from the bridge (which is longer than 
that of Westminster) Mayence presents a striking ap- 
pearance on account of its spires, and the vessels that 
line its quay, which presents a scene of considerable 
activity. On the custom-house were displayed the 
flags of Austria, Prussia, and Bavaria; but to which of 
those powers the city is to be subject is still undeter- 
mined. On the river are a great number of corn-mills ^ 
necessary where there is so great a garrison. The 
barracks are handsome, and on a large scale. The 
general appearance of the interior of Mayence is bad. 
The streets are in general narrow, dirty, and intricate. 
Near the castle are some good houses. 

The cathedral is one of the largest buildings in Ger- 
many. It has suffered considerably in the late wars, 
and is now covered with wood. Its appearace is not, 
however, very striking, and it is surrounded with mean 
houses. I observed that a statue, "« V Emfiereur" v* 
still standing in front of one of the houses in this city. 
Its population is said to be 26,000. The inhabitant!.* 

s 



194 

for a considerable distance round Mayence, subsist 
principally by agriculture. They export their grain 
on the Rhine to Switzerland. They have abundance 
of vegetables, and the lower orders live a good deal on 
cabbage, which is here of a large size. 



19; 



CHAP. XVI. 

At Mayence I embarked on the Rhine for Cologne* 
(above 100 English miles distant), to see the banks of 
a river so highly celebrated. Our company in the boat 
was not numerous, and would have been sufficiently 
agreeable, but for the continual political rhapsodies of 
two Frenchmen, one of whom was an officer, and spoke 
with confidence of recovering all the conquests of 
of France. These Frenchmen, in spite of the remon- 
strances of the Germans present, insisted, like the 
physicians in Moliere, that they best knew what was 
for their good, and that they (the Germans) must be 
again united to France. One of these politicians asked 
me, if I did not think that Talleyrand would demand 
the left bank of the Rhine, as essential to France, at the 
congress of Vienna. I answered, I did not think it 
was probable he would ask for countries which France 
had so recently relmouished, nor was it to be expected 
that the allies would, to oblige him, depart from their 
principle of restraining France within those boundaries, 
which had, for centuries, been found as extensive as 
were consistent with the tranquillity of the rest of Eu- 
rope ; and that, for my own part, I could not conceive the 
acquisition of those provinces to be esse?it?al to France, 
which had never been more prosperous than at a pe- 



196 

1 when she formed no pretensions to so great an 
aggrandizement. 

Waving- any further discussions on a subject which - 
vanity of these gentlemen would have extended ad 
infinitum, or, at least, longer than I wished, I left them 
to their own lucubrations, and went on deck to con- 
;i;plate the grandeur of the scenery which surround- 
ed us, and which was reflected in the transparent wa- 
fers of the Rhine. The river hero resembles a suc- 
cession of lakes, and is surrounded in many places by 
such lofty mountains, that I was often at a loss to guess 
gii which side we should find an opening* to continue 
our course. The country along the Rhine is consider- 
ed as one of the richest districts in Europe ; it abounds 
with considerable towns, and with villages which, in 
other countries, would be considered as towns. Al- 
most every eminence is crowned with an ancient castle, 
and there is scarcely a reach of the river which does 
not exhibit some ruin in the boldest situation that can 
be imagined. The houses too being mostly white, 
and covered with blue slates, add considerably to the 
beauty of the scene. 

The Tour dc Souris is situated on an island near the 
Gulfih of Bingerlock, where the river presents a curi- 
ous appearance, being extremely agitated by hidden 
rocks, and the different currents are very violent. We 
dined at Bingen, where the Noh falls into the Rhine. 
The mountains of Niederwald cast a considerable shade 
around, and the mixture of woods and vineyards is 
highly picturesque, but the vines being mostly blight- 



137 

ed, had this year the same autumnal tint as the trees. 
In this country, the vine is almost the only product co. 
the soil, and the inhabitants, who subsist chiefly by itj 
now behold with regret its withered state, and are 
melancholy and inactive, instead of being engaged in 
the pleasing cares of the vintage. 

This is the third year here, as well as in Burgundy 
and other districts, since there has been a favourable 
vintage ; and it is only by mixing some of the vintage 
of 1811, with that of the subsequent years, that the 
inhabitants can dispose of a small portion of this infe- 
rior produce. 

Boppart was the former residence of the electors of 
Treves, but the palace is now failing to decay. Whilst 
contemplating this, mouldering pile, I was struck with 
the well known sounds of our national air, " God save 
the King" which some of the company below sang in 
chorus (being probably tired of the politics of the 
Frenchmen, as much as I was), this air being origin- 
ally German. The evening was fine for the season, 
and about siin-set, several of the distant hills presented 
a fine appearance, having bonfires on their tops, this 
being the 18th of October, which will be long celebra- 
ted in commemoration of the decisive battle of Leipzig. 
Most of the company came on deck to witness the 
effect of the bonfires. The Germans seemed delight- 
ed at the sight which the Frenchmen surveyed in si- 
lence. One of them, however, soon recovering his 
loquacity, asked me if I had been at Paris, which he 

s % 



198 

said was the greatest city in the world, and larger than 
London. 

This I could not assent to, being* contrary to fact. 
Yet it woul:i be difficult for French ingenuity to prove 
what benefits result to a country from an overgrown 
capital. Superiority is, however, all they contend for. 
We soon saw the singular building (in an island) called 
the Palatinate ; it is now used as a public granary, 
and was illuminated in honour of the day, as was also 
the neat village of St. Goar, where we passed the 
night. All seemed to partake of the festivity, and I 
could not discern in the inhabitants any symptoms of 
regret that they were no longer subject to France. 

Having set out at an early hour, we reached Cob- 
lentz to breakfast. It is a large town, containing 12,000 
inhabitants, and is advantageously situated at the con- 
fluence of the Moselle and Rhine. It was garrisoned 
chiefly by the Royal Guards of Saxony, who exceeded 
in appearance any troops I had seen on the continent. 
Some of them are stationed in the ci-devant palace, 
which is situated close to the river. 

The lofty mountain opposite the town is covered 
with the ruins of Jihrenbrtitsttin, which was at one 
time considered as the strongest fortress on the Rhine. 
Opposite the town was a bridge of boats, but it was 
destroyed in tne lasc war, and a flying bridge is sub- 
stituted pro tempore. The Rhine is so rapid near 
Andernach, as never to freeze in the severest winter, 
and it here proceeds longer in a straight course, than I 
had yet seen in any part. Neuwied, although subject 



199 

to inundations, is a large well built and commercial 
town. Lower clown, on the left bank of the river, I 
observed an obelisk, which I found, on inquiry, was 
erected to the French General Marsan, who fell during 
the period of the first invasion of Germany by the 
French republicans. Still farther, and close to the 
river, stands an ancient building, called The Devil's 
House, but, from what circumstance, I could not ex- 
actly discover. Some attribute it to the vast number 
of windows it contains. 

The situation of Lowdersdorf is highly picturesque, 
and the surrounding hills are shaded with woods of 
great antiquity. We here saw several rafts of timber 
of large dimensions, proceeding slowly down the 
stream. At Lintz, the landsturm were mustered to 
fire a volley, as the victory of Leipsig was celebrated 
for two or three days in most parts of Germany. At 
Bonn, I witnessed further rejoicings, and the illumina- 
tions presented a highly pleasing effect when beheld 
from the river. I was at this place invited to a ball 
and su/i/ier, where I remained until a late hour, enjoy- 
ing the general festivity. 

Bonn is a w T ell built city, containing about 14,000 
inhabitants, and was formerly the general residence of 
the electors of Cologne. About a league above the 
city are the seven mountains, and near them is a beau- 
tiful island of considerable extent, in which is a large 
convent. 

Here ends the picturesque scenery of the Rhine, 
which pursues the rest of its course through a flat 



200 

country, until its waters are dispersed amongst the ca- 
nals of Holland. The river is here of great width, 
but not so deep as it is higher up. 

Before Bonn we saw the remains of two merchant 
vessels which had been wrecked there a few days be- 
fore. Those who embark on the Rhine for pleasure, 
should here leave their boats, and pursue the rest of 
their journey by land, as the country ceases to be in- 
teresting, and the navigation is often difficult. 

We set out with a favourable wind ; but about a 
league trom Cologne our boat was driven on the right 
bank of the Rnine by a violent gale ; and as there ap- 
peared no immediate prospect of proceeding by water, 
most of the party determined on walking to the city. 
We found the flying bridge had been damaged by the 
late storm, and were therefore obliged to wait a long 
time for a boat of sufficient size to pass the river, which 
was greatly agitated, and which is here of great depth, 
although much narrower than at Mayence. Few cities 
present a more imposing appearance than Cologne ; 
a vast extent of buildings, a profusion of steeples, and 
a forest of masts, raise the expectations of the traveller. 
Tiie deception cannot be more justly or more empha- 
tically described than in the words of Dr. Johnson : 
" Remotely we see nothing but spires of temples, and 
turrets of palaces, and imagine it the residence of 
splendour, grandeur, and magnificence ; but when we 
have passed the gates, we find it perplexed with nar- 
row passages, disgraced with despicable cottages, em- 
barrassed with obstructions, and clouded with smoke." 



201 

Cologne is one of the largest and most ancient cities 
in Germany ; it was founded by Agrififia, and is above 
three miles in length ; but the population is only be- 
tween 40 and 50,000, which is very inconsiderable for 
its great extent. From the number of its churches, 
which at one time amounted to 300, it has been called 
the Rome of Germany. One of them (the Dome), 
although still unfinished, is one of the grandest efforts 
of architecture, and excites the admiration of all judges 
of that art. The port owes its improvement to Buo- 
naparte, and the quay is lined with ships of considera- 
ble size. 

The city was anciently imperial, and the elector of 
Cologne could not reside more than three days together 
in it without permission of the magistrates ; but those 
who have ever seen this gloomy city, will not, I think, 
consider this restriction as a grievance. 

I here left the Rhine ; it is difficult sufficiently 
to praise the beauties of its banks, which afford also 
ample scope for the researches of the naturalist. They 
are not, however, adorned with that number of country 
seats which enliven many of our rivers, and a few con- 
vents and palaces only are to be seen ; although villa- 
ges and towns are very numerous. I must not omit 
to mention, that I visited the house in which Rubens 
was born ; his name is given to the street, which, like 
most others at Cologne, has little beauty. He had 
furnished many of the churches of his native city with 
paintings, but several of them have been removed to 
Paris. He has been cailed the Jjax of painter 8 , and 



202 

his great excellence appears in the grandeur of his 
compositions ; the art of colouring was by him carried 
to the highest pitch. Rubens, however great his skill, 
deserves the praise of ' modesty , as, although he is allow- 
ed to have been little inferior to Titian in landscape, 
he employed Widens and Van-uden when landscapes 
were introduced into his paintings, and Snyders for 
animals, who finished them from his designs. 

The country around Cologne is well cultivated, but 
is unenclosed up to the walls of the city, and there are 
none of those eiegant villas to be seen which distin- 
guish the neighbourhood of Frankfort ; but it is im- 
possible for any two places to be more completely the 
reverse of each other in every respect. 

My next stage was Juliers, the ancient capital of the 
duchy of the same name ; it is a small city, but is well 
fortified, and its citadel is said to be of uncommon 
strength. As we approached Aix-la-Chapelle the 
roads became very indifferent, the soil being a deep 
sand ; they are, however, in many places paved in the 
centre. 

Aix-la-Chapelle is a large, and, in general, a well- 
built city. The windows, in most of the houses, are 
very large, and give it a peculiar appearance. It was 
called by the Romans A^uisgranum, or Urbes Aguensis. 
It has for ages been celebrated for its waters, which 
resemble those of Bath ; but some of the springs are 
still hotter. There are five springs which attract eve- 
ry year much company; b^t the season had ended be- 
fore my arrival. This city was chosen by Charlemagne 



203 

as the place of his residence, on account of the p lea- 
santness of its situation ; and, until its incorporation 
with France, held the first rank among the imperial 
cities of Germany. According to the Golden Bull the 
emperors were to be crowned here ; but Charles V. 
was the last who conformed to that regulation. 

The ancient walls of Aix enclose a vast extent of 
ground, and afford a pleasant walk ; but there is much 
of the space enclosed in fields and gardens, and the 
population is not proportioned to the remaining build- 
ings, being no more than 30,000. The surrounding 
country is highly picturesque and varied, cultivation 
and woods being interspersed. The woods in this 
country have been, however, much diminished of late 
years. But there are, it may be observed, coal mines 
to supply sufficient fuel for the inhabitants. 

The town or great village of Burscheid adjoins the 
gates of Aix ; it is very flourishing. Near it is a fine 
abbey. I was also pleased with the ruins of the castle 
of Frankenberg. Here is a manufactory of needles, 
and about Aix are several of cloth. 

From the Tower of Sittard is a view of vast extent 
over the Netherlands. The cathedral of Aix is a large 
Gothic stiucture, but many of its decorations are tri- 
fling, and inconsistent with the solidity of its massy 
columns of marble and granite. Its doors are of bronze 
highly wrought, but full of fissures. 

The streets here are crowded with beggars ; and I 
think I never was in a place where so little respect 
is paid to the observance of Sunday. In most towns 



204 

on the continent the theatres, Sec. are open, but most 
of the shops are closed during some part of the day ; 
here they were open during the whole day, and seem- 
ed equally busy as during the rest of the week. 

The country between Aix and Liege produces 
great quantities of hops (the vine of the north of Eu- 
rope) and the beer here is very good. Clermont is a 
neat village, with several good houses. 

We passed over some mountains, which seem to be 
the limit of the German language ; the inhabitants of 
them speak a dialect intelligible neither at Liege nor 
Aix. 

The country near Liege is rich, and the city is situ- 
ated in a beautiful valley on the Meuse; it is extreme- 
ly large, but is ill built, and the streets are more 
intricate and dirty even than those of Cologne. There 
is a good deal of trade carried on here, and the popula- 
tion is estimated at not less than 50,000. There are a 
great number of churches, but I was not much struck 
with any of them ; that of the Dominicans is said to be 
copied from St. Peter's at Rome. There are a great 
number of booksellers here, and I was told it was a 
famous place to procure cheap books. The coal here 
seems of a good quality, and the place is surrounded 
with collieries. The lower orders in this city speak a 
jargon called Walloon, which is completely unintelli- 
gible to the higher classes. 

The French customs are generally prevalent here ; 
and it is said, the inhabitants regret their separation 
from France. There were vast manufactories of cut- 



203 

lery here, bat the French, before their departure, de 
stroyed most of the machinery ; this, together with 
the failure of other trades, is said to produce the dis- 
tress which fills the streets with beggars. 

The general a/i/iearance of the inhabitants of Liege 
is not more prepossessing to a stranger than that of 
their city. There are said to be a great number of 
thieves, and 1 saw some surprised whilst cutting the 
trunks from behind a carriage at the inn-door. The 
money here is extremely adulterated, and is not taken 
one stage from the city, a circumstance which fre- 
quently is attended with great loss to the traveller, if 
he has occasion to receive much change. 

In this neighbourhood are several vineyards, but the 
climate is too cold to admit of the wine having a good 
flavour. They here cultivate a species of cabbage, the 
seed of which produces a thick oil, which is used in 
dying stuffs, and forms part of the composition of the 
black soap of this country. 

I found that the season had long ended at Spa ; that 
the roads were bad, and that it was above thirty miles 
out of my way, and therefore determined on proceeding 
to Brussels in the diligence, to make trial of one of 
the public carriages of this country, having found the 
posting good from Cologne to Liege, I found it ex- 
tremely spacious, when compared to those in England, 
and it was lined with faded yellow damask. I had but 
two companions, who according to Rousseau's Axiom, 
would not be entitled to the name of men, which, he 
says belongs to none under Jive feet six inches. 

T 



206 

They proved, however, sufficiently agreeable com- 
panions, and I found they resided at Louvain. We 
proceeded at the rate of rather more than four English 
miles an hour, which was quicker than I had before 
travelled in a public carriage on the Continent. Our 
first stage presented nothing remarkable ; but the next, 
St. Tron, was a remarkably neat little town. There 
is a spacious square surrounded with good houses, and 
at one end is the town-house ; the church is a large 
building, and its steeple contains a set of musical 
chimes, to which the people of this country are very 
partial. 

We next reached Tirlemont^ formerly one of the 
most considerable cities of Brabant, which is at pre- 
sent by no means of equal importance. The surround- 
ing country is fruitful ; many of its villages contain 
cottages of clay, which I did not expect to see in so 
opulent a province ; they are indeed spacious, and the 
interior is kept very neat. The general appearance 
of the people here is much more in their favour than 
at Liege. 

Tirlemont contains manufactures of flannels, stock- 
ings, and cloth. The cotton trade^ formerly the great 
staple of the Netherlands, has of late years been great - 
Iv on the decline. 



207 



CHAP. XVII. 

Although the present population of the Nether- 
lands bears no proportion to that which it formerly 
maintained, yet it is still very considerable, and ex- 
ceeds that of any country in Europe, Holland only 
excepted ; being 252 persons to each square mile (see 
ch. xi. for the population of Switzerland, &c.) The 
decrease in the number of inhabitants in these provin- 
ces is chiefly to be attributed to the religious persecu- 
tions which compelled thousands of industrious fami- 
lies to emigrate. 

This depopulation is very perceptible in many of the 
cities I passed through, which are capable of contain- 
ing double their present number of inhabitants, and is 
no where more striking than at Lou vain, where the 
present population does not exceed 25,000, and where 
formerly there were 4000 manufactories of cloth, which 
supported 15,000 labourers. This city is surrounded 
with an ancient wall of brick, which, as well as its nu- 
merous towers, presents a half ruined appearance.-— < 
Many of the public buildings of Louvain indicate its 
former opulence. The town-house is considered as a 
model of GothiG architecture, and the cathedral of St. 
Peter is a stately building. The portal of the Colle- 
gium Falconis presents a specimen of Grecian w 



208 

lecture, which is much admired for its simplicity. 
The University of Louvain was formerly of great 
celebrity, and no person could exercise any public 
authority in the Austrian Netherlands, without having 
graduated here. This regulation, however beneficially 
intended, only produced the effect of raising extreme- 
ly the expence of the different diplomas, without being 
attended with any advantage, except to the funds of 
the university. In the present unsettled state of the 
Netherlands, it cannot be expected that the seats of 
learning should be as much frequented, as they proba- 
bly will be when their new sovereign shall have had 
leisure to turn his attention to the important subject of 
-public education ; and the wisdom of the regulations 
he has promulgated, on other matters of general in- 
terest (particularly that which enforces the more 
solemn observation of Sunday) leaves little room to 
doubt that this point will, in its turn, be duly and suc- 
cessfully attended to. Those who have resided at 
Louvain have observed, that its inhabitants are in gene- 
ral more polite than in most of the towns in these pro- 
vinces ; but my stay was not sufficiently long to enable 
me to form any opinion on the subject. The manners 
©f the people do not seem to me very dissimilar from 
those of the French, but others think they most resem- 
ble the Dutch. In fact, the Net her landers have no 
very fiecidiar characteristics, but partake, in many re- 
spects, of those which distinguish the various nations 
from whom they are descended. They have been 
much and often abused by various writers, who have 



2t)3 

attributed to them all the faults of almost ail the na- 
tions of Europe, without allowing that they possess any 
of the good qualities by which those faults are pallia- 
ted in the other nations. Those, however, who are of 
a candid disposition will not feel inclined to assent to 
the truth of statements so evidently dictated by enmity 
or spieen. But whilst I would not have the Flemish 
considered as a compound of all that is exceptionable 
in the human character, I do not consider them as 
meriting any particular firaise ; nor can I vindicate 
them from the charge of dishonesty, which has been 
so often alleged against them. In general on the con- 
tinent, where the English are the subjects of extortion, 
the fraud is considered as trivial, and the French often 
boast in conversation how John Bull is pillaged at 
Paris. But whatever may be the Flemish character^ 
it is allowed by all that they follow the French cus- 
toms in their domestic arrangement, but are in general 
more cleanly. Their kitchens are kept very neat, and 
their cooking apparatus is ranged in order round the 
stove, which, in many of the kitchens that I saw in the 
small inns, projects considerably into the room. 

Many of the inhabitants of these provinces (like my 
two companions in the Louvain Diligence) are below 
the middle size ; they are extremely intelligent and 
active, and in general civil to strangers. Before I quit 
Louvain, I must not omit to notice that it is famous for 
its beer, which is certainly the best I have tasted on 
the continent. The number of breweries is said to 
exceed twenty? and the consumption is astonishingly 

2 T 



210 

great in the neighbourhood, besides a considerable ex- 
port trade. 

I continued my journey to Brussels along an excel- 
lent road, the centre of which was paved, as from the 
nature of the soil it would be otherwise impassable in 
winter. The roads in this country run for many miles 
together in a straight line between rows of trees ; and 
I must confess I thought it very uninteresting to travel 
through. The flatness of its surface is but rarely in-' 
terrupted by any eminence, which affords a prospect 
calculated to make any impression on the mind. There 
are many neat villages, and occasionally one sees coun- 
try seats decorated in that formal style of gardening, 
which was originally introduced from this country into 
England, but which has there long since yielded to a 
more natural taste. The farming seems very neatly 
managed ; the numerous canals, although they add 
nothing to the beauty of the country, are of great utility 
to the farmer ; and travelling is very cheap in the boats, 
which pass between the chief towns. 

It would require scenery like that of the Rhine, to 
induce me to adopt this conveyance ; but many of these 
canals pass between banks which exclude all view of 
the surrounding country. I found the Netherlander 
generally impatient to be relieved from the great mili- 
tary expences incident to their present situation. There 
is, I think, little reason to doubt, that when some of the 
existing taxes can be removed, the Orange family will 
become popular. The stamp duties are very heavy ; 
there are land and house taxes, and a personal tax. It 



211 

is to be expected, that the people should wish for a 
diminution of their burdens, but Liege is the only place 
I have visited in the countries lately relinquished by 
France, where the separation seems to be generally 
regretted. I found that the Prussian government was 
by no means popular on the left bank of the Rhine, and 
that an union with either Austria or Bavaria, was much 
wished for in those provinces, whose future destiny 
remains to be decided at the Congress of Vienna. 

Having met with but few English travellers since I 
had quitted Switzerland, I was much struck on enter- 
ing Brussels with the vast numbers of my fellow sub- 
jects, moving in all directions. The garrison was al- 
most entirely composed of English troops, so that I felt 
here quite at home. I found that there was an Eng- 
lish theatre, as well as a French one, and that balls, 
and entertainments of all descriptions, a V Anglaise^ 
were in abundance. Indeed, the upper part of the city 
differed little in appearance from an English watering 
place. 

Brussels is a city of great extent, built partly on the 
river Senne (naturally a very inconsiderable stream, 
but which, being formed here into a canal, becomes of 
much advantage), and partly on a hill, commanding an 
extensive view of the rich and fertile plain by which it 
is surrounded, much of which resembles a vast kitchen 
garden. It is, like Louvain, surrounded by a ruined 
wall of brick, as formerly all the towns of Flanders 
were fortified. This was the capital of the Austrian 



212 

Netherlands, and lately the chief place of the French 
department of the Dyle ; it will, probably, now be- 
come, for a part of the year, the residence of its new 
sovereign, whose sons are at present amongst its in- 
habitants. The inhabitants of Brussels are calculated 
at 70,000, and its environs give the traveller an idea of 
its importance, as they have an appearance of much 
traffic, and are decorated with many villas which an- 
nounce the opulence, but not always the good taste of 
their owners. The city is, in general, irregularly 
built, and the lower part does not deserve commenda- 
tion ; but the place royale is fine : the park is sur- 
rounded by many handsome public buildings, and by 
a number of private houses, which wouid ornament any 
capital in Europe. Tne park is of considerable ex- 
tent, and forms an agreeable promenade. Its avenues 
are kept in excellent order ; they abound with statues 
and other formal decorations, winch are, however, 
more admissible in a city promenade than in the re- 
tirement of the country. A fountain here was cele- 
brated by Peter the Great's having fallen into it, as 
that monarch, like Cato, was said, 

" Saepe mero caluisse virtus." 
" His virtue oft with wine to warm." 

The circumstance was recorded by the following 
inscription : 



213 

iv Petrus Alexowilz, Czar Moscovia?, magnus dux, margini 
hujus fontis insidiens, illius aquam nvobilitavlt libato vino 
hora post meridiam tenia, die 16 Aprilis, in?'." 

" That renowned General P. A., Czar of Moscovy, having pour- 
ed forth ample libations of wine, whilst sitting on the brink 
of this fountain, fell into, and ennobled its waters, about 
three o'clock in the afternoon of the 16th of April, 17 17." 

The town-house is one of the most conspicuous of 
the public buildings at Brussels, although it is situated 
in the lowest part of the town, its steeple rising to the 
height of 364 feet; it is a very fine piece of Gothic 
architecture. The equestrian statue, noticed by M. 
Dutens, as being placed on the toji of a house in the 
square before the town-house, has disappeared ; the 
horse and his rider having been removed to a more 
suitable situation. The church of St. Gudule presents 
a venerable and interesting appearance ; it contains 
several fine paintings, and windows of stained glass. 
There are many ancient tombs of the old Dukes of 
Brabant. The church of St. James is also worthy of 
notice, and its facade of the Corinthian order, is an ele- 
gant and uniform piece of architecture, which does 
honour to the taste of the builder. 

Brussels contains many fine collections of paintings, 
which I have not time to enumerate ; but I was much 
pleased with some pictures of 1ST. Danoots, to whom I 
had a letter. They are not very numerous, but are 
undoubted originals of S. Rosa, Teniers, Rembrandt, 
Myt€7i8 r and of J. Bassano, who is remarkable for 



214 

having attained a greater age (82) than most of the 
great painters ; he has accordingly left behind him a 
greater number of pictures than almost any other mas- 
ter. He is said to have expressed great regret on his 
death-bed, that he should be obliged to quit the world 
at the moment when he had begun to make some little 
progress in his art. A shorter life than Bassano's, is, 
however, sufficient to establish the reputation of an 
artist. Raphael died in his 37th year, but public opin- 
ion has placed him at the head of his art for general 
firojiciencij . 

There are several excellent hotels in Brussels which 
command a view of the park. I was at one of these, 
the Hotel de Bellevue, and found the hour of the table 
d'hote had been changed to accommodate the English, 
to four o'clock, at least two hours later than the usual 
time ; but as the company consisted always entirely 
of English it was but reasonable they should fix the 
hour. The dinner here more resembled an English 
one, than any I had hitherto seen on the Continent, and 
reminded me of the public tables at Cheltenham. 

Brussels was some months since a very cheafi resi- 
dence, but I have been assured, that the prices of most 
articles have more than doubled since our troops first 
arrived here. Living at an hotel here is nearly as ex- 
pensive as in London ; but no doubt there is a consi- 
derable saving in the expenses of a family who are 
recommended to honest trades-people. There are 
still a number of r^ood houses to be let, notwithstanding- 
the great influx of English, many of whom have enga- 



215 

ged houses for four or five years, on terms which seem 
very reasonable to those accustomed to the London 
firices. 

The country round Brussels presents several excur- 
sions which would probably have better answered my 
expectations had the weather been more favourable. 
The Abbey of Jurourin, was a country seat of the 
princes of the Austrian family, and was formerly fa- 
mous for its menagerie. The forest of Sogne is of 
great extent ; and its numerous avenues, which now had 
a sombre appearance, are, no doubt, in summer, much 
frequented by the inhabitants of Brussels. This forest 
was the property of the Emperor of Germany, and is 
said to have produced an annual revenue of one mil- 
lion of florins. 

The prison, or house of correction, at Vilv orde, is 
worthy of attention, from the excellent manner in which 
it is conducted. Those who wish for the introduction 
of some improvements into our workhouses, might 
surely derive many useful hints from the manner in 
which similar establishments are conducted abroad ; 
and although I have never thought much on the subject, 
yet I did not fail to remark the cleanliness, regularity, 
and industry, which prevailed here and in another place 
of the same kind near Berne. 

Brussels is seen to great advantage from the ancient 
ramparts which surround it. I went entirely round the 
city in about two hours, and afterwards attended di- 
vine service, which was performed in English, to a 
congregation which proved the great number of En- 



216 



glish now here. There are at present but few very 
strongly fortified cities in Belgium, compared with the 
vast number which it formerly contained. The period 
is past, when, after the ablest engineers had exerted 
their utmost skill in the construction of fortifications 
around its cities, generals not less distinguished, con- 
tended for the honour of reducing them. Amongst 
numberless other instances, the siege of Ostend suffi- 
ciently attests how successful the engineers have been 
in rendering those places strong ; and also bears am- 
ple testimony to the perseverance of the commanders 
who at last succeed in taking them. Ambrose Spino- 
la entered Ostend in 1604, after a siege of above three 
years, during which the besieged lost 50,000 and the 
besiegers 80,000 men. The siege and capture of 
Valenciennes might also be adduced, if testimony 
were wanting of the zeal and bravery of British armies 
and commanders. But however justly these sieges are 
celebrated in modem times, the antiquarian who con- 
tends for the supremacy of past ages over the present, 
will not fail to instance the siege of Troy and tlie ex- 
ploits of Achilles and Agamemnon, as a more distin- 
guished instance of perseverance than any to be met 
with in these degenerate days, and if he should meet 
with some sceptic who insists that the heroes of Homer 
owe their existence only to the imagination of the 
poet, although he can assent to no such hypothesis, yet 
he will also instance the siege of Azotus, on the fron- 
tiers of Egypt, which Psammeticus, meditating exten- 
sive conquests, and thinking it beneath him to leave so 



2 If 

strong a fortress unsubdued, is related to have speiv, 
29 years of his reign in reducing. 

As I was desirous of visiting Antwerp and Ghent, 
and as the period allotted for my tour was drawing to a 
close (a circumstance which the advanced season of 
the year gave me bat little reason to regret) I left 
Brussels, enveloped in a fog, which might remind the 
English fashionables of those so prevalent in London 
during the gloomy season of November, and proceed- 
ed to Malines, 14 miles distant, formerly one of the 
greatest cities in Belgium, but now like too many other 
once celebrated places in that country, affording a me- 
lancholy contrast to its former splendour, and proving 
that in the vicissitude of all sublunary affairs, cities, as 
well as their inhabitants, are subject to decay. 

Non indignemur mortalia corpora solvi. 
Cernimus exemplis oppida posse mori. 

Here are several manufactories of excellent lace, 
and many breweries, but the beer is considered as 
greatly inferior to that of Louvain. The houses are 
spacious, and exhibit singular specimens of ancient 
taste ; the roofs rise to a great height, and terminate 
in a sharp point. Their walls are generally of an ex- 
cessive whiteness. The tower of the cathedral is 
highly finished, and rises to a vast height. There 
being little to detain me here, Malines being more re- 
markable for what it once was, than for what it now is, 
I continued my way to Antwerp along an excellent: 

TJ 



218 

paved road, lined by avenues of trees, which are often 
so cut (the Dutch differing from the Minorquins, who 
never prune a tree, saying, that nature knows best how 
it should grow) as not to be at all ornamental, and in 
some places cannot be said to afford either " from 
storms a shelter, or from heat a shade." In that state, 
however unnatural, they answer the intention of their 
planters, by marking the course of the road in the 
snowy season, without excluding the air from it in the 
wet weather, prevalent in autumn. 

Antwerp is one of the most celebrated cities of Eu- 
rope, and although its present situation is far from 
comparable with its former celebrity, yet it has revi- 
ved greatly of late years ; and the events which have 
restored to these provinces their independence, will, 
no doubt, fill with the vessels of all trading nations 
those docks, which were constructed by the French 
government at such incredible expence, and with far 
different views than the encouragement of commercial 
speculations. The canals by which these docks com- 
municate with Bruges and Ostend, that the navy of 
Napoleon might run no risks by passing on the high 
seas, are vast works, which must have cost enormous 
sums of money. The Scheld is here about half the 
width of the Thames at Westminster ; but Antwerp is 
above fifty miles from its mouth. Its depth is very 
considerable ; and such was at one period the com- 
merce of Antwerp, that not less than 2500 vessels an- 
nually entered its port. The present population of 
this city is stated at 60,000. There are manufactures 



219 

of lace, silk, chocolate, and extensive establishments 
for refining sugar. The export of the productions of 
the fruitful district which surrounds the city is very 
considerable. Nothing proves more strongly the riches 
of these ftrovinces y than the short period in which they 
recover the evils of a campaign ; and it was their fer- 
tility in grain, which principally rendered them of such 
importance to the French government. During the 
late scarcity in France, the crops succeeded tolerably 
well here ; and Buonaparte obliged the inhabitants of 
Belgium to supply France at a price which he fixed 
himself, and by which they lost considerably. 

There are many buildings at Antwerp, which are 
justly admired for their magnificence, particularly the 
cathedral, which, like many other churches here, was 
decorated by the pencil of Rubens. The tower of the 
cathedral is a rich specimen of Gothic. The general 
effect of this building is lessened by a number of mean 
houses which surround it. The church of St. Andre 
contains a monument to the memory of Mary Queen 
of Scotland. The town-house is a large building ; its 
facade is 250 feet in length, and is composed of all the 
orders of architecture. Many of the streets at Ant- 
werp are tolerably well built. I was informed that 
many individuals have good collections of paintings, by 
the chief painters which this country has produced. It 
is impossible to pass through Flanders without being 
struck with the exactness with which its painters have 
represented the face of their country, and the persons 
of its inhabitants. Antwerp, on the whole has a tole- 



220 

rainy cheerful appearance. The promenade of Peni- 
piere is pleasant, and much frequented by the citizens. 
The country between Antwerp and Gand, presents, 
like the rest of Flanders, a level surface, highly culti- 
vated, traversed by excellent roads, running in straight 
lines from one town to another. I must, however, own 
that I have seldom traversed a more uninteresting 
country. But as the reign of a prince, which affords 
the fewest incidents for the commemoration of the his- 
torian, is thought to be often the most fortunate for the 
interests of his subjects, so a country, which is passed 
over in silence by the tourist, as devoid of those natural 
beauties, which fix his attention, often contains the most 
land susceptible of cultivation, which best repays the 
labours of the husbandman, and is the most valuable to 
the possessor. Many of the Flemish inns are very 
neat ; but the traveller who has recently quitted Ger- 
many, is struck with their inferiority in point of deco- 
ration (although, perhaps, in no other respect) to those 
of that country, which abound with gilding, trophies, 
and armorial bearings, to invite the stranger, who here 
has a less shewy intimation of the entertainment he 
seeks for. The peasants here commonly wear wooden 
shoes ; and they who do not consider how powerful is 
the force of custom, are surprised how they contrive 
to walk so well, in such aukward and clumsy ma- 
chines. 



2'2i 



CHAP. XVIII. 

Gand, or Ghent, is the capital of Flanders, and is 
one of the greatest cities in Europe as to extent ; it is 
seven miles in circumference. It is situated on the 
Scheldt and Lys, which are here joined by two smaller 
rivers, which with numerous canals intersect the city, 
and form upwards of twenty islands, that are united by 
above 100 bridges. No position can be conceived 
more favourable for trade than this. But Gand is 
greatly fallen from the once splendid situation she held 
amongst the cities ot Europe, and although superior 
to either Brussels or Antwerp in point of appearance, 
its population is now inferior to those cities, being re- 
duced to 58,000 : a very inconsiderable number for a 
city of such extent. Gand is celebrated as the birth- 
place of the emperor Charles the Fifth. It exhibited 
at different periods proofs of his attachment to a piace 
of which he boasted being a citizen, and of the severity 
%vith which he punished the revolt of its inhabitants. 
In more ancient times Gand produced another charac- 
ter of political importance, d\4rtcville, a brewer, whose 
influence in this city (then one of the first in Europe) 
made King Edward the Third of England solicitous 
for his friendship ; and history informs us that one af 

u 2 



222 

his sons, at the head of 60,000 Gantois, carried on a 
war against his sovereign. 

Here was concluded the celebrated treaty in 1516, 
called the Pacification of Gand ; and it may in future 
times be famous for the conclusion of a treaty between 
England and America. 

Charles the Fifth comparing the extent of Paris 
with that of this city, is said to have remarked, " gu'il 
auroit mis tout Paris dans Gand ;" and, except Paris, 
and perhaps Cologne, it is the largest city I have seen 
on the Continent. Many of the canals have some ap- 
pearance of trade. I observed many very extensive 
bleach-greens beyond the ancient ditches and works 
which surround the city. The walls along the canal 
of la Coussure are the most frequented by the inhabi- 
tants. 

. The cathedral is a handsome structure, and contains 
some beautiful carving. The church of St. Michael 
is also a noble and venerable edifice. There are many 
other handsome churches amongst the number which 
the city contains, and I do not recollect ever to have 
been in a place where there are such a number and 
x'ariety of chimes. 

The town-house is an extremely large and hand- 
some building, in the ancient taste, as indeed are most 
of those in the Netherlands. The city contains many 
elegant private houses. The streets are remarkably 
clean and spacious, but the want of an adequate popu- 
lation is very perceptible. Here is a good public 
library, and the Botanic Garden is considered as the 



225 

best in the Netherlands. The prison built by the Em- 
press Maria Teresa is well worthy of a visit ; and the 
stranger cannot fail of being* struck with the extreme 
activity and industry which prevails within its walls. 
Every thing seems conducted much in the same man- 
ner, of which I had occasion to notice the advantages 
at Vilvorde. There is a theatre , but those who have 
lately arrived from Brussels or Lisle will not be much 
struck with the merits of the performers. From Gand 
to Ostend and Dunkirk there are no public conveyan- 
ces, except along the canals. This mode of travelling 
I was not inclined to adopt ; and hearing that the road 
by Lisle, although thirty miles longer, passed through 
a finer country, I determined to proceed that way. I 
did not hear a favourable account of Ostend ; and, not- 
withstanding the peace, above a third of the houses 
were said to be untenanted. Bruges has neither river 
nor fountain, but abundance of stagnant canals and 
reservoirs. The word Bourse, as designating the 
place where merchants assemble to transact business, 
had its first origin from a house at Bruges, then be- 
longing to the family of Van der Bourse, opposite to 
which the merchants of the city used to meet daily. 

As the road between Ghent and Lisle did not claim 
any minute survey, and as I had been satisfied with the 
trial I had before made of a diligence in their country, 
I engaged a place for Lille for the next morning. 

I was awakened, long before day-break, by the noise 
of packing in the carriages in the yard, and by the vo- 
ciferations of several Frenchmen in the house, who 



224 

seemed to exert their lungs more than the occasion 
required. I was not sorry to see them set off in a dif- 
ferent carriage from that in which I was to proceed, as 
their extreme noise would have been tiresome. I had 
not to complain that my companions made an unneces- 
sary defense de parole. They were, I believe, all 
Flemish. One of them prided himself on being able 
to speak a little English, which he said he could read 
perfectly, and pulled from his pocket " The Vicar of 
Wakefield," which, he assured me, he admired ex- 
tremely. I have, on many occasions, in Germany, 
been in company with persons who were more desirous 
of beginning a conversation in English, than able after- 
wards to continue it ; but in general I have found that 
the English make less allowance for the want of pro- 
ficiency of foreigners in their language than foreigners 
do for our ignorance of theirs. On one occasion, at a 
table d'hote, a person who sat near me pointed out a 
gentleman at some distance, and observed that it would 
be impossible to please him more than by giving him 
an opportunity of speaking English, as he valued him- 
self much on his knowledge of that language. He was 
not long without finding the opportunity he sought for, 
but not the approbation which he had probably ex- 
pected. 

But to return to the diligence. The rest of the pas- 
sengers being lethargic after dinner, an elderly lady 
and I had the conversation to ourselves. She com- 
plained frequently of her poor bonnet, which, from its 
extraordinary elevation, (having to all appearance an- 



225 

tiquity to boast of) was frequently forced in contact 
•with the top of the carriage by the roughness of the 
pavement. I told her, I had heard that the bonnets at 
Paris had been much reduced in point of height, and 
that perhaps something between the French and Eng- 
lish fashions would in time be generally worn. But 
although she had to complain of the inconvenience 
arising from the unnecessarily large dimensions of her 
head-dress, she expressed a hope that no such reduc- 
tion might take place, as the English bonnets were in 
her opinion so extremely unbecoming, that she should 
much regret any bias in the French ladies towards 
such an innovation. 

The pavement on which we travelled was rendered 
very necessary by the weight of the carriages, which 
would soon make the road impassable. The country 
resembled the rest of Flanders. I observed a greater 
number of sportsmen than I had yet seen, well provi- 
ded with dogs, ranging a country which is too thickly 
inhabited to abound in game ; and I have seidom seen 
a district wnere tliere are fewer birds of any kind. 
Courtray is a large and handsome town. Here I ob- 
served some large dogs employed in drawing small 
carts, a custom very general in Holland. The town- 
house bears an inscription, indicating that it was 
erected by the senate and people of C our tray ; a style 
lately used by all the cities of Germany whicu depend- 
ed on the empire, however inconsiderable they had 
become in the course of years. There are many beg- 
gars here, although the town and neighbourhood exhi- 



226 

bits more industry than I had observed since I left 
Antwerp. 

At Courtray and Menin the garrisons are English, 
and a little beyond the last named place we entered 
France. The boundary stone was pointed out to me as 
curious, from having escaped unnoticed during the 
revolutionary times, as it bears the royal arms of 
France on one side and those of Austria on the other, 
and after a series of eventful years, it serves again to 
point out the ancient and legitimate limits of France. 
We were detained above an hour at the custom-house, 
as the diligence was heavily laden, and all merchan- 
dize, as well as the baggage of the passengers, was 
examined with minute attention. 

The tax was however only on the patience, the 
purse not being diminished by any claim from the offi- 
cers, who were extremely civil in assisting to arrange 
what their search had convinced them not to be illegal. 
Our passports were not demanded until we reached 
the out-posts of Lille, and we were not long detained, 
as every thing was satisfactory. I was told that a few 
days before, two English travellers not being provided 
with sufficient passports, were taken out of the dili- 
gence, and conveyed under an escort into Lille, where 
they were next day recommended to return to Eng- 
land, and provide themselves with proper passports. 

Lille is the capital of French Flanders, and the chief 
place in the department du JSTord ; it is one of the hand- 
somest and best built cities of France, as well as the 
stron gest fortified. The citadel especially, is consider- 



22? 

ed as the chefd'ceuvre of the celebrated Vauban, this 
place having been one of the most important fortresses 
on this side of France ; it has again become so, although 
far removed from that line which a _ t%» satiable ambition 
would have established as the boundary of France ; and 
which included nations not desirous of the union. The 
population of Lille is estimated at 61,500. It contains 
many manufactories, which a period of tranquillity will 
probably restore to their ancient prosperity. Many of 
the streets here reminded me of Paris. The cathedral 
is a handsome building, as are also the exchange, the 
theatre, and the porte royale. The barracks are large 
and spacious ; and there being generally a large gar- 
rison, the theatre is well attended, and the performers 
superior to those in most provincial towns. I was told 
by a gentleman who has resided here for some time, 
that there are few towns in France which exceed this 
in point of agreeable society. He had two letters of 
introduction on his arrival, and found no difficulty in 
enlarging the circle of his acquaintance. He added, 
that many English had settled here for the sake of 
economy ; and it certainly is cheaper than most of the 
great towns of Belgium. 

I had much reason to be satisfied that I took this 
road to Calais, instead of going by the canals, as the 
country was much diversified, and the view from Cassel 
was one. of the most striking and extensive that I had 
ever seen. Notwithstanding that the month of No- 
vember is not calculated for seeing a country to advan- 
tage, some of the richest and best cultivated provinces 



228 

of France and Flanders are discovered from this com- 
manding- situation. The scene is bounded on one side 
by the sea, and on the other by the mountains of Hai- 
nauit. Those who are acquainted with tiie country- 
assert that from Cassei you can see thirty towns or 
considerable villages, of which seventeen are fortified. 
Cassei itself is by no means remarkable ; it was at one 
time a place of great strength, but its fortifications 
have gone to decay, although its situation must always 
render it a strong position. After a considerable de- 
scent on leaving Cassei, we arrived in the plain, which 
extends to the coast, with but little variation. It is 
fertile in corn and produces hops. There are several 
rich pastures and a tolerable proportion of wood. Tins 
day we travelled entirely in the department du Nord, 
where the roads are much attended to. I observed 
a few country houses, and a chateau of General Van- 
damme. 

Berg is a considerable town, but badly situated ; the 
country from thence to Dunkirk is a flat and marshy 
plain, resembling those extensive tracts which occupy 
a large proportion of the counties of Cambridge and 
Lincoln. It abounds with canals and drains, which in 
some places are higher than the fields, but this unin- 
teresting district feeds large herds of cattle, and is in 
many parts well cultivated. One of the chief canals 
leading to Dunkirk runs parallel with the road for a 
great distance, its banks are planted with trees, which 
have a stunted appearance, owing probably to their 
proximity to the sea. I observed on the canal several 



229 

boats laden with the produce of the country, as well as 
the stage boats. Dunkirk is well built, and the streets 
being spacious it makes a favourable impression on 
the mind of the traveller, who is perhaps more liable 
to the force of a first impression than most others. 
Some of the churches and public buildings are hand- 
some, and the number of inhabitants is estimated at 
22,000. Its name is said to originate from a church 
built here by the Duns in 646, and in Flemish its name 
signifies the church of the Duns. There is much 
similarity between many words in the English and 
Flemish, but the latter cannot claim the praise of 
agreeableness. 

It is endeavoured by a proclamation of the Prince 
Sovereign to restore the Flemish language in all pub- 
lic acts and pleadings at law, to the exclusion of the 
French, which during the union of Belgium with 
France, was alone allowed to be used, and pains were 
taken that in all schools the French language only 
should be taught. But it is a difficult task, to over- 
come the partiality of a people for their ancient dialect, 
and the Flemish language is still used by the lower 
classes even in those parts of Flanders which have 
been united for above a century to France. At this 
day the difference between the two nations is not alto- 
gether done away. 

The scheme of again uniting Belgium and the left 
bank of the Rhine to France, is here perpetually intro- 
duced. The French talk of the oppressed state of the 
Belgians, and of the vast number of ordinary, extraor- 

w 



230 

dinary, and indirect imposts to which they are subject, 
and conclude that they must wish to become again the 
subjects of France, as if they would by that means 
escape taxation. That they would rather be subject 
to the mild government of Louis XVIII. than to the 
oppressive tyranny of Buonaparte, I can easily con- 
ceive ; but is it unnatural that they should be desirous 
of existing as an independent nation, under a govern- 
ment of their own ? Yet were it ascertained beyond 
dispute, that the wishes of the Belgians are such as the 
French represent them, surely the general interests of 
Europe, and the preservation of that balance of power 
so essential to its permanent tranquillity, would forbid 
the further extension of France, which might again 
reassume that preponderance which it has cost the 
other powers so much to reduce. I am, however, in- 
clined to think, that the wishes of the Belgians are not 
such as they are represented ; but the French knowing 
a little, presume a good deal, and so jump to a con- 
clusion. 

The merchants here seem to expect that their city 
will obtain the privileges of a free port, which have 
been lately granted to Marseilles, but upon what 
grounds their hopes are founded, I did not distinctly 
understand. 

Dunkirk was at one period subject to England; be- 
ing taken in 1658, it continued an English garrison 
until sold by that needy monarch Charles the Second, 
to Louis the Fourteenth, in 1662. The odium of this 
transaction was one of the causes of the disgrace of that 



231 

great statesman, Lord Clarendon, and a house which 
he was then building obtained the popular appellation 
of Dunkirk House. In the possession of so enterpri- 
sing and ambitious a sovereign as Louis, Dunkirk be- 
came so formidable by its fortifications, that the demo- 
lition of them was deemed essential to the interests of 
England, and was accordingly insisted on by the Treaty 
of Utrecht, 1713 ; but by the treaty of 1783, the article 
against its being fortified was annulled, and although 
several works have been constructed since that period, 
it has by no means re-assumed its former strength. 
From Dunkirk, I proceeded to Gravelines, which, al- 
though inconsiderable as a town, is strong as a fortress, 
since the flat country which surrounds it may be laid 
under water to a great extent on the approach of an 
enemy. The market-place is spacious, but overgrown 
with weeds. I observed that it still bears the name of 
the Place de la Liberte, and a street which communi- 
cates with it is designated Rue d V Egalite. 

The title of the market-place is more applicable to 
the present than to the former state of France. ; that 
of the street cannot long exist in any country, for the 
maxim tells us, " that all men are by nature unequal '," 
and the attempt to render them equal has been often 
compared, in point of absurdity, to the labours of Pro- 
crustes. An equal right to justice is all the equality 
that can subsist in civilized society, consistent with the 
liberty, firoficrty, and personal security of individuals, 
which would be perpetually violated by a system, to 
preserve which, it would be requisite continually to 



232 

Lake from the acquisitions of the industrious, to give to 
ihe idle and the profligate. It is possible that the ex- 
perience of the last twenty years may not have produ- 
ced as full a conviction as might have been expected 
on the minds of the French ; but it cannot be supposed 
to have been altogether unheeded by them. 

I found at Gravelines a diligence, which I think 
the cheapest land conveyance I ever met with. It 
runs from Dunkirk to Calais (about twenty-five Eng- 
lish miles) for three francs. It carries six passengers, 
and performs the journey in about five or six hours. 
It is the spirit of opposition which has so advantage- 
ously for the public reduced the price, which used to 
be double, and which will probably, in a little time, 
rise one franc more. 

The country between Gravelines and Calais is as 
uninteresting as can be conceived. The ground is 
shewn where Edward III. of England had his camp 
during the memorable siege of Calais. This town 
continued to be possessed by England until the reign 
of Queen Mary, (being the last place in France proper 
which remained of the numerous territories once pos- 
sessed by England), and its loss is said to have greatly 
afnicted her majesty. The fortifications of Calais are 
kept in tolerably good repair. I found that for three 
days previous to my arrival, no vessel had been able 
to sail, owing to the contrary winds and the violent 
agitation of the sea. Two vessels had been wrecked 
by these storms, but nearly all the crews were saved. 
In the evening I visited the theatre, and was sorry to 



233 

observe, that a sentiment introduced into the perform- 
ance, expressive of satisfaction at the peace between 
France and England, excited much disapprobation 
from the officers present. The jealousy which prevails 
against the English in France is very striking, after the. 
cordiality with which they are received in Germany. 
It seems to be the Englishman's fiurse alone that com- 
mands a certain interested assiduity, which they take 
care shall be amply remunerated. 

The port of Calais presented no appearance of ac- 
tivity, the transports which filled it on my first arrival 
having long disappeared. After being detained one 
day, I was glad to hear a bustle in the hotel at an early 
hour next morning, and perceiving that the wind had 
become more favourable for England, I hastened on 
board the packet, in which my landlord had engaged 
me a place ; the price I found was now reduced to 
half a guinea. I had procured the day before a suffer- 
ance for the embarkation of myself and baggage. Our 
captain and crew were French, and the vessel was not 
in the neatest order. 

Two other packets sailed at the same time, but 
arrived in Dover before us. All were full of passen- 
gers, owing to the weather having been long unfa- 
vourable for sailing. We had on board forty-six pas- 
sengers, amongst whom were several Frenchmen, who 
again gave me occasion to remark the loquacity of 
their nation ; and they only agreed with La Fontaine 
in the former part of the line, where he says, " II est 
bon de parler, et meilleur de se taire ;" 'Tis good to 



234 

sfxeak) but better to be silent. Our passage was ex- 
tremely rough ; but after twelve hours sailing, we 
entered the port of Dover, and I felt great pleasure 
in finding myself again in a country, which had only 
risen still higher in my estimation, from the compari- 
son I had been enabled to form between it and the 
other countries I had visited. 



THE END- 



,-7 



